tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-19054453167712709032024-03-13T08:11:29.040-07:00Adventures of Fran and StephenWelcome to Fran and Stephen's blog. We are retired folk who love boating. We own a 37' Nordic Tug named Tug'n and we regularly boat in Georgian Bay & the North Channel in the summer. This Blog is our way of sharing our adventures with family and friends.
We also love to travel. In the past 12 years we have been to Africa, China, Tibet, Nepal, Switzerland, the Netherlands & a few other places. We hope to continue these activities as long as the will lastsAdventures of Fran and Stephenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13217182448252927451noreply@blogger.comBlogger70125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1905445316771270903.post-23349190909756708462018-06-16T09:02:00.003-07:002018-06-16T12:46:30.956-07:00Sun, Storms, Gale Force Winds and Fishing<div style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<span style="-webkit-font-kerning: none;">We departed Bone Island on Tuesday June 12th and headed northward on the “Small Craft Channel” of Georgian Bay. Other than one work boat and one cottage boat, we had the route to ourselves, which made for a very relaxing run under brilliant sunshine with a cloudless sky and next to no wind. We went about 25 nautical miles in about 3 1/2 hours, ending up in Echo Bay, a little north of Frying Pan Island in the Sans Souci area, made famous by Henry’s Fish n Chips. The route is spectacular, with endless granite rock islands and shoals with lovely wind swept Jack Pines and eye popping summer homes.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">After anchoring in Echo Bay, we had to deal with the usual cockpit full of bugs who joined us along our route. This usually means spraying them to a watery grave with our hose and wash down pump. This is never completely successful and there are usually many bugs still hanging around hours later. However today, something unusual happened. We were swarmed by an enormous number of dragon flies who eat smaller insects for their diet. They had a field day eating the left over bugs handing around Tug’n. It was an unexpected treat. We spent a very relaxing afternoon and evening enjoying Echo Bay all to ourselves.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Four pics of beautiful Echo Bay</span><br />
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<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;">Wednesday June 13th was initially grey and drizzly with some sun forecast, but more ominously, gale force winds (35 knots gusting to 50) were predicted for this coming evening and overnight. We decided to head for Rose Island (13 nautical miles) to tie up at my cousin Jane and her husband Larry’s cottage. They have a lovely cottage with two large docks in an extremely well protected cove.They generously encourage us to tie up there, whether they are home or not and it made for a very relaxing stay while Georgian Bay endured these high winds and over 2 meter waves. We stayed two days at Rose Island waiting out the high winds, one serious thunderstorm and several very heavy downpours. Bright yellow pollen had been overing Tug’n daily and the rain did a better job of cleaning up Tug’n than we’d been able to do. Thursday brought much more sunshine, but temperatures were cool as the west wind came across 55 to 60 degree F water from Georgian Bay. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">A hike on Rose Island</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Wooden boat wreck in cove on Rose Island</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">On Friday June 15th, we departed early, initially for Killbear Marina to top up our dinghy fuel tank and buy a few supplies before heading up Georgian Bay to the Bad River. The 52 nautical mile trip was under clear skies and mostly dead calm water, making for a very relaxing ride. Fran had the slow cooker going for much of the day, making up a batch of chilli while we were underway, filling our cabin with wonderful smells.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">The Bad River, in the extreme north east corner of Georgian Bay is part of the French River delta. It would be hard to find a better example of how glaciers carved the rocky shores of Georgian Bay. It’s beauty is stunning and it also happens to be famous for pickerel (Walleye) fishing. Unfortunately, we forgot to buy worms while at Killbear Marina, so we’ll have to make do with our lures. There were no other cruisers here when we arrived, but three tin boats, each with two fishermen came into the area shortly after we’d anchored. After a happy hour refreshment we launched our dinghy and went out for an hour of fishing. We only got one strike, but the sun shone and it was very relaxing to be out here fishing once again.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Beautiful Bad River</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">After an extremely peaceful night at anchor, following breakfast, we headed out for more fishing on Saturday morning. We had a couple of strikes, one small bass and finally, one enormous Northern Pike. It took us a good 10 minutes to tire him out and then when we tried to net this monster, we could not even get half of him into our net. Finally, we got the hook out with the help of a gaff hook to hold him steady. We are pretty sure this is the largest Northern Pike we’ve ever hooked. After that excitement, we retired to Tug’n for a mid morning coffee along with a piece of Fran’s apple cinnamon coffee cake, warmed up with a good serving of whipped cream on top. Mmmmmmm.</span><br />
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">I'm reminded every time we are in the Bad River area that my maternal grandfather spent a season logging the French River area in the early 1900's. We had a newspaper clipping with a photo of him sitting around a campfire with some First Nations loggers with a caption telling the reader they were eating porcupine. Maybe they hadn't heard how good the pickerel fishing was here??</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Stay tuned for more fish tales!</span><br />
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Update: Three hours later - check this out</span><br />
25 1/2" and 6 pounds. Ye haw. We are back in the game<br />
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Adventures of Fran and Stephenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13217182448252927451noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1905445316771270903.post-20947019395140196222018-06-12T12:18:00.002-07:002018-06-12T12:18:47.174-07:00LAUNCHED, COMMISSIONED & NOW UNDERWAY<div style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<span style="-webkit-font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">After a busy spring, we finally got Tug’n loaded up, launched on June 4th and all equipment checked out by June 10th. We officially left the dock on Monday June 11th for our summer 2018 cruising. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">This summer’s plans are mostly unplanned. We’ll be on Georgian Bay between our home port in Penetanguishene and the Bad River (North East corner of Georgian Bay) until mid July. Then we return home for the wedding of our niece. After that, we’ll head up to the North Channel, between Manitoulin Island and the north shore of Lake Huron and cruise that area until early September.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Every spring, preparing the boat involves some usual chores, such as connecting batteries, checking / changing engine impellers, new fuel filters (I do the oil change and oil filter change in the fall), fill the water tank and start up the plumbing systems, as well as turning on and checking every piece of equipment (generator, heater/AC units, propane stove/cooktop, fridge, freezer, electronics etc. One also has to re-learn how to use the electronics and the older one gets, the more re-learning is involved. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Launch produced some anxiety, as last fall, I’d removed our rudder & rudder seal, propeller, shaft, shaft seal and shaft coupler. The shaft, coupler and propeller were all checked for trueness and a new shaft seal and rudder seal were installed when it was all re-assembled. My anxiety came from overthinking the possibility water leaks from the rudder seal or shaft seal, but to my great relief, all was fine.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Some of these tasks take a few moments and others turn into a project. Our generator impeller change turned into a project as numerous vanes from the old impeller had broken off an each one had to be retrieved from the heat exchanger, otherwise the water flow would be impeded, possibly resulting in overheating. Upon firing up our electronics, several functions were not working and after several hours of trying to resolve the issues I called the Furuno technical help number for assistance. After about an hour on the phone with the technician, we discovered a cable from my chart plotter to the NMEA2000 backbone was loose causing selected data to not be present for other instruments to “see”. Alas, it was an embarrassing moment. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Monday involved a short cruise out to a local favourite anchorage at the north end of Bone Island, called Hockey Stick. The first night anchoring out allows us to ensure the anchoring systems all operate properly and that the house bank of batteries handles the load of all our 12 volt systems satisfactorily. Thankfully, we were blessed with wonderful weather, calm water and all systems worked perfectly. There were very few boats about and we enjoyed a lovely afternoon and overnight in Hockey Stick. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Blog postings won’t be very plentiful this summer. For the next 10 days or so we plan on making our way north to the Bad River and with a fair amount of luck, we may catch some pickerel (Walleye) that this area is/was famous for.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Best wishes to all. Fair winds and calm seas.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Stephen & Fran</span></span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-font-kerning: none;">TUG'N COMING OUT OF STORAGE BUILDING</span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-font-kerning: none;">ON THE WAY TO THE TRAVEL LIFT</span></div>
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LAUNCH TIME!</div>
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GENERATOR IMPELLER AND ALL THE RECOVERED BITS</div>
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AT THE DOCK</div>
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ANCHORED IN HOCKEY STICK BAY - BONE ISLAND</div>
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Adventures of Fran and Stephenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13217182448252927451noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1905445316771270903.post-58391168883267574272018-01-31T12:08:00.001-08:002022-01-25T16:48:57.527-08:00Nainoa Thompson, Master Navigator - Revival of Traditional Voyaging Arts in Hawaii<div style="color: #1d2129; font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, ".SFNSText-Regular", sans-serif; font-size: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px;">
Anyone who has visited Hawaii and cares about the future of Hawaiian culture and traditions will want to read this document. It's about Nainoa Thompson, navigator for the Polynesian Voyaging Society, who has inspired and led a revival of traditional voyaging arts in Hawai'i and Polynesia-arts which have been lost for centuries due to the cessation of such voyaging and the colonization and Westernization of the Polynesian archipelagos.</div>
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This write up gives you a flavour for how<span class="text_exposed_show" style="display: inline; font-family: inherit;"> the revival of Hawaiian society came about after almost 90 years of having their language, customs and history banned from the school system, during a period when Hawaiians were made to feel like second class citizens. Thankfully for all of us, a path was developed to turn around this situation and begin a movement to instil pride in the Hawaiian people in their history, ancestry, language and culture.</span></div>
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It's a long read, but I'm sure you will find it interesting.<br />
Stephen</div>
<div style="font-family: inherit; margin-bottom: 6px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">http://archive.hokulea.com/index/founder_and_teachers/nainoa_thompson.html</span></div><div style="font-family: inherit; margin-bottom: 6px;"><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgapsy2VyLSM0RnYABIHp1zR-P3qWGjfxGMLPVmNBSKuZNdMYHX0qJF8dvr5RY-Q4lRBOp08k_Fc6OllLLCJ706qzsDGhAC3qXKbJvbrLg8knlAPZjD01FTt43_DDt_DqiMZGNdNIWdv6M/s1600/Screen+Shot+2018-01-31+at+10.05.31+AM.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgapsy2VyLSM0RnYABIHp1zR-P3qWGjfxGMLPVmNBSKuZNdMYHX0qJF8dvr5RY-Q4lRBOp08k_Fc6OllLLCJ706qzsDGhAC3qXKbJvbrLg8knlAPZjD01FTt43_DDt_DqiMZGNdNIWdv6M/s320/Screen+Shot+2018-01-31+at+10.05.31+AM.png" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nainoa Thopson, on the Holule'a</td></tr>
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Adventures of Fran and Stephenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13217182448252927451noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1905445316771270903.post-82448986454354425882018-01-27T21:01:00.006-08:002018-01-27T21:01:59.422-08:00Hokule'a - Malam Honua Worldwide Voyage - Jan 26, 2018<br />
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<img src="blob:https://www.blogger.com/d2a2d192-e018-4ae1-93db-2b84739b91cd" style="background-color: transparent;" /><span style="background-color: transparent;">Today we had the honour of touring the traditional Hawaiian canoe “Hokule’a”, named after the “star of gladness” also known as Arcturus, that marks the latitude of Hawaii when the star is at its highest point in the sky. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">The Polynesian Voyaging Society was founded in 1973 with the mission to perpetuate the art and science of traditional Polynesian voyaging and the spirit of exploration through experiential education programs that inspire students and their communities to respect and care for themselves, each other, and their natural and cultural environments.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">The last of the traditional Polynesian voyaging canoes disappeared in the 1400’s. In 1973, artist and author Herb Kane dreamed of building a double-hulled sailing canoe for the first time in centuries. The vision brought together people of diverse backgrounds and professions to form the Polynesian Voyaging Society (PVS).</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3Zkgof_BI0sAKOR-NEuf8w6asr_165A7rWbfYOWTbO33Q3n5ji-G_eJ3Uf7yqxBfHmJ3_dhGz8l_pQvh8aBwzjTqQrgeCGpFh_o7Yq-EStQy5CAkaq1DIkwuTaGc-ftGHqcDXbMIWsjE/s1600/Hokule%2527a+at+Ko+Olina+Marina.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3Zkgof_BI0sAKOR-NEuf8w6asr_165A7rWbfYOWTbO33Q3n5ji-G_eJ3Uf7yqxBfHmJ3_dhGz8l_pQvh8aBwzjTqQrgeCGpFh_o7Yq-EStQy5CAkaq1DIkwuTaGc-ftGHqcDXbMIWsjE/s320/Hokule%2527a+at+Ko+Olina+Marina.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue"; font-size: 11px;">Holule'a in Ko Olina Marina (Oahu, HI)</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">On March 8, 1975, PVS launched its first vessel, Hokule’a from the sacred shores of Hakipu’u Kualoa in Kane’ohe Bay on Oahu. Its design was a replica based sketches of ancient canoes of the Pacific Islands. She is 62’ long, 21’ wide and has a crew of 12-14 members. The successful arrival of Hokule’a to Tahiti in 1976 using no instruments for navigation marked a renewal of traditional voyaging, way finding and navigation (no compass, no sextant, no GPS etc).</span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;">In 2013, Hokule’a embarked on a four year Malama Honua Worldwide Voyage sponsored by Hawaiian Airlines. Malama Honua is a Hawaiian phrase that means “to care for our Island Earth”. The voyage was a means to engage all of Island Earth through practicing how to live sustainably while sharing Polynesian culture, learning from the past and from each other, creating global relationships and discovering the wonders of this precious place we all call home. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQ6cXljjujbc5HOVSndlTgTD2nUgetqFeCFq_eZgoY8jZq91shs5UEcShbToJ04FFpX9J2N1pYyWbGGo-1XWac2perX5FoKDqsyOFc-lnXsb03J9A-zdOuewHtTC8DcuNTKPmeaW1bPGI/s1600/Fran+in+crew+berth.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQ6cXljjujbc5HOVSndlTgTD2nUgetqFeCFq_eZgoY8jZq91shs5UEcShbToJ04FFpX9J2N1pYyWbGGo-1XWac2perX5FoKDqsyOFc-lnXsb03J9A-zdOuewHtTC8DcuNTKPmeaW1bPGI/s320/Fran+in+crew+berth.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fran in Crew Berth</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiotTU5r0tfZOQScDIdrT6E72jNwjLx2Rv2pE46FAIcLkc_COOLfmUfcR_dfRieMs_i-CbRdjaw7_UH_T0eCccDSgrScR2RrS3XeGHSMj2orjI5UAoAldpJYZt5lJZFkzONBu-RM8Tassg/s1600/Stephen+demonstrating+the+toilet.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiotTU5r0tfZOQScDIdrT6E72jNwjLx2Rv2pE46FAIcLkc_COOLfmUfcR_dfRieMs_i-CbRdjaw7_UH_T0eCccDSgrScR2RrS3XeGHSMj2orjI5UAoAldpJYZt5lJZFkzONBu-RM8Tassg/s320/Stephen+demonstrating+the+toilet.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stephen demonstrating toilet</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCPf7Wsetb18LWksG-VXa50v0vD96jBRRDqVL_Ik3rPQC7sOm9y-BO_pyOntZMQD3PM91cZHinJHzu__AyAP2odjJUM7s4pxermSYt4wvob1UPUKgN98fJBryLIvd47hHqTZMmFAPvIMc/s1600/Stephen+at+the+tiller.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCPf7Wsetb18LWksG-VXa50v0vD96jBRRDqVL_Ik3rPQC7sOm9y-BO_pyOntZMQD3PM91cZHinJHzu__AyAP2odjJUM7s4pxermSYt4wvob1UPUKgN98fJBryLIvd47hHqTZMmFAPvIMc/s320/Stephen+at+the+tiller.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stephen at the tiller</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjqyx6vou_H3VAUMOCo-8hVCu0DNUfA2619RlGNzT8mi-0aij3C-MAXTH1D2a4IaruA-Uy2z5VZQnffL9fXoT0kJBZpMfrP_fmycwqHfIDeyk5bhPR-oXrfKJWLJH2tkFWBbHWaO291jg/s1600/Cooking+facilities.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjqyx6vou_H3VAUMOCo-8hVCu0DNUfA2619RlGNzT8mi-0aij3C-MAXTH1D2a4IaruA-Uy2z5VZQnffL9fXoT0kJBZpMfrP_fmycwqHfIDeyk5bhPR-oXrfKJWLJH2tkFWBbHWaO291jg/s320/Cooking+facilities.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cooking facilities</td></tr>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">On our tour of this traditional Hawaiian canoe, we met various crew members. They showed us their sleeping quarters, their cooking facilities, they explained how the vessel is sailed, showed us how the tiller works, how their traditional dagger boards are raised and lowered and they talked about life at sea. </span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;">The canoe has no motor of course, so on this round the world trip, Hokule’a was towed in and out of port. Stars, wave patterns, bird movements and cloud patterns are used for navigation. The PVC and its programs have renewed interest in Hawaiian culture and traditional navigation. One young man we met on board has been studying traditional Polynesian navigation in High School on Oahu and he will be serving as crew on board Hokule’a in the future. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWhx81Vn7b4YDf6hVc3eU65hdXaoTf11Sagl2vJPYEhhmNBKk-LDfnUnU1x1KLM4GZdIGIz4rFGPVGVP25r9wuWgsTxu4GLYg-Yj8T80q-FOxyh86_NhJqSg04EEPY2EJR-mSLqBpXcWs/s1600/Fran+%2526+crew+member+Tamika.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWhx81Vn7b4YDf6hVc3eU65hdXaoTf11Sagl2vJPYEhhmNBKk-LDfnUnU1x1KLM4GZdIGIz4rFGPVGVP25r9wuWgsTxu4GLYg-Yj8T80q-FOxyh86_NhJqSg04EEPY2EJR-mSLqBpXcWs/s320/Fran+%2526+crew+member+Tamika.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fran & Tamika</td></tr>
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<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;">We particularly enjoyed our discussions with a crew member named Tomika Fernelius, born in Okinawa Japan. She now lives in Hawaii, and she served primarily as a cook on numerous legs of the Hokule’a voyage, as well as a quartermaster and a sail master.</span><span style="font-kerning: none;"></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">The Hokule’a has a terrific web site with loads of information to explore. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none; text-decoration: underline;"><a href="http://www.hokulea.com/">http://www.hokulea.com</a></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">There is also a great summary video of their Worldwide Voyage that is well worth watching. They met with many peoples and communities around the world with particular emphasis on indigenous peoples. This video summary is quite moving.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none; text-decoration: underline;"><a href="http://www.hokulea.com/worldwide-voyage-highlights/">http://www.hokulea.com/worldwide-voyage-highlights/</a></span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;">In 1976, Hokule’a embarked on a second voyage to Tahiti. Disaster struck on the first day of her voyage with the canoe turning over. Below is a detailed account of this voyage and the death of crew member, famed Hawaiian surfer and life guard, Eddie Aikau. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>1978 Voyage To Tahiti Cancelled After Hokule‘a Capsizes</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">At 6:30 pm on March 16, 1978, Hokule‘a left Ala Wai Harbor in Honolulu on a voyage to Tahiti. The plan was to document a round-trip navigated without instruments and to test traditional lauhala sails and traditionally preserved food.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">The captain was Dave Lyman, the first mate Leon Sterling. Norman Pi‘ianai‘a was the instrument navigator (who would record the actual position of the canoe), and Nainoa Thompson the non-instrument navigator who would guide the canoe. Pi'ianai'a would check Nainoa's accuracy with instruments and give him fixes only if Nainoa was dangerously off course.The other crew members were Snake Ah Hee, Eddie Aikau, Charman Akina, Wedemeyer Au, Bruce Blankenfeld, Kikila Hugho, Sam Ka‘ai, John Kruse, Marion Lyman, Buddy McGuire, Curt Sumida, and Tava Taupu – sixteen crew members in all.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">According to the Coast Guard report, the canoe left O‘ahu in 30 knot trade winds, with clear skies, 6-8 foot seas from the NNE, and 8-10 foot swells from the NE. A gale warning was in effect that day, but the weather was forecasted to be moderating within 24-36 hours from 8 am. Hokule‘a had sailed in such conditions before; it was, according to Captain Lyman, "the type of weather they were looking for on departure,” to get a fast start to the voyage.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Will Kyselka, in <i>An Ocean in Mind</i>, summarizes what happened as the canoe headed toward Lana‘i for South Point on the Big Island:</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Swells were high, but the canoe had ridden out such seas before. However, this time it was heavily laden with food and supplies for a month's journey. The added weight put unusual stress on the canoe, making it difficult to handle. Turning off-wind eased the strain but it also caused the sea to wash in over the gunwales, filling the starboard compartments and depressing the lee hull. Winds pushing on the sails rotated the lighter windward hull around the submerged lee hull, now dead in the water. Five hours after leaving Ala Wai Harbor, Hokule‘a was upside-down in the sea between O‘ahu and Moloka‘i.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">All that night [sixteen crew members] clung to the hulls of the stricken vessel, huddling to protect themselves as best they could from wind and wave. Daylight came. Airplanes flew overhead but no one saw Hokule`a. .... Most alarming, though, was the fact that the canoe was drifting away from airline routes, decreasing its chance of being spotted.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Snake Ah Hee left on a surfboard to summon aid. When a low-flying airplane appeared, he assumed that the overturned canoe had been seen, and he returned. After a long period of waiting it became clear that it was not so.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Eddie Aikau wanted to go for help. An expert waterman, he had saved the lives of many swimmers in trouble in the powerful surf of Waimea Bay on the north shore of O‘ahu. Nainoa paddled out with him a short distance to test the surfboard and waves. Eddie would go alone. The crew, clinging to the overturned hulls, watch[ed] in silence as he rode the waves into a fate not unknown to many of the people of old who sailed toward distant lands. (31)</span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-font-kerning: none; -webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 102, 153); color: #006699;"><a href="http://archive.hokulea.com/index/founder_and_teachers/eddie_aikau.html">Eddie</a></span><span style="font-kerning: none;"> was never seen again....</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">It was about midnight when the large wave hit the partially submerged canoe and turned her over. The crew was all accounted for and took shelter on the leeward hull, standing on the running board. Earlier the crew had put on foul weather gear and life jackets and had gathered up supplies. They fired flares to signal passing aircraft, but weren't noticed. The crew wasn’t able to raise anyone on the emergency radio. There was no escort boat accompanying the canoe.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">The next morning, March 17, the crew could see the islands of O‘ahu, Moloka‘i, and Lana‘i. The Coast Guard report indicates rhe canoe was drifting to the west at a little under one knot, away from Lana‘i and Moloka‘i and out of the air and sea lanes. Captain Lyman and others were also concerned about the physical condition of some of the crew. Eddie asked twice for permission to paddle on a surfboard to summon help. He was denied. At 10:30 am, however, he was given permission to go. He was directed to head for Moloka‘i and use the current to assist him to Lana‘i. The crew joined hands in a prayer then wished Eddie strength and luck as he departed.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Crew member Kikili Hugho recalls the experience in an interview with Jan Tenbruggencate of the <i>Honolulu Advertiser</i>:</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">We were like hours away from losing people. Hypothermia, exposure, exhaustion. When [Eddie] paddled away, I really thought he was going to make it and we weren't. That's how bad it was, that we were doomed. (<i>Honolulu Advertiser,</i> March 16, 2008)</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">At 3:30 pm, a ship passed but did not see the overturned canoe. That night, however, at about 8:47 pm, flares from the canoe were spotted by the last Hawaiian Airlines flight from Kona. The plane circled overhead and flashed its landing lights, then reported the sighting to the U.S. Coast Guard. Hugho told Tenbruggencate:</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">We were close to dying out there. At 7:15 or 7:30 [pm] we started looking at the Kona direction for the last flight coming out of Kona. The flight left Kona slightly late, and the pilot altered the flight path to compensate. It was a miracle find, a miracle rescue.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Based on the pilot’s report, the Coast Guard dispatched a helicopter, which found the overturned canoe at 9:27 pm, at 20° 53.5 N, 157° 36' W – about 30 miles south of Makapu‘u on O‘ahu, 23 miles southwest of La‘au Point on Moloka‘i and 35 miles west of Keanapapa Point on Lana‘i. It was reported that all crew members except Eddie were still with the canoe. The Coast Guard launched a search and rescue effort immediately, joined later by the Civil Air Patrol, private boats, and a civilian helicopter hired by the Aikau family.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">At 1:20 am, on March 18, the Coast Guard cutter Cape Corwin arrived at the overturned Hokule‘a, which had drifted to 20° 53.5 N, 157° 39' W, about two miles to the west of where it was first sighted by the helicopter. It was decided to wait until first light before attempting to right the canoe and tow her back to Honolulu.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">At 5:11 am, a strobe light was seen by a Hawaiian Airlines pilot about ten miles SW of Moloka‘i and a Coast Guard C-13 was sent to the spot but did not see the strobe.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">That morning, the canoe was righted and towed to Ke‘ehi Drydock.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZnnuHF0ajwNGtdbiGzwh1arQn6C79aigIgn8OyGXICeVlvTV1UPIfCKb5aorJw278lieVF0aOilHnYfUmFEEJ8qi6pjJBEV9Gp2XubCdgnt24tRtPskOop6_m8RnaPx0l4oeC013e_Xo/s1600/IMG_2354.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1108" data-original-width="1600" height="221" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZnnuHF0ajwNGtdbiGzwh1arQn6C79aigIgn8OyGXICeVlvTV1UPIfCKb5aorJw278lieVF0aOilHnYfUmFEEJ8qi6pjJBEV9Gp2XubCdgnt24tRtPskOop6_m8RnaPx0l4oeC013e_Xo/s320/IMG_2354.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Aerial photo of Hokule‘a being towed back to Ke‘ehi. Advertiser Photo Library</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">At 3:20 pm a civilian helicopter reported seeing Eddie’s surfboard at 20° 47 N, 157° 41' W, about 5.5 miles southwest of where Hokule‘a had been sighted by the Coast Guard helicopter, but the seas were too rough to retrieve the board. The Coast Guard continued its search until March 23.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjFzHuwL_Ni1JA0KvxdPjyyZGDBtUIVoQK1BpbgDtm-cPvn8dGerL2OQnoppWqFHEIlnVWpI5bEyI-k7aaIiZPFWx7uNfO-F7Lumh-bZSXh8MomQ9SDVz3QWza2LnSw83dW_lZJ4SEsjI/s1600/IMG_2353.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="906" data-original-width="1600" height="181" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjFzHuwL_Ni1JA0KvxdPjyyZGDBtUIVoQK1BpbgDtm-cPvn8dGerL2OQnoppWqFHEIlnVWpI5bEyI-k7aaIiZPFWx7uNfO-F7Lumh-bZSXh8MomQ9SDVz3QWza2LnSw83dW_lZJ4SEsjI/s320/IMG_2353.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;">After Eddie's death, we could have quit. But Eddie had this dream about finding islands the way our ancestors did and if we quit, he wouldn't have his dream fulfilled. Whenever I feel down, I look at the photo of Eddie I have in my living room and I recall his dream. He was a lifeguard ... he guarded life, and he lost his own, trying to guard ours. Eddie cared about others and took care of others. He had great passions. He was my spirit.</span><span style="font-kerning: none;"></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">He was saying to me, "Raise Hawaiki from the sea." But his tragedy also made us aware of how dangerous our adventure was, how unprepared we were in body, mind, and spirit.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">The tragedy brought a heightened concern for safety to the Polynesian Voyaging Society. Henceforth, the canoe would not voyage without an escort boat with which she would maintain regular radio communication. The hatch covers were made watertight. (<a href="http://archive.hokulea.com/index/founder_and_teachers/chad_baybayan.html"><span style="color: #006699; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">Chad Baybayan</span></a> recalls working on Hokule‘a in an Alu Like program, raising the gunwales of the canoe and laminating wood to make a stronger boom.) Finally, safety checklists and procedures were developed, and training programs were made more rigorous; crew safety became the primary concern in preparing the crew for a voyage.</span></div>
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Plaque to Eddie Aikau on bulkhead of Hokule'a</div>
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"No greater love has a man than this that he lay down his life for his friends"</div>
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A major surfing competition began in Eddie's memory. Here is a link to an earlier blog describing this competition</div>
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http://adventuresoffranandstephen.blogspot.ca/2016_02_21_archive.html</div>
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Adventures of Fran and Stephenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13217182448252927451noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1905445316771270903.post-58160517541865487752017-09-05T17:06:00.003-07:002017-09-05T17:06:25.127-07:00HOMEWARD BOUND - THE TRENT CANAL - THE LAST LEG<div style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue'; font-size: 11px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Wednesday August 23 to Monday September 5, 2017</b>: What a wonderful 13 days we had cruising from Kinston, on Lake Ontario to our home port in Penetanguishene on Georgian Bay. Here are some highlights:</span></div>
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<li style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue'; font-size: 11px; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-kerning: none;">We spend one afternoon and overnight at Milton Island, part of the famous Thousand Islands. It had been 30 years since we last tied up at this lovely, well protected Parks Canada island and it brought back many great memories of our many times boating in the Thousand Islands with our three daughters and our small Maltese named Sachi</span></li>
<li style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue'; font-size: 11px; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-kerning: none;">Passing by Kingston, we phoned Ray and Rachel to say good bye and let them know we’d wave as we went by their waterfront condo. Rachel said she’d wave a bed sheet at us and 15 minutes later, she really did just that. What fun.</span></li>
<li style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue'; font-size: 11px; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-kerning: none;">En route to Trenton, we anchored at Prinyer’s Cove on Adolphus Reach and Green Point on Long Reach. We boated this area for some 18 years and we have so many great memories of the area and the friends we boated with here. There is almost always great afternoon wind in this area and we loved tacking our Nonsuch 30 (Knotty Cat) up or down the reaches</span></li>
<li style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue'; font-size: 11px; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-kerning: none;">We started doing some washing and waxing of the boat each afternoon with the objective of having the decks, pilot house and cabin all done by the time we got to Penetanguishene. It was a great idea, but the end result was only 20% completion. I’m going to be busy over the next few days</span></li>
<li style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue'; font-size: 11px; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-kerning: none;">We watched two great Netflix films that we recommend you see if you haven’t already. “Ricki and the Flash” with Meryl Streep struggling with her Rock n Roll career. “Walking with the Enemy”, a gripping true story from WWII in Hungary</span></li>
<li style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue'; font-size: 11px; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-kerning: none;">A wonderful stop on Stoney Lake on the Trent Severn Waterway to visit former neighbours Bert and Judy at their cottage. We spent a great afternoon and evening with them enjoying another one of Bert’s gourmet dinners</span></li>
<li style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue'; font-size: 11px; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-kerning: none;">A two day stop at Fenelon Falls and Rosedale with Randy & Audrey on “Heart Tug” and Frank & Deb on “Another Compromise”. These are long time boating friends we hadn’t seen on the water for two seasons and we had a terrific time catching up with them</span></li>
<li style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue'; font-size: 11px; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-kerning: none;">Since my childhood, I’ve done many trips on the Trent Severn. For Fran and I, this was our ninth one-way transit on the Trent. It is truly a lovely way to see some great communities, lakes and canals across Ontario at as leisurely a pace as you choose. As we moved along the system, many great memories fill our minds of our previous trips </span></li>
<li style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue'; font-size: 11px; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-kerning: none;">For those who have only followed our blog this year, we have lots more detail about the Trent Severn Canal system in our 2016 blog postings. Here is a link </span></li>
<li style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue'; font-size: 11px; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><a href="http://adventuresoffranandstephen.blogspot.ca/2016_05_22_archive.html"><span style="-webkit-font-kerning: none;">http://adventuresoffranandstephen.blogspot.ca/2016_05_22_archive.html</span></a></li>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Here is a pictorial review of our trip from Kingston, up the Trent-Severn Waterway</span></div>
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Frankfurt Lock in the morning calm</div>
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Percy Reach Lock</div>
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Peterborough Lift Lock</div>
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Fran with Bert & Judy - Stoney Lake</div>
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More Stoney Lake pics</div>
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Sunrise on Stoney Lake</div>
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Burleigh Falls</div>
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Lovesick Lock</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrbHR4dywDFkMv1Bff4YSFwU33Ju6lKkOPmRSBZG-rRDrGs760rnUjjtLay9absPBukpncAq_CosNTNQFyoxFpZJnKa8SOpejBcZbr7NRIaRQxSHd3JlvAy3ONrvxeT8-1rrYUzfCGZPI/s1600/IMG_2845.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrbHR4dywDFkMv1Bff4YSFwU33Ju6lKkOPmRSBZG-rRDrGs760rnUjjtLay9absPBukpncAq_CosNTNQFyoxFpZJnKa8SOpejBcZbr7NRIaRQxSHd3JlvAy3ONrvxeT8-1rrYUzfCGZPI/s320/IMG_2845.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Deb, Audrey, Randy, Fran, Frank, Bob, Jan</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJhVUfk0g0eZkjqW0p3U7v5_VdbJIhklONUb3sgF_58EahrW-SS8WDniB-hiZqcJDh1CZHDlrDWagCOolX72xHoGuj1mE8v6EUkEWMgVZq7K3KlN6LCdR60BJgC1BFsyKzRVNnbpCnvJQ/s1600/IMG_7469.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJhVUfk0g0eZkjqW0p3U7v5_VdbJIhklONUb3sgF_58EahrW-SS8WDniB-hiZqcJDh1CZHDlrDWagCOolX72xHoGuj1mE8v6EUkEWMgVZq7K3KlN6LCdR60BJgC1BFsyKzRVNnbpCnvJQ/s320/IMG_7469.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Kawartha Voyageur passing Rosedale</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipqI3rbk8HhJ4GPZXa-OEXwQ9IgpBS6P6mTeuEvpYz5Nf1jAbXHYea__kuR2BWgf6M2R0LY6JbrQNCI8QCKkeYYlH4Uwe7py8jUkrnvTHRiNcXO6NjRFK1y-WorxeRgtIIB88sT2a0JU8/s1600/IMG_7464.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipqI3rbk8HhJ4GPZXa-OEXwQ9IgpBS6P6mTeuEvpYz5Nf1jAbXHYea__kuR2BWgf6M2R0LY6JbrQNCI8QCKkeYYlH4Uwe7py8jUkrnvTHRiNcXO6NjRFK1y-WorxeRgtIIB88sT2a0JU8/s320/IMG_7464.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Crossing Big Chute Marine Railroad</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI40aRXi0RG2hEb_Mtp4po3PTYfAxoT2GtodkXLbsGm3HlwyDQHd1QCQtMRMVA9TE-C7uCTi2Qut4Gq226cqG9gHeLwWcxNaTOOSvKQruVOgREA0bPRV61PF1fuBGEmeORyaXjSXB-pzs/s1600/IMG_7480.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI40aRXi0RG2hEb_Mtp4po3PTYfAxoT2GtodkXLbsGm3HlwyDQHd1QCQtMRMVA9TE-C7uCTi2Qut4Gq226cqG9gHeLwWcxNaTOOSvKQruVOgREA0bPRV61PF1fuBGEmeORyaXjSXB-pzs/s320/IMG_7480.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Two bears on Severn River cottage property?</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn_q7IFbGeLj5k2Z3fmwXDxs8WuoxqcvNiJaSEm49JruPybrBs7wFeJSGVTZgQSOsCTb4NWnu7FPdoM82XllOvsvLEYbC7aadxdXYJqAnnJsaYf44lWrY_PUpJbth8i3D_ORC15yzUd64/s1600/IMG_2852.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn_q7IFbGeLj5k2Z3fmwXDxs8WuoxqcvNiJaSEm49JruPybrBs7wFeJSGVTZgQSOsCTb4NWnu7FPdoM82XllOvsvLEYbC7aadxdXYJqAnnJsaYf44lWrY_PUpJbth8i3D_ORC15yzUd64/s320/IMG_2852.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Farewell dinner with Bob & Jan at School House Restaurant</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRb5cnQGz3htN2mC1C4ShfzDVKrv1_U6H9iL4KbEydmKl_HncBy-umHE-xTSATLoViOl6DjWp09Q7nVzf80zvCc_F-inKq2SpuLno90616QxHdiWtGlSXR5HYv5aYj1ymiOjF0p0LpPGQ/s1600/IMG_7488.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRb5cnQGz3htN2mC1C4ShfzDVKrv1_U6H9iL4KbEydmKl_HncBy-umHE-xTSATLoViOl6DjWp09Q7nVzf80zvCc_F-inKq2SpuLno90616QxHdiWtGlSXR5HYv5aYj1ymiOjF0p0LpPGQ/s320/IMG_7488.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>The Numbers for 2017</b>:</span></div>
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<li style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue'; font-size: 11px; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-kerning: none;">Total Locks - 114</span></li>
<li style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue'; font-size: 11px; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-kerning: none;">Distance - 1,591 nautical miles</span></li>
<li style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue'; font-size: 11px; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-kerning: none;">Fuel - 1575.5 litres or ~ 416 gallons $1,446 Canadian</span></li>
<li style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue'; font-size: 11px; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-kerning: none;">Engine running time 268 hours</span></li>
<li style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue'; font-size: 11px; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-kerning: none;">Days away 101</span></li>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Total Numbers for 2016 & 2017 (complete Down East Circle Route)</b>:</span></div>
<ul>
<li style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue'; font-size: 11px; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-kerning: none;">Total Locks - 165</span></li>
<li style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue'; font-size: 11px; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-kerning: none;">Distance 3,727 nautical miles</span></li>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">So, this is our last post for our Down East Circle Route adventure. It really was an adventure and it was wonderful to share it with other boaters and to write about it to share with our readers. To plan such a trip and then proceed to complete it, pretty much as we’d planned, feels wonderful. We learned and experienced so much from this trip greatly enhancing our boating skill set and confidence. Also, we are truly humbled when we think how very fortunate we are to be able to have done this trip. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">There are no future plans for other big boating trips on the horizon. We are looking forward to going back to our usual cruising grounds in Lake Huron’s North Channel and possibly another trip to Lake Superior. In the meantime, we have lots of memories from this trip to savour and many many pictures to sort through.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Thanks again to all those who added comments to the blog or emailed or called us. We really loved hearing from you.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Best wishes</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Stephen and Fran</span></div>
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Adventures of Fran and Stephenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13217182448252927451noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1905445316771270903.post-68530178399856714502017-08-23T17:49:00.000-07:002017-08-23T17:49:00.560-07:00CRUISING THE RIDEAU CANAL - OTTAWA TO KINGSTONOur route for this blog<br />
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Friday August 11, 2017</b>: As most people know, it's recommended we walk 10,000 steps per day. When boating, this can be rather difficult, especially if you anchor out. When we get to shore, we really enjoy walking about, seeing things and also getting in the much needed exercise. While in Ottawa, it’s fair to say we over did it. I remembered my iPhone keeps track of your exercise and checking our activity for the three days in Ottawa revealed we walked 48,323 steps. It included both vigorous walking as well as strolling and stopping at galleries and museums. We’ve concluded the vigorous walking is easier. The standing and slow strolling seemed to bring on the aches and pains to our less than youthful bodies. Mmmm, the joys of aging.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">We had another perfect summer day to depart Ottawa along the historic Rideau Canal. Initially, the canal winds its way through downtown Ottawa, passing parks, walking trails, lovely homes and stately trees through dead calm waters at a peaceful 4 nautical miles per hour. Gradually the homes get smaller as you pass through suburbs and eventually you get to rural land and farms interspersed with cottages and summer homes. </span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-font-kerning: none;">Rideau Canal in downtown Ottawa</span></div>
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Homes along the Rideau</div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Mid morning we were at Hogs Back Locks 11 and 12. We had to tie up on the Blue Line where boats wait to transit the lock. Two boats were coming down the pair of locks as we waited. Fran and I were standing on the dock monitoring the progress so we’d be prepared to untie Tug’n and enter the lock when it was our turn. As the lock staff opened the valves and let the water out of lock 11, the usual water turbulence began and thankfully we were standing right beside Tug’n monitoring to be sure she was safe. With no warning, suddenly both our docking lines started to rapidly slide off the dock cleats. Alarmed, I dashed for the bow line and Fran went after the stern line. I managed to re-secure the bow line and Fran yelled I should get aboard and start the engine as she could not get the stern line back around the cleat. As I started the engine, I radioed Wings urgently asking them to come and help Fran. Bob jumped off Wings and was right there helping Fran get the stern line secured. Moments later, Jan called out as the stern line on Wings also slid off the dock cleat and the boat started to swing rapidly out into the channel towards a collision with Tug’n. It was too late for Bob to grab the stern line and he called out to Jan to start their engine to try and get Wings under control. By this time, the lock staff had closed the lock valves and the water calmed down, just as Wings swung towards the stern of Tug’n. With the calmer water I was able to fend off Wings to avoid a collision. We were shocked to hear the lock master say, “Oh, this happens all the time” in a rather nonchalant manner. We have been tying boat lines to dock cleats for many decades and have never experienced anything like this. The cleats on this lock’s blue line were a rather unusual style and ineffective, creating a dangerous situation where boats and crew are put at risk. I will be writing Parks Canada recommending they remedy this situation. In the meantime, we managed to calm down and successfully get through this pair of locks without further incident.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">The rest of our day was uneventful. We transited a total of 8 locks and travelled almost 34 nautical miles to Burritt’s Rapids lock for the night. The grey line docking at the lock (for overnight docking) was almost full and it took a little shuffling of boats to fit Tug’n and Wings on the dock. One boat we met there was a 34’ Sea Lord named Scott Free that we’d first met in 2004 at Trident Yacht Club in the Thousand Islands. It’s usually the boats I remember first. Owners Bob and Denise were surprised at the details of our first encounter that I recalled as they had no recollection of the get together. Funny how the mind remembers. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Saturday August 12, 2017</b>: We had some rather heavy rain overnight, giving the boat a good rinse. The morning was cloudy and humid, with the promise of sun and cloud and possibly more showers later in the day. We took the first locking through and were on our way to Merrickville, a rather short 6 nautical mile run. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">As mentioned in an earlier blog post, the Rideau Canal was constructed as a military measure to provide a more secure route between Upper and Lower Canada (Kingston and Montreal) undertaken after a report during the War of 1812 that the United States had intended to invade the British Colony of Upper Canada via the St. Lawrence River. Thus, the combination of the canals on the Ottawa River and the Rideau Canal provided an alternate route for communications and supplies between Montreal and Kingston, well away from the US boarder along the St. Lawrence.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">The canal work started in 1826 and was completed in the spring of 1832. Its primary purpose was military, but no attacks from the US ever occurred. The canal quickly took on a commercial purpose as it was easier to navigate than the St. Lawrence River. The Rideau became a busy commercial artery from Montreal to the Great Lakes until 1849 when the rapids on the St. Lawrence were tamed by a series of locks and commercial shippers switched to this more direct route. The Rideau Canal also served as the main travel route for tens of thousands of European immigrants heading westward.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">The construction of the canal was supervised by Lieutenant-Colonel John By of the Royal Engineers. Private contractors such as future sugar refining entrepreneur John Redpath, Thomas McKay and Robert Drummond and others were responsible for much of the construction. The majority of the actual work was done by thousands of Irish and French-Canadian labourers. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Colonel By decided to create a blackwater canal system instead of constructing new channels. This was a better approach as it required fewer workers and was more cost effective to build. However, the total construction bill, including land acquisition, came to 822,804 British Pounds. Given the unexpected cost overruns, John By was recalled to London and retired with no accolades or recognition for the tremendous accomplishment he’d achieved. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Unfortunately, as many as 1,000 workers died from malaria and other diseases and accidents. The men, women and children who died were buried in local cemeteries. Funerals were held for the workers and the graves were marked with wooden markers, which have since rotted away, leading to the misconception that workers were buried in unmarked graves. Memorials have been erected along the canal route, most recently with the Celtic Cross Memorials in Ottawa, Kingston and Chaffeys Lock. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">The Rideau Canal was designated a National Historic Site of Canada in 1925 and a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2007, recognizing it as a work of human creative genius. The Rideau Canal was recognized as the best preserved example of a slack water canal in North America on a large scale demonstrating the use of European slack water technology. It is the only canal dating from the early 19th century still operating along its original line and with most with its original structures intact. The Rideau Canal, now 186 years old, is something to really marvel at and it is gratifying to see the recognition the canal construction has now received, shedding light on the brilliance of Lieutenant Colonel John By as well as the sacrifice of the many labourers and their families who lost their lives during the construction of the canal.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Today the canal is easily accessed by recreational boaters, cottagers, fishermen and tourists and many communities exist along the canal because of all these visitors. </span></div>
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Well preserved stone buildings in Merrickville</div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">By the time we got to the three locks at Merrickville, the sky was dark and threatening and during locks 2 and 3, the skies opened and we got thoroughly soaked while tending our lines. Shortly after we were tied up at the overnight docks at Merrickville, next to the dam. Merrickville is a lovely little village that was founded in 1794, well before construction of the Rideau Canal. William Merrick settled here, attracted to the site by its water power, He built a dam to power his grist, saw and carding mills. When Rideau Canal construction crews arrived in 1827, Merrick’s Mills as the village was known, was already a thriving community. After the canal was completed, the excess water once again turned the wheels of the mills and the improved transportation system caused a surge in commercial activity. Today the village still has many fine, well maintained examples of its original stone structures, plus interesting ruins of its original mills. There is also local expertise in wooden boat maintenance that continues to be well used. The area is a favourite stop for boaters as well as cottagers and tourists.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">We enjoyed a light lunch at Harry McLean’s Pub, followed by a walk about town, cut short by more dark clouds coming our way. Severe thunderstorms were forecast and they arrived on time, with torrents of rain, winds up to 36 knots and thunder and lightening all around. Less than an hour later, it had all cleared out and we played a game of Sequence with Bob and Jan over Happy Hour. </span></div>
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Serious storm coming right at us</div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Later, just at dusk, the lock master came by to warn that they may have to evacuate our area as he was expecting an order to open up the dam to allow excess water out of the system, creating an extra strong current where all the boats were moored. A half hour later, in the dark, we were given instructions to move the boats around to the Blue Line tie up at the top of the lock. The space was tight and we had to raft two and three deep. It was all done in a very orderly manner and within an hour we were all tucked away for a very quiet night. That was a first for all of us.</span></div>
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Sunrise in Merrickville</div>
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Nine boats rafted at blue line</div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Sunday August 13, 2017</b>: An almost daily chore on the Rideau Canal is checking the water intake sea strainer for the main engine. The canal system has many areas of thick weeds and it is impossible to completely avoid them. Finely chopped weeds will make there way past the exterior strainer on the hull and get captured by the large, in-line strainer on the large intake hose for the engine. Cleaning the strainer is a five minute job, but essential if you want to avoid having your engine overheat at a very inconvenient time.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Today, we made our way from Merrickville to Smiths Falls, a five lock, 12.5 nautical mile run on a perfectly lovely summer day. There were no ill effects of yesterday’s heavy rain in the area we cruised. Smiths Falls was named after Thomas Smyth, a United Empire Loyalist who in 1786 was granted 400 acres in the present day location of the town. The town got its start with construction of a small mill. When Colonel By arrived to construct the canal, he ordered the mill closed and settled for 1,500 Pounds, one of the largest claims made by mill owners on the canal. The disruption to industry by the canal was temporary and before long, Smiths Falls grew rapidly following completion of the canal. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Smiths Falls is the one location on the Rideau whose lock structure has seen the most change. Originally, three locks cover the 36’ drop in water level. Numerous modifications were made over the years to address mechanical and structural issues. Eventually, after much debate, the original three original manual locks were replaced with a single lock with hydraulic controls in 1973/1974. While many opposed the change as it deviated dramatically from the original character and charm of the manual locks, structurally this change was certainly needed.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Back in May, 2017 at a TD Retiree luncheon, I met up with a former TD colleague named Mary, who had heard about our Down East Circle Route and our plan to be on the Rideau Canal this summer. She invited us to join her and her partner Roger at his cottage on Big Rideau Lake for a get together when we were in the area. As pre arranged, Mary came to Smiths Falls and picked up the four of us for the half hour drive to Four Winds Point on the east shore of Big Rideau near Portland. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Roger’s family have had cottages on Big Rideau for 8 generations and he is a great source of historical information on the area. While there, we enjoyed a swim in the wonderfully clear water of the Big Rideau Lake, refreshments on their screened in porch and a magnificent dinner around their large dining table. Mary and Roger had invited neighbours Matt and Audrey to join us for dinner. Matt was retired from the Canadian Coast Guard and we had a wonderful time exchanging stories about our trip and hearing his stories from his time in the Coast Guard. Just before dark, Roger drove us home to our boats in Smiths Falls, each with a custom cap on our heads with a Four Winds name and logo on the front . Having a land based day at a cottage with friends was a wonderful change in pace for the four of us.</span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-font-kerning: none;">Bob, Mary, Roger, Matt, Fran, Stephen & Jan</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Monday August 14, 2017</b>: We stayed put in Smiths Falls today, enjoying a great breakfast at the close by Roosteraunt, a location recommended by Mary. This was followed by grocery shopping and a trip to Canadian Tire. Later, I tackled an important boat maintenance chore. Keeping clean oil in your engine is of paramount importance to it providing you with long life and trouble free service. The combustion process creates contaminants in the engine oil and the life of the engine oil and the engine can be extended significantly by use of “by-pass oil filtration”. This is a large, external oil filter element through which the oil passes slowly, removing far more contaminants than the standard, full flow on-engine oil filter. As we were now at the 200 hour mark this summer, I chose today to change the filter element. If done carefully, this can be a 15 minute job. If you make any sort of oil mess it easily became a one hour job. That’s what I had today - a one hour job. But it got done and I can now feel good that our Cummins diesel is enjoying a pampered life so to speak.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">The rest of today was relaxing - reading, a stroll into town for an ice cream and some photo taking and not much else. I love these days.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Tuesday August 15, 2017</b>: It’s another beautiful summer day on the Rideau. We are up early and ready to lock through first, right at 900 hours. There are three of us, Wings, Tug’n and a 30’ Oceania trawler, identical to the one my Dad used to own. The owner of this trawler is from Montreal and he’s extremely enthusiastic about his boat, describing it as the perfect layout of interior accommodation and exterior practicality. It’s fun listening to him rave about his boat and think back to my Dad’s enjoyment of his Oceania. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Today is a two lock, 14 mile run out into Big Rideau Lake to Murphy Point Provincial Park and an anchorage in Noble Bay After anchoring and lunch, we launched or dinghy and headed out for some fishing. It was a delightful afternoon during which we caught a few bass, but no keepers. But it was great to be back out fishing as it has been quite some time since we last went out fishing.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Once again, conditions were ripe for a late afternoon thunderstorm and it arrived as scheduled with lots of rain and thunder & lightening all around us. Later, it cleared for a lovely, peaceful evening at anchor.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Wednesday, Thursday August 16 & 17, 2017</b>: Today we did a short 5 nautical mile cruise to Colonel By Island. Originally in the 1890’s, a fishing camp named the Angler’s Inn was located on the island and their patrons revelled in the luxury while using guides to fish the Rideau Lake by rowing skiff. In 1949, US business tycoon Danny Arnstein bought the island and built the existing cottage on this island. This flamboyant character moved in fast circles with the likes of Paul Anna and David Niven whom he’d entertain here on the island. </span></div>
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Tug'n at Colonel By Island</div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Parks Canada bought the island, which now has several large docks plus moorings for boaters to enjoy the island setting. Unfortunately, the unusual, flat roofed cottage has fallen into disrepair, but the property is lovely with many mature trees to provide one shade to sit under. We spent a lovely day and a half there, doing some boat projects, fishing and enjoying the company of many Quebec boaters. I’ve now started on my fall, washing and waxing routine. This year, I’m spreading the effort out and today I worked on the pilot house roof, which gets an enormous amount of sunshine. I had to compound most of it to restore the shine, followed by a good coat of Duragloss to restore it to a proper finish. On the fishing front, over two outings, Fran and I caught five bass with one (Fran’s) being a keeper. It was cleaned and in the freezer while we collect enough for a fish fry.</span></div>
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Sunset at Colonel By Island</div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Late Thursday, the wind picked up from the south causing increased wave action at our dock. The overnight forecast suggested stronger winds from the south, so we made a decision late in the day to move for more protection, ending up at the Narrows Lock, between Big Rideau Lake and Upper Rideau Lake. Shortly after our arrival at the lock, the rain started and we enjoyed a quiet evening at this well protected location.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Friday & Saturday August 18 & 19, 2017</b>: A few days ago, we’d made reservations to stay at the village of Westport on Upper Rideau Lake. It is a favourite of boaters, cottagers and day visitors from Ottawa, Kingston and the surrounding areas. While the forecast was mixed with the strong possibility of rain, we enjoyed two lovely days there. Westport has a great town dock between the shoreline and a man made island just off the shore. There is a long dock along the shore of the small island as well as a set of floating docks and there are lots of picnic tables on the island under the shade of some large trees. On shore there are several good restaurants, a great bakery, a grocery store and numerous boutiques and shops catering to the cottagers. </span></div>
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Tied up at Westport Public Dock</div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">A bonus for us was Westport’s 11th Annual Music Festival on Saturday. What a wonderful treat this was. Nine bands were booked to perform in two separate venues. There was a kids venue, vendors selling locally produced products and food, a horse drawn wagon giving free rides around the village and more. From noon to 1830 hours, we managed to see some of the performances of 7 of the bands and we were very impressed with what we saw. Performances included the Kingston Ceili Band, the Tom Savage Band, The Grace Babies (excellent Funk), A Fellow Ship (a Toronto Indie Folk band) and Kasador (Indie Rock). The highlight was Miss Emily, whose band included Gord Sinclair and Rob Baker from The Tragically Hip. What a marvellous, professional performance. No trip on the Rideau is complete without a visit to Westport. We love the place. </span></div>
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Lunch at The Cove Restaurant watching a band</div>
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Tom Savage Band - lovely setting</div>
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The Grace Babies (funk)</div>
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A Fellow Ship (Indie Folk)</div>
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Miss Emily with Gord Sinclair & Rob Baker of Tragically Hip</div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Travelling along the Rideau in one direction, we begin to see many of the same boats and owners over and over again. So, it’s great fun to enjoy the company of fellow boaters along the way.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Sunday August 20, 2017</b>: We made a mistake today and departed Westport for Newboro Lock, forgetting it was still the weekend. As it turns out, this lock is the busiest on the Rideau Canal. There were rental houseboats with 1st time operators, pontoon boats, fishing boats, cruisers and more, going in both directions through the narrow channels at each end of the lock. Chaos reined. We managed to tie up on the grey line and go for a walk into the village of Newboro to visit Kilborn’s Store - famous with boaters and cottagers for their shoes and clothes. From our last visit 10 years ago, it seems they are now catering much more to women shoppers than men, so my look about was short, but Fran found some bargains.</span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-font-kerning: none;">House Boat Alert!</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Newboro is the highest point in the Rideau Canal system. As of this lock, we start our downward trek to Kingston on Lake Ontario. After lunch, we found the basin on the upper side of Newboro lock jam packed with boats and decided it was best to depart. The lock master put Tug’n and Wings into the lock first, followed by a multitude of small boats. One operator hit forward gear instead of reverse, causing a small collision injuring one boater’s foot. After we pulled out of the lock onto Newboro Lake, four of the noisy, go-fast boats tore past us and on to the next lock. That got us reading our cruising guide looking for a nearby anchorage so we could stay clear of the weekend chaos at the locks and we found a lovely spot at Stouts Lower Bay where we swam, enjoyed happy hour in our cockpit and marvelled at the contrasting peace and quiet we’d found. Brilliant recovery.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Loons: The lakes along the Rideau Canal are packed with loons. I think these are our favourite birds. They are mates for life. When you see a pair with their chick, the parents are extremely attentive like a real family unit. They constantly watch out for each other. Their haunting calls send chills down my spine. These birds are a real feast for the eyes and ears and we’ve been observing them day after day. What a precious treat.</span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-font-kerning: none;">Loons close by our boat</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Monday August 21, 2017</b>: This morning’s plan was a half day stop at Chaffeys Lock to explore its surroundings and visit the Opinicon Resort. The Opinicon is a landmark resort on the Rideau. Originally built to house workers building Chaffeys Lock, it was re-done in the mid 1800’s as an Inn and later became a fishing club. In 1921 it was returned to hotel services and families have been coming here for generations. In 2012 it was up for sale and in 2014 it was auctioned off with the winning bid going to Fiona McKean and her husband, Shopify CEO Tobias Lutke. McKean’s childhood memories of afternoon boat trips along the Rideau for ice cream at the Opinicon General Store drove their purchase decision - love, not logic. Word spread quickly and the local community rallied around to help. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Along our route, we must have heard from a dozen people about the resurrection of The Opinicon and how we should visit it. We also read great YELP reviews on the dining room service and food. We now consider ourselves experts at dining out for lunch, so how could we not try The Opinicon. It turns out that on this Monday, the dining room was fully booked for lunch (very strong local support), so we ate in the shade of the outdoor veranda with a lovely breeze and views of their great property with its top notch gardens and huge maple and oak trees. The menu had lots of good choices and the food was fantastic. I must write a review on YELP - a very worthwhile stop. </span></div>
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Chaffey's Lock</div>
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The original look of Chaffey's Lock (a lot less trees)</div>
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Gardens at The Opinicon</div>
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New reception at The Opinicon</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid_ZA5ng47yKfU4LENBtX-PNeRB-S4_RoxRm7bfAmvA-N3UuGvOEjbNEzMa7sD0AdBboL5fRlzxRQBz7uV5zm8u09-dhSF_4nDEtUbmnpQGT2-zfvhiWdpTAH-L-O0z-k56xUKY-ARcuE/s1600/IMG_2779.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid_ZA5ng47yKfU4LENBtX-PNeRB-S4_RoxRm7bfAmvA-N3UuGvOEjbNEzMa7sD0AdBboL5fRlzxRQBz7uV5zm8u09-dhSF_4nDEtUbmnpQGT2-zfvhiWdpTAH-L-O0z-k56xUKY-ARcuE/s320/IMG_2779.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Before departing Chaffeys Lock, we also toured the small museum in the original lock masters house and saw a fascinating video created by the locals on what life was like in Chaffeys Lock years ago, when steamers took tourists up and down the Rideau, with ladies in their long dresses and men in their suits. There were also lots of clips of the great fishing history of the area.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Afterwards, we continued on through Opinicon Lake and Sand Lake to the famous Jones Falls Locks. I believe yesterday and today’s run from Westport to Jones Falls covers the most picturesque and beautiful section of the Rideau Canal system. The lakes, bays, islands, channels and locks are drop dead gorgeous. I don’t believe there is anything on the Trent-Severn that rivals this area for sheer beauty.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Jones Falls has a single lock, followed by a turning basin and then a flight of three locks. It presented Colonel By with a very challenging situation. The good news for Colonel By was there wasn’t an existing settlement to deal with. The bad news - a very long rapids that descended from Sand Lake down about 57 feet through winding channels over a one mile distance to what is now Whitefish Lake. The contract was assigned to John Redpath (Redpath Sugar). Water control requirements demanded a very major dam be constructed at 60 feet tall and 217 feet wide. It was constructed of enormous key-shaped rocks that were 6 feet high, 3 feet wide and 2 feet thick from rock quarried and rough-hewn in the town of Elgin and dragged by teams of oxen to the construction site. The stones were moved in winter over frozen ground, but the masons receiving the stones had to thaw them to before attempting to shape them, to prevent fractures in the cold. It was brutal work in the mosquito infested area, but the dam was built without a hitch and it is now over 185 years old. Impressive!!</span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-font-kerning: none;">Two of four locks at Jones Falls</span></div>
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Eclipse of the sun at Jones Falls (moon blocking most of the sun)</div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Passing through these locks, much of the lock walls contain original stone forcing one to contemplate the manual labour required to construct them. It really is an engineering marvel to behold. Punctuating our passing through the Jones Falls locks was a partial eclipse of the sun, significantly dimming the bright sunny day for 20 minutes or so. Another bonus on a great day.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Shortly after exiting the lock we were anchored in Morton Bay on Whitefish Lake. It’s a lovely, long and somewhat narrow anchorage with a high, rugged cliff on one side and a thick tree covered shoreline on the other side. We enjoyed a swim, BBQ dinner and the company of many loons who seemed very comfortable with our presence and often came quite close to our boat. Precious.</span></div>
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Manually operated ferry boat (pull cable by hand)</div>
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Manually operated wooden swing bridge</div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Tuesday August 22, 2017</b>: As forecast, we woke up to a cloudy day with lots of rain to come. We were underway by 0745, forgetting there was a swing bridge to get by before the next lock. The Rideau has a number quaint, hand operated wooden swing bridges along its route, most of which get regular usage. After a half hour wait, at 0900 sharp, the bridge attendant dutifully swung the bridge and we were on our way again as the rain continued. We easily transited the two locks at Upper Brewers and the single lock at Lower Brewers. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">The final set of four locks was at Kingston Mills, about 4 miles north of Kingston. The wind was getting a lot stronger when we arrived and tied up at the blue line. The locks were closed as one up bound boat was transiting the flight locks. As we waited, the wind got stronger and darker clouds were approaching. A check of the weather radar confirmed a thunderstorm was bearing right down on us. As the up bound boat finished and exited the last lock the thunder roared and torrents of wind and rain were upon us. To our total dismay, the lock master waved us in and the boat in front of us started his engine, undid his lines and moved off the dock, narrowly missing Tug’n. Bob and I looked at each other and easily concluded we should not enter the lock. Bob went to advise the lock master of our decision and he promptly closed the lock down. How strange…</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">About an hour later, the weather had calmed down and we continued through the four locks without incident and on our way to Kingston. A further half hour delay occurred at the busy Bascule Bridge where the Cataraqui River spills out into into Lake Ontario, as it only opens once per hour. After that, we were into Kingston’s Confederation Basin in no time. However, the wind had since picked up again to a good 25+ knots and landing was going to be tricky. Luckily, the dock master assigned us slips behind the hotel giving us a little break from the wind.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">About a week earlier we were trying to set up a time to meet with good friends Ray and Rachael in Kingston and an earlier phone call today settled on a dinner get together on Tug’n at 1700 hours. About 20 minutes before the allotted time, the skies opened up and a deluge of horizontal rain began to fall in the now 30 knot wind. Miraculously, at 1700 hours, the worst was past and our happy hour and dinner proceeded as planned. We had the most wonderful get together and were treated to a scrumptious salad (mostly from Racheal’s garden), Fran’s salmon fettuchinni & bruchette and Rachael’s marvellous mango moose for dessert. </span></div>
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Dinner with Ray and Rachael on Tug'n</div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">What a celebration we had, as our arrival in Kingston completes the circle of our Down East Circle Route. We still have to get Tug’n home to Penetanguishene on Georgian Bay, but as of today, we’ve completed the circle and that feels like a great conclusion to our boating adventure that we started planning in the summer of 2015. How wonderfully satisfying.</span></div>
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Stephen in Kingston</div>
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Kingston, home of the Tragically Hip</div>
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Adventures of Fran and Stephenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13217182448252927451noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1905445316771270903.post-10496796932965343092017-08-14T19:34:00.001-07:002017-08-14T19:34:34.708-07:00WE LOVE OTTAWA - Our Nations' Capital<div style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue'; font-size: 11px; line-height: normal;">
<b style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;">Tuesday August 8 to Thursday August 10, 2017</b><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;">: With the draining of the Champlain Sea around 10,000 years ago, the Ottawa Valley became habitable. Local native populations used the area for hunting, fishing, trade, travel and camps for over 6,500 years. Three major rivers meet within Ottawa making it an important trade and travel area. The Ottawa valley has archaeological sites with arrow heads, pottery and stone tools from which its history has been traced.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Etien Brule was the first European who passed through Ottawa in 1610 on his way to the Great Lakes. Three years later Samuel de Champlain wrote about the Rideau waterfalls and about his encounters with the Algonquins. Many missionaries would follow the early explorers and traders. The first maps of the area would use the word Ottawa to name the river. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Ottawa was founded in 1826 as Bytown, named after Colonel John By who was responsible for construction of the Rideau Canal. Land speculators were attracted to the area when word spread the British authorities were constructing the northern section of the canal here. Bytown’s population grew to 1,000 as the Rideau Canal was being completed in 1832. Bytown encountered some violent times in her early pioneer period including Irish labour unrest attributed to the Shriner’s War from 1835 to 1845 and political dissension from the Stony Monday Riot in 1849. Bytown was renamed Ottawa in 1855 when the city was incorporated. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">On December 31, 1857, Queen Victoria, as a symbolic and political gesture, was presented with the responsibility of selecting a location for the permanent capital of the Province of Canada. In reality Prime Minister John A. Macdonald had assigned the task to the Executive Branch of the Government as previous attempts at a consensus had failed. Ottawa was selected for several reasons:</span></div>
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<li style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue'; font-size: 11px; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-kerning: none;">Ottawa was a small frontier town surrounded by dense forest, far from the Canada/US boarder and situated on a cliff making it more defensible from possible attack</span></li>
<li style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue'; font-size: 11px; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-kerning: none;">Ottawa was approximately equidistant from Toronto & Kingston in Canada West and from Montreal & Quebec City in Canada East.</span></li>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Lumbering, saw mills and railways were early economic drivers for Ottawa. The original Parliament buildings were built between 1859 and 1866 in a Gothic Revival style. By 1885, Ottawa’s downtown was the only city in Canada whose streets were completely lit by electricity. The Hull-Ottawa fire of 1900 destroyed 1/5th of Ottawa and on February 3, 1916, the Centre Block of the Parliament buildings was destroyed by fire and the rebuilding in 1918 is the Centre Block and Peace Tower that we have today. </span></div>
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Wings & Tug'n, tied up in downtown Ottawa</div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">The Rideau Canal passes right through downtown Ottawa and we were fortunate to get our boats tied up right at the top lock #8 at the start of the canal system. In this location, we were right in the heart of the city where most attractions are within walking distance. Parks Canada recently added power outlets to the docks, making it even more attractive to the boating community.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">On Tuesday, our first outing was to visit the National Gallery of Canada, which is housed in a magnificent glass and granite building, looking out over a vista of Parliament Hill. This building opened in 1988. The gallery however, was first formed in 1880 by Canada’s Governor General at the time and it has had various homes since then. The gallery has a large and varied collection of paintings, drawings, sculpture and photographs. Its prime focus is on Canadian art, but its collection holds works by many noted American and European artists, including a strong contemporary art collection. </span></div>
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National Art Gallery</div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">The gallery is large and we chose to focus on the Canadian collection, including The Group of Seven, Emily Carr, Alex Colville, Jean-Paul Riopelle, Louis-Philippe Herbert and more. There is something quite exhilarating to see original works of art that previously you’d only known from art books and magazines. To the credit of our federal government, the building that houses these works of art displays them in a way that does them great justice. The National Gallery of Canada should be on everyone’s bucket list. </span></div>
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Pics of some great original Canadian art we saw</div>
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An atrium in the beautiful National Art Gallery</div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Later that afternoon, we toured through the By Ward Market, named of course after Colonel By and conveniently located only a short walk from the canal. Ottawa’s first market was started in 1827 by Colonel By. It has a long and storied history, in multiple locations, destruction by fires, moves, re-builds etc. Today’s market retains much of the original flavour as a centre of trade and entertainment with merchants selling fresh produce, meat, seafood and cheeses together with restaurants, pubs and entertainment. By Ward Market a people magnet and a fun place to enjoy the services and people watch. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Later Tuesday evening, we walked over to Parliament Hill to see the to see the Northern Lights Sound and Light Show. It is a nightly show with laser lights, music and bilingual commentary telling some Canadian History. The lights are shone on the Centre Block building on Parliament Hill and as dusk settled, some 5,000 people descended on the lawn to bear witness. It was truly astonishing how vivid the pictures are as they portrayed such things as the fire that destroyed the original Centre Block, some history of Canada’s First Nations, some detail on Canadian Confederation etc. The half hour production brought a huge applause by the audience. The size of the crowd and the likelihood that most attendees were seeing it for the first time tells you how many visitors there are in Ottawa at this time of year. It was a great experience.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">On Wednesday, our first stop was Mosaic Canada150. This is a special garden tribute to Canada’s 150th birthday. It is located in Jacques Cartier Park in Gatineau, Quebec, just across the Ottawa River. The displays are all made of multi coloured plants depicting scenes relevant to Canada’s history, from First Nations activities, to railroads, a lumberjack, buffalo, inukshuk, horses, explorer’s ships used to discover Canada. The works are really spectacular and a large team of gardeners were hard at work maintaining the plant / sculptures while visitors busily snapped pictures. This is not your ordinary garden and it was a real treat to be able to visit it.</span></div>
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Amazing garden show - Mosaic Canada 150</div>
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these amazing pictures)</div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Our next stop was just across the street - the newly re-named, world renown Canadian Museum of History (previously named the Canadian Museum of Civilization). This museum’s primary purpose is to collect, study, preserve and present material objects that illuminate the human history of Canada and the cultural diversity of its people. The announcement to rename the museum in 2012 coincided with its increased focus on Canadian history. The museum’s permanent galleries explore Canada’s 20,000 years of human history with a shaft that includes leading experts in Canadian history, archaeology, ethnology, folk culture and more. The architectural design of the hall is the result of extensive collaboration with First Nations groups and the result is stunningly beautiful. </span></div>
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Canadian Museum of History in Gatineau</div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">The museum has three permanent exhibition galleries: The Grand Hall; The First People Hall and the Canada Hall. The Grand Hall on the firs level is the museum’s architectural centrepiece featuring a wall of windows framing a view of the Ottawa River and Parliament Hill. On the opposite wall is an enormous colour photograph (the largest colour photograph in the world) capturing a forest scent as a backdrop for a dozen towering totem poles and recreation of six Pacific Coast Aboriginal house fades. The Grand Hall also houses the original plaster pattern for the colossal Spirit of Haida Gwaii. This plaster was used to cast the bronze sculpture displayed outside the Canadian Embassy in Washington. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">The First Peoples Hall narrates the history and accomplishments of Canada’s Aboriginal peoples from their original habitation of North America to the present day, chronicling 20,000 years of history, including the harsh impact of the arrival of European settlers. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">The Canadian History Hall is a new signature gallery, meant to be more comprehensive, inclusive and engaging than previous versions. It opened July 1, 2017 to coincide with the Canada 150 Celebrations. We had visited this museum 20 years ago when we brought Fran’s parents on a trip to Ottawa, so this visit we decided to focus on the new Canadian History Hall. As promised, it is indeed much more comprehensive and inclusive, clearly showing how difficult Nation Building is, openly laying out numerous black marks in Canada’s history and then going on to explain what steps were taken to right the wrongs of our past. There is no substitute for telling and displaying history in a truthful and forthright manner. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">The museum also includes an IMAX Theatre where they were showing a wonderful and moving 20 minute film of scenes from across Canada. A visit to Canadian Museum of History is reason enough to come to Ottawa for a visit.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">To complete our day, this evening, at dusk, we gathered our folding chairs and walked down to the Mayor’s Park, just behind the Chateau Laurier Hotel, to watch fireworks that were set up on a barge on the Ottawa River between Ottawa and Gatineau. Thousands of spectators gathered in the park, behind Parliament Hill and across the Ottawa River in Gatineau to watch the half hour pyrotechnic display put on by the province of Manitoba. It was truly a magnificent fireworks display in a perfect setting, capping off a second great day in Ottawa.</span></div>
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Fireworks on the Ottawa River (Manitoba night)</div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">On Thursday, our last full day in Ottawa, we too a tour of the Centre Block & the Peace Tower on Parliament Hill. On numerous visits to Ottawa over many years, we’d never done this. The tour is free, but you have to go to a government office on Wellington Street, across from Parliament Hill to pick up your ticket for a specific time slot. Of course, you are competing with thousands of other tourists for these tickets that are normally all handed out by mid morning. The office opens at 0900, but the line up starts at 0650 (this is a very popular attraction). Bob went to line up first at 0745 and I took over at about 0820 and we successfully obtained tickets for 1345 hours. The gathering place is by the flag pole next to the East Block building where you are met by your guide and ushered over to the basement entrance to Centre Block to pass through security (metal scanner and the works). </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">The first part of our tour turned out to be a personal highlight. It was in a hallway in the basement where there were plaques on both sides. It was at that moment that I recalled my maternal grandfather had served as a Member of Parliament in the William Lyon MacKenzie King Liberal government. Fran and I quickly scanned a series of plaques until we found his name G. A. McLean, etched on a panel for the 18th Parliament of Canada from October 14, 1935 to January 25, 1940. He was the MP for Simcoe County. Suddenly, this tour took on more meaning for us. My mind was focused on imagining what it must have been like to serve in this role right at the conclusion of World War II. One room we toured was the Reading Room, which would have been regularly used by MP’s (pre computers and smart phones) to keep up to date on Canadian and world news through newspapers and printed materials. It reminded me of my grandfather in later years, always reading newspapers in his living room chair, never loosing his interest in current affairs. </span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-font-kerning: none;">MP's from the 18th Parliament of Canada under</span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-font-kerning: none;">William Lyon MacKenzie King</span></div>
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MP for Simcoe County - George Alexander McLean</div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Standing on the floor of the House of Commons, with its traditional British green carpet and chairs, or the Red Room where our Senators meet, helped make the lives of our government officials have just a little more meaning as we pondered the challenges they face dealing with government business.</span></div>
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On the floor of the House of Commons</div>
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<span style="-webkit-font-kerning: none;">The Red Chamber, where the Senate meets</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">For the tour, we had a very enthusiastic summer student. Once again, we were very impressed that the topics she covered included issues from our past, such as Indian Residential Schools. Our earliest governments embarked on a deeply troubling attempt to force our First Nations communities to integrate into “civilized society” by removing their children from home and moving them to distant live-in schools so the children would loose their traditional language & culture and be indoctrinated into western society. Assimilation attempts actually began as early as the 17th century and the last residential school was finally closed in 1996. About 150,000 children are believed to have been put in these schools and at least 6,000 died while residents. Large numbers of children suffered physical, mental and sexual abuse while at these schools. While much has been written on this subject, on our tour, our guide pointed out a relatively new stained glass window in Centre Block depicting the impact of this dark period on Canada’s First Nations and our government’s efforts at reparations. Very refreshing.</span></div>
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New stained glass telling story of </div>
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Indian Residential Schools</div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Our tour included a trip up the Peace Tower in the middle of Centre Block. It was built from 1919 to 1927 and it is dedicated to the more than 65,000 Canadian soldiers who lost their lives during the First World War. The Peace Tower stands 302’ 6” tall. It is a freestanding bell tower whose bells chime every quarter hour. It also houses the carillon, a set of 53 bells sounded form a keyboard found in a small room located midway up the tower. The bells are all different sizes, the larges weighing 22,244 pounds and the smallest weighing 10 pounds. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">The Peace Tower also contains a Memorial Chamber to commemorate those who died in military service for Canada. Each soldier’s name is hand written in a book (different books for each conflict) and every day at 1100 hours, there is a formal ceremony where one page of each book is turned so that during the course of a year, the names on each page is on display for a day. The Parliament Security Services Officers perform this duty on behalf of our government and for all Canadians.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">During our tour of the Peace Tower we learned that each day, the Canadian Flag that is lowered is mailed out to a Canadian. The names are taken from a sign up list, which is now 73 years long (73 X 365 days). We loved this idea and decided to sign up the youngest member of our family, our grandson Alex, who is just 2 years old. He stands the best chance of being alive when his flag is mailed out and also, it seemed appropriate that he be on the list as he was born on Canada Day. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Currently, the West Block building is currently under renovation, including enclosing a large courtyard which will become a temporary House of Commons staring in 2018. At that time, the House of Commons will close for about 10 years while the building is renovated and all its systems brought up to date. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Later that evening, we had a great get together with a former TD colleague of Stephen’s and his wife. Chris and Karen live in Ottawa and have been following our blog and made contact when they knew we were in Ottawa. It had been quite a long time since our last visit and we had so much fun catching up with each other. </span></div>
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A tribute to Oscar Peterson outside National Arts Centre</div>
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Fran as a "T"</div>
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Adventures of Fran and Stephenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13217182448252927451noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1905445316771270903.post-91422711423567745902017-08-09T06:16:00.004-07:002017-08-09T06:16:49.501-07:00MONTREAL, OTTAWA RIVER, THE GUILLOTINE & CHATEAU MONTEBELLOMap of our route for this blog post<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2UYRQ9IYShleuOU2O-9kQtf14ZjKhFh2T-i3irhtmNkdqyoVtCmAYBLl_BjXsjzkB1VIm2ydJXJgEipJVEjEcPip-v4Je2ThtKgfnoAR860N3cHJmpxtT1h4W89906FX9flmNaxzK1CU/s1600/FullSizeRender-2.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2UYRQ9IYShleuOU2O-9kQtf14ZjKhFh2T-i3irhtmNkdqyoVtCmAYBLl_BjXsjzkB1VIm2ydJXJgEipJVEjEcPip-v4Je2ThtKgfnoAR860N3cHJmpxtT1h4W89906FX9flmNaxzK1CU/s320/FullSizeRender-2.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Monday July 31, 2017</b>: Another beautiful, hot summer day greeted us for our 33 nautical mile cruise up the St. Lawrence to the Boucherville Islands, just east of Montreal. For the first time, we are retracing our steps having covered this section last June, 2016. This time, we took the small craft channel, as recommended by or friend Michel on Tremolo II, as we don’t have to worry about freighter traffic and as an added bonus, the current against us is 0.5 knots less. The current is still a hefty 1.5 to 2 knots as the water levels of Lake Ontario and the St. Lawrence are still much higher than normal.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">The small craft channel turned out to be a very relaxing cruise with easy to follow markers and we highly recommend it for upbound pleasure craft. We saw lots of large fish jumping right out of the water and concluded they were salmon. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Upon arrival in the Boucherville Islands, as expected, the boat traffic was quite light as compared to a weekend. Shortly after anchoring, enormous dark clouds from the east appeared headed towards us, at the same time the Coast Guard issued a squall warning and a check of our weather radar confirmed we were right in its path. Thankfully, we were anchored in a well protected location. Over the course of an hour we experienced high winds, rain, thunder and lightening, together with a sudden drop in temperature. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Thunderstorm approaching at Boucherville Is.</span><br />
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Afterwards, the wind died, the sun came out and the summer temperatures returned giving us a lovely evening to enjoy. We took a dip, Montreal style, with a long, floating line and life ring out off our stern to be sure we didn’t get swept away by the current. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Sunset at Boucherville Islands</span><br />
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Tuesday August 1, 2017</b>: Today we had a short, but interesting 8 mile run to the Montreal Yacht Club. When we visited Montreal last year, we had to stay at Marina de la Ronde on Ile Ste Helene as the employees at the Marina at the Old Port of Montreal were on strike and as a result the Montreal Yacht Club was full. So, this time, we are excited to stay at the MYC, which is in the heart of Old Montreal. Luckily, we’d called a couple of days before to make a reservation as visitor space was limited.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">We had been warned that for the short stretch of river between Ile Ste Helene and Montreal the current was about 6 knots against us due to high water in Lake Ontario and the St. Lawrence River. In anticipation, we hugged the shoreline of Ile Ste Helene as close as we dared to take advantage of the backwash as long as we could. For the last half mile, the current was indeed at least 6 knots and it was quite an unusual ride.</span></div>
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Montreal Yacht Club<br />
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Who knew pontoon boats would have 400 HP<br />
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">MYC was a terrific place to stay with its first class docking system, its well used boaters patio with numerous BBQ’s, tables and umbrellas, herb garden and its great washrooms and showers, complete with complimentary towels. After getting settled, we were off to Old Montreal for lunch at Jardin Nelson, a restaurant we’d really enjoyed during our stay last year. During the picture perfect weather that afternoon, we enjoyed a walk about the old city.</span></div>
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The beautiful Jardin Nelson<br />
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Later that evening we met a couple from Colorado on a sailboat they’d bought new in Sweden a few years earlier. They’d cruised in Europe for a couple of seasons, followed by an Atlantic Ocean crossing. They then cruised the east coast and were now embarking on a cruise through the Great Lakes before having their boat shipped to the Pacific Northwest. Somehow our adventure seemed a little tame after discussions with these folks. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Wednesday August 2, 2017</b>: We know this summer weather won’t last, but it sure is wonderful while it's here. Our plan for today was to head for Ste Anne de Bellevue at the start of the route up the Ottawa River. This involved going upbound through two St. Lawrence Seaway locks before departing the seaway and heading across Lac Saint Louis for Ste Anne. As we approached the first lock, we could see the doors were open and a large ship was exiting the lock. We also noted a massive pleasure craft named Blue Moon, waiting to enter the lock. We’d seen this same vessel last year in this same section of the seaway.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">We assumed (incorrectly) that we had to follow written procedures and dock at the entrance to the lock, use the phone to announce our presence and buy a ticket from a machine for transiting the lock. We found out later we could have just pulled straight into the lock and paid by cash. The decision cost us a 2 1/2 hour wait due to another down bound freighter and an extremely long freight train passing, both having priority over pleasure craft. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Long wait for this freighter to get through the lock</span><br />
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Our turn in the Seaway Lock<br />
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In close quarters with another ship<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPFzJtCNWER8F8IXXjBTUW2tc8guKbFI7wb0CHqo73JQ6BIE6MfbgIUyNDpfrQLDya_ACAE_NLl-wyleKgvSXnkq8Vhpp26l_whVKNHuVjMK3rvw4St1JGcqwQsaoQ5lzAE8_BU_PFg50/s1600/IMG_2397.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPFzJtCNWER8F8IXXjBTUW2tc8guKbFI7wb0CHqo73JQ6BIE6MfbgIUyNDpfrQLDya_ACAE_NLl-wyleKgvSXnkq8Vhpp26l_whVKNHuVjMK3rvw4St1JGcqwQsaoQ5lzAE8_BU_PFg50/s320/IMG_2397.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">As a result of the delay, we didn’t arrive at Ste Anne de Bellevue until about 1715 hours and by then, all lock tie up spaces were taken. We later learned that due to high water, the lock tie up space all along one side of the entrance channel was still underwater and not useable. In fact, in late April/early May, the water level was so high, the lock was completely submerged and the main street of the town was also flooded (that would amount to water level about 8 feet higher than what we saw).</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">We made a quick decision to head through the lock and continue out onto Lac des Deux Montagnes to an anchorage the lock master recommended in Baie De Ille Cadieux. This lock is a very busy one and on our lock through, it was absolutely packed with boats rafted three deep. Heading out to anchor turned out to be a good decision where we were able to enjoy a swim to cool down after a rather long, hot day. Later that evening, the sky darkened and once again we were treated to thunderstorms on three sides of us (none directly overhead). We were treated to a great light show, with no wind or rain.</span></div>
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Large number of boats in Ste Anne Lock<br />
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Thursday August 2, 2017</b>: We decided we didn’t want to arrive in Ottawa until Monday August 7th as it was going to be a long weekend and it would be difficult to get a tie up in the canal in downtown Ottawa. So, we chose to backtrack to Ste Anne de Bellevue mid morning in the hopes of getting a spot to tie up there for the day. We locked back through the Ste Anne lock and successfully got a space for both boats on the canal wall. Ste Anne is a suburb of Montreal, located at the western tip of the Island of Montreal. It is the second oldest community on the island, established in 1703 due to its strategic location at the junction of the St. Lawrence River and the Ottawa River. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">The name Bellevue came from a fiefdom granted to Louis de Berthe and his brother Gabriel in 1672 by King Louis XIV of France. Later, in 1712, Rene-Charles de Breslay, a local parish priest, got caught in a fierce snowstorm and fell from his horse breaking his leg on the ice. He was allegedly saved through intervention by Saint Anne, after which he built a chapel dedicated to her at the westernmost point of Montreal Island. Two years later, the parish was established and took the name Saint Anne du Bout de Ille. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">From the early 1800’s, the town became a place of literary pilgrimage after Thomas Moore, the famous Irish composer, who wrote one of his most celebrated works here, "The Canadian Boat Song". The Sainte-Anne Canal was completed in 1843 increasing the number of travellers and merchants passing through the town. In 1854, the Grand Trunk Railroad was built through the town, followed by the CP Rail in 1887. Ultimately, in 1878, the town was renamed Ste Anne de Bellevue and in 2002, Ste Anne was merged into the City of Montreal. Today its population is just over 5,000.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Tug'n tied up in canal at Ste Anne</span><br />
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">During the day, the town and its main street seem very relaxed and quiet. The many restaurants seemed rather quiet. But it is at night when this town comes alive. People arrive by boat and car and fill the restaurants and clubs. They walk the canals to look at the boats. They sing and dance at nearby clubs. We really enjoyed the town, shopping at several boutiques, dining out for lunch, walking the waterfront and main street and chatting with other boaters. The noise level really picked up in the evening with music from a local jazz club and restaurants and voices and laughter filled the air. But it was all quiet again by 2230 hours, so we got to enjoy a quiet evening. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Lunch at Resto Bar</span><br />
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Friday August 3, 2017</b>: We awoke to more sunny summer weather and enjoyed some more of Ste Anne de Bellevue through the morning and early afternoon. We were all ready to depart at 1330 hours when a thunderstorm blew through with heavy rain and lots of lightening, shutting down the lock. Regulations require the lock be closed during a thunder storm and it must remain closed for a further 15 minutes after the storm is finished, for safety reasons. So, about 1500 hours, the lock reopened and by then, there was a backlog of boats resulting in a very full lock. Later we would discover that while in the lock, the freight train that passed overhead left an enormous amount of dirty splatters all over our boats from the bridge and train. When we got to our anchorage, back at Baie De Ille Cadieux (where we’d anchored on Wednesday night), we had a major clean up job to complete. This was followed by a swim, dinner and another significant thunderstorm, including winds of 30 knots with gusts to 36 and an enormous amount of rain in the evening and off and on throughout the night.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Saturday August 4, 2017</b>: Today we headed a further 20 nautical miles up the Ottawa River. We wanted to anchor close by the famous Chateau Montebello as we’d made a reservation for Sunday to stay at the Yacht Club on the site of the resort. Being close by would ensure we got there in good time to enjoy a full day at the resort.. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">We had a very windy day on the water with steady 20 knot winds and gusts to 30, but as we were on the winding Ottawa River, the water was relatively calm. Today we went through the second of only two locks on the Ottawa River, at Carillon. This is no ordinary lock site. Carillon, together with the Grenville Canal and the Chute a Blondeau Canal were built to navigate the Long Sault Rapids on the Ottawa River that stretched for 21 kilometres. The impetus for these canals was the War of 1812, during which attacks along the St Lawrence River jeopardized the communication lines between Kingston and Montreal, the two main military positions of Upper and Lower Canada. The Ottawa River Canals and the Rideau Canal were designed as an alternate military supply route in the event of war with the Americans. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Captain Henry Vernet of the Royal Corps of Engineering from England arrived to head construction of the project. Hundreds of Irish immigrants and French Canadians were used to excavate the canals under direction of a hundred British soldiers. In 1833, the Grenville Canal was completed, a length of 5.9 miles and the entire network on the Ottawa River, including all 11 locks was not fully completed until 1843. All specs were designed for military needs: 134’ long, 33 feet wide and 5 feet deep. They were perfect for the military but too small for any commercial use. Logging became a big economic driver in the region and local business people demanded the government carry out improvements as the canal had quickly become outdated. Between 1873 and 1882 improvements were made in the dams, water levels and locks such that the Chute a Blondeau Canal section was no longer needed. Further changes were made in 1963 with the construction of the Carillon hydroelectric dam and now a single lock of 66 feet in height replaced 7 locks. This new waterway flooded the rapids of Long Sault transforming them into calm water.</span></div>
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Approaching Carillon Lock with guillotine door<br />
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Guillotine door closing behind us<br />
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">This new lock is quite an engineering marvel. Normally locks have a pair of upper doors and a pair of lower doors. In the new Carillon lock, while the upper doors are traditional, the lower doors are instead a single 200 ton guillotine style steel door, partially offset by a 150 ton counterweight. Inside the lock is a dock along one side where the lock staff greet boaters, taking their lines and tying up the boats. Often boats are rafted two and three deep to fit them all in. It takes 45 minutes for the lock to fill its 66 feet rise. This lock is truly a marvellous sight to see.</span></div>
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Tug'n inside the Carillon Lock<br />
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Several times through the afternoon we had horizontal rain rinsing off the boats and we were delighted with the relative calm of the anchorage at Baie des Autocas that had been recommended by a fellow boater we spoke with in Ste Anne. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Manicured property along Ottawa River</span><br />
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">This afternoon was another boat maintenance time. Earlier, we’d discovered that one of our three bilge pumps near the drive shaft through hull fitting, would automatically come on to get rid of the small accumulation of water, but would not shut off. Its float switch was no longer working properly. I’d found an exact replacement while on the Chambly Canal and today was the day to replace it. While it wasn't a difficult job, the wiring was the time consuming part. Once done, happy hour was the reward, followed by dinner and a Netflix movie.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Maintenance job in bilge under salon floor</span><br />
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Sunday August 5, 2017</b>: It was less than a 7 nautical mile run from Baie des Autocas to the Yacht Club at Chateau Montebello but it took us almost 2 hours as we had a brief fuel fill and holding tank pump out en route. As you approach the Chateau Montebello site, this immense, impressive log structure on a well treed property comes into view, captivating one to just stare and try to take it all in. The Yacht Club is in a relatively small basin cut out of the shoreline and it was packed with boats. Clearly our reservation was required. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Our first view of Chateau Montabello </span><br />
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">The Chateau has an interesting history. The resort is located on a property originally know as the Seigneurie de la Petite Nation which belonged to Bishop Montmorency de Laval, a founder of Quebec. In the 19th century the property was passed into the hands of Joseph Papineau, a member of the legislative assembly and then to his son, Louis-Joseph Papineau, who played an important role in the Rebellion of 1837. Louis-Joseph Papineau constructed the Manior Papineau in the mid 1800’s. His home, a highly treasured heritage location on the grounds of the resort, is now a National Historic Site, run by Parks Canada. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">The remarkable log chateau was built in 1930 at the onset of the Great Depression. The first log was laid on April 7th and the massive structure was completed in only three months. The chateau is shaped as a six point star and it was built out of 10,000 hand cut and set red cedar logs transported by Canadian Pacific Rail from the forests of British Columbia. The project was the dream of Swiss-American H. M. Saddiemire who was inspired by the chateaux of the Swiss alps. A Finnish master builder named Victor Nymark oversaw the work of as many as 3.500 craftsmen. To complete the construction so quickly, work was done around the clock with overlapping shifts, seven days a week, using electric lights at night. The church did no approve of working on the sabbath, but by coincidence, the local head of the church was dispatched on an all expenses paid trip to Rome for two months while the work was completed. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">For 40 years, the chateau was a private retreat “The Seignory Club” whose membership included prim ministers, royalty and Canada’s business elite. In 1970 the resort was ought by Canadian Pacific Hotels and opened to the public. It quickly became one of the premier resorts in Eastern Canada. In 1981, the Fairmont Chateau Montebello played host to the leaders attending from the G7 Economic Summit. And in 1983 a NATO conference was held here. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">G7 Summit at Chateau Montabello </span><br />
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">I clearly remember my father and step mother boated the Rideau, Ottawa River, St. Lawrence, Lake Champlain, Eric Canal back to Lake Ontario and they talked fondly of their experience at the Chateau Montebello, so we were naturally very excited at the prospect of a stay at the resort. We were not disappointed. The building itself is a marvel with its enormous 66 foot high rotunda containing a six sided fireplace and soaring rafters made of logs 60 feet long. It contains 211 guest rooms including 14 suites, all organized in four wings fanning out from the rotunda. The two additional wings contain the dining room and ballroom. </span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;">The 65,000 acre site is a retreat and forested wildlife sanctuary with 70 lakes. Its amenities included indoor and outdoor swimming </span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;">pools, an 18 hole golf course, 26 kilometres of cross-country and/or hiking trails and much more.</span><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;"> </span><br />
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<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;">Fran exploring gardens</span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;">Magnificent rotunda in Chateau</span><br />
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On a trail walk<br />
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<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;">BBQ dinner in front of Chateau</span><br />
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<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;">We wandered the grounds and marvelled at its magnificent gardens and flowers. The two pools were being well used and the hiking trails through the forests were a delight. While there, we decided to attend their daily evening BBQ dinner on the terrace in front of the Chateau. It was a somewhat overwhelming eating extravaganza that our bodies are thankfully not well equipped for, but we did our best, sampling the extraordinary number of the salads, grilled meats sea foods & vegetables and of course the desserts. We had some limited success in trying to pace ourselves and the dinner stretched out to two hours, followed by a desperately needed walk on the grounds as the sun set over a cloudless night. Needing more time to digest our meal, we sat up and watched a Netflix movie.</span><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;"> </span><span style="font-kerning: none;"></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Monday August 7, 2017</b>: Mid morning, we bid au revoir to Chateau Montebello and to Quebec as we headed a further 36 nautical miles up the Ottawa River. It was a very pleasant cruise on this winding river passing rural areas and smaller communities before the more populated Gatineau on the Quebec side and then Ottawa on the Ontario side of the river. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">It is fair to say arriving at Ottawa by boat is very impressive indeed. You are greeted by many fine homes in the Rockcliffe Park area, followed by the magnificent Rideau Falls and finally, as you pass under the Alexandra Bridge you are greeted by the panoramic sight of Canada’s Parliament Buildings, the flight of Rideau Canal locks 1 through 8 and the magnificent architecture of the Chateau Laurier Hotel. It really is a sight that makes one pause and think how special this city of Ottawa really is. </span></div>
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Parliament Buildings in Ottawa<br />
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Fight of 8 locks and Chateau Laurier Hotel<br />
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Excess water flowing over lock doors<br />
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">We tied up at the “blue line” where one waits for their turn to get through the locks. We could see there was a small group of three boats part way up the eight locks. There were crowds of tourists everywhere, watching and picture taking the operations of these magnificent locks. I wandered up to lock number six to speak with the lock master and learned they would manage to fit us in at about 1630 hours for the 90 minute procedure. They had two more boats to “bring down” the locks before it was our turn. Excess water in the system was readily evident as an enormous amount of water was pouring over most of the lock doors all the way down the 8 locks. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">We prepared our boats with lines and fenders for the procedure. The lock master warned us that they’d be putting us through quickly and to expect some turbulence in the locks but “your boats are big so you should be able to handle it ok”. Thankful that we were going to get through today and not have to wait for Tuesday, I replied “we will do our best”. We and Bob and Jan on Wings were well prepared, but there was a lot of turbulence and after 90 minutes of holding lines and fending off our boat from the lock walls, we were happy to get docked on the canal wall in downtown Ottawa by 1830 hours. The lock staff did a great job for us. I have no idea how many photos were taken of us, but the sides of the 8 locks were packed with spectators as was the road bridge at the top. While this is the third time for Fran and I to be on the Rideau together and my forth time (once as a child), we’d never transited these 8 iconic locks at Ottawa. It is great to do it, but I don’t think we need a repeat.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">After a well earned happy hour in our cockpit, relaxing with Bob and Jan, it was a quiet dinner and evening as we anticipate what we’ll be doing over the next few days in our Nation’s Capital</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Sunset - Rideau Canal in Ottawa</span><br />
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Adventures of Fran and Stephenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13217182448252927451noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1905445316771270903.post-29298974228809775862017-07-31T17:30:00.003-07:002017-07-31T17:30:54.176-07:00THE RICHELIEU RIVER & CHAMBLY CANALMap of our route for this blog post<br />
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Tuesday July 25, 2017</b>: We awoke to a very chilly 15 degrees and overcast morning, shortly after the overnight rain finally stopped. We had a slow morning, having decided we were only going a short distance for one more anchorage on Lake Champlain - Pelots Bay (pronounced pee lots) only 7 miles away at the north end of North Hero Island. We left mid morning and gradually the sun came out while we were underway. The anchorage had been rated high for good weather protection but low for scenery, so we were pleasantly surprised, finding it quite appealing. We arrived at noon and found only one other boat anchored there, but by end of day we had a half dozen more boats to share the anchorage with. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">The rest of the day was spent doing a few minor boat chores, primarily doing engine room checks, including seeing if the generator anode needed replacing (it didn’t - light usage meant minimal wear). We also got organized to re-enter Canada tomorrow morning:</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">The rest of our day was spent reading in the cockpit and relaxing. Fran put on a marvellous dinner of shrimp scampi on pasta.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Wednesday July 26, 2017</b>: Our plan today was to rise and depart early for Rouses Point, NY (15 nautical miles away) to get a holding tank pump out and a water tank fill, then stop at the Canada Customs & Immigration Pier (< 2 miles further north) then start down the Richelieu River for St-Jean-sur-Richelieu, which is the start of the Chambly Canal. </span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-font-kerning: none;">Wings passing under first bridge on Richelieu River</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgV1Xbd38TdbChDq2teeYCyK7KdD630nHdJtWItuhgnO5P4T6sodm7HzUW6RykQCUoGjaYtrYBJrlwMQiVY8pA5bkwSEjzXORdUSvsyJpVVm9SvVRjS9SKKGSXr3XmhIXHT3nL4Hi8wVeI/s1600/IMG_2282.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgV1Xbd38TdbChDq2teeYCyK7KdD630nHdJtWItuhgnO5P4T6sodm7HzUW6RykQCUoGjaYtrYBJrlwMQiVY8pA5bkwSEjzXORdUSvsyJpVVm9SvVRjS9SKKGSXr3XmhIXHT3nL4Hi8wVeI/s320/IMG_2282.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
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Children from summer camp on Richelieu</div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">The Richelieu River flows north from Lake Champlain to the St. Lawrence River in the Province of Quebec. It was formerly known as the Iroquois River and the Chambly River and it was a key route of water transportation (for First Nations tribes for thousands of years) and subsequently for cross-boarder trade between Canada and the United States until the arrival of the railroad in the mid 19th century. The area was coveted by both French & British colonial powers in the 17th & 18th centuries and because of the Richelieu River’s strategic position numerous military fortifications were erected on the shores of the river. The river was also a key pathway for several military tours and the scene of several battles between the end of the 17th century and the early 19th century, including:</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">In the 19th century, the Richelieu River became an important economic pathway instead of a war path. The 1843 construction of the Chambly Canal was completed, bypassing the rapids, allowing easier transportation of export products such as sawlogs, pulp, hay and coal from Canada to the US. Eventually a network of channels was built which connected Lake Champlain to the Hudson River and the Erie Canal connection to Lake Ontario and Lake Erie. This dramatically increased traffic through the Richelieu River. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">By the end of the 19th century, railroads largely replaced the river as a commercial artery. Today, pleasure craft and tourism have contributed to the regional prosperity of this “heritage corridor”. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">So, en route to Rouses Point, we had our call in with Canada Customs and Immigration. Upon arrival at their pier, all they wanted was the reporting number we’d been given over the phone and we were on our way. Heading downstream was quite lovely as we got to enjoy a 1.5 to 2.0 knot current in our favour. The river is lined with trees and homes and it was a delightful cruise to the town of St-Jean-sur-Richelieu. The lock master advised the best overnight spot was on the lower side of lock 9 (the first lock), so we passed under the swing bridge and tied up about 1330 hours. Bob and Jan on Wings had already scouted out a highly rated restaurant (Pizza Richelieu) for a late lunch where we thoroughly enjoyed their signature pizza. Later, Fran and I walked to a first class Metro grocery store and bought way more supplies than our arms would ever want to carry. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">We enjoyed a lovely happy hour with Bob and Jan in the cockpit of Wings before retiring for a quiet evening.</span></div>
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Colourful street in St Jean sur Richelieu</div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Thursday July 27 & Friday July 28, 2017</b>: St-Jean-sur-Richelieu, the start of the 9 mile Chambly Canal which bypasses the rapids, was built between 1831 and 1843. It has 9 locks, and while there has been some automation applied, the locks look pretty much the same way today as they did when first built. The lock dimensions (110 feet X 21 feet) are quite a bit smaller than most of the locks on the Trent-Severn and Rideau Canals and sections of the canal are so narrow, only one way traffic is allowed. Boat movement through the canals is all controlled by communications between the various lock masters. </span></div>
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Homes along the Richelieu River</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgo6xqMSrF3EbUnxxf-Opuoi6wQ6Gih2_vd9n3GJWr_k5skYDUQ7u4Rg5cXL8bixZGb4B2_mDs8A_ZvGFkxjsBdKONC4Gnb-IiYr0Bj-y9E5LoENpi1gElcs22rtqtrNq6tEu3khE6VVKA/s1600/IMG_2294.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgo6xqMSrF3EbUnxxf-Opuoi6wQ6Gih2_vd9n3GJWr_k5skYDUQ7u4Rg5cXL8bixZGb4B2_mDs8A_ZvGFkxjsBdKONC4Gnb-IiYr0Bj-y9E5LoENpi1gElcs22rtqtrNq6tEu3khE6VVKA/s320/IMG_2294.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Today, our plan was to go from Lock 9 at St-Jean-sur-Richelieu to the top of lock 3 at Chambly. The lock master had us wait until she had four boats coming down her lock. She radioed us to start through the first section of the canal, just as the four boats exited the lock, so now there were six of us together heading through the narrow canal. Their strategy works well as there certainly wasn't room for boats to pass one another in lengthy sections of the canal. The staff at all the locks were wonderfully friendly, helpful and attentive, always checking to be sure we were ready for the lock to start going down. While six boats started out together, they locked just Tug’n and Wings together as the lock did not have room for more boats. </span></div>
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Tug'n on Chambly Canal, Richelieu Rapids to the right</div>
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Wings passes under bridge</div>
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An interesting design feature of the locks was the use of timbers in the lower part of the lock walls with stone blocks on top. I assumed this was to protect the lock walls during the winter freeze, but the lock master told me it was a cost saving measure. None of the Trent-Severn or Rideau Locks use this method and I'm not entirely sure I got the correct information.</div>
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Timbers used in lower part of lock walls</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU_M5J0dS7qZSWPO-KPaZvsAlaXwgHF8OiCv4mKg8LvS4fW6L2TV9jTK8Rzf0CWzQ7w-L4EHUdm3Kzw6QGwebC-wV-Jl6-WsnMn3oItSkNuMrD_FNKOqjDwNu2s70ixxDdczEoOP-vf70/s1600/IMG_2302.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU_M5J0dS7qZSWPO-KPaZvsAlaXwgHF8OiCv4mKg8LvS4fW6L2TV9jTK8Rzf0CWzQ7w-L4EHUdm3Kzw6QGwebC-wV-Jl6-WsnMn3oItSkNuMrD_FNKOqjDwNu2s70ixxDdczEoOP-vf70/s320/IMG_2302.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Chambly turned out to be a delightful town. It is home to French fortification, Fort Chambly, a national historic site. It also has many fine restaurants, overnight docking for boaters and the final three “flight locks” (three locks all together) in the Chambly Canal. We ended up staying two nights in Chambly where we toured the fort, did lengthy walks about the town and its parks, enjoyed a wonderful lunch at La Cochonne Rit (The Happy Pig), had Happy Hours under the shade of the trees at the lock and dinners in our cockpit. One evening we enjoyed the company of Michel and Diane and their son, daughter-in-law and grand children who were travelling aboard a Monk 36 trawler named Tremolo II. Michel had some recommended stops for us on the remainder or our run down to the St. Lawrence as well as a small craft channel to take for the bulk of the run up to Montreal.</span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-font-kerning: none;">Happy Hour by the Chambly Canal</span></div>
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Cockpit dinner for two</div>
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Fort Chambly</div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Saturday July 29, 2017</b>: Another beautiful, sunny day greeted us for our run from Chambly to St. Ours on the Richelieu. Passing through the three flight locks at Chambly is a slow process. The lock master first took a load of five boats from the lower side, up bound first. It took about one hour to finish bringing them through the locks before it was our turn to head down bound. First, the lock master swung the bridge and then opened the gates to lock #3 for us, Wings and two smaller boats. Then the lock gates were closed, the bridge closed and down we went one level. The lower doors opened and one by one, we entered lock #2 and followed the same process for lock #1. After an hour, we were on our way further down the Richelieu River. </span></div>
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Locks 3, 2 & 1</div>
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One of many churches along the Richelieu</div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Once again, this section of the river is just lovely with tree lined shores, lovely homes, occasional marinas and more & more boat traffic. We cruised about four hours to cover just over 27 nautical miles of the Richelieu River to a final lock near the village of St. Ours, Quebec. This lock is much large and different than the earlier locks on the Chambly Canal. The original lock at St. Ours was replaced by a larger one (300’ long) to handle demands of the commercial trade later in the 19th century. Today the lock is only used for pleasure craft, so the lock has been adapted to maximize its functionality with the addition of a floating dock along one side of the lock. Boats entering the lock tie up to the dock and if the volume demands, boats will be rafted three deep. While unusual, it actually works extremely well. When we passed through, we had sixteen boats in the lock at once with boats rafted two and three deep. </span></div>
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St Ours Lock with dock inside</div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">We tied up on the floating docks at the lower side of the lock for the night in a perfectly lovely, park like setting with lots of trees, shade and picnic tables. Parks Canada, who run the lock systems, offer a unique camping experience - a cross between a tend and a rustic cabin, called “oTENTik”. Each unit comes with three beds set up to accommodate up to six people. They have fire pits for each tent and a sheltered set of counters and sinks in a shelter for the renters to use. Its a great way for families or friends to enjoy a camping experience without all the muss and fuss. The St. Ours lock had five oTENTik units on site and all were in use. They looked really great and a superb use of Parks Canada properties. They are also located at selected lock sites on the Trent-Severn Waterway and the Rideau Canal.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Before dinner, we took a walk around the property including a walk across the St. Ours dam to look at the fish latter that has been built to facilitate fish migration up stream. We enjoyed a lovely evening at St. Ours Lock, a highly recommended stop.</span></div>
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Wings & Tug'n at St Ours Lock</div>
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Fish Ladder</div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Sunday July 30, 2017</b>: Our streak of lovely summer weather continues another day. Today we will complete the last section of the Richelieu River and enter the St. Lawrence River at Sorel. While it was much the same as earlier sections, we can’t state often enough how pleasant an experience it is cruising down the Richelieu River. It is so very scenic and relaxing. Today is a Sunday, so boat traffic was plentiful, including some wake boarders and water skiers, but navigation was dead simple. It was less than a two hour run to reach Sorel, where the Richelieu River spills out into the St. Lawrence River. That was the end of the favourable current pushing us along and giving us great mileage on Tug’n. On the St Lawrence we were now heading upstream facing a current of 1 1/2 to 2 nautical miles per hour against us. </span></div>
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Tug'n & a big ship</div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Today we went only a short distance up the St. Lawrence to an anchorage recommended by Michel off of Tremolo II which was through a narrow channel to anchor beside Ile au Cochons. It is a rather unique anchorage on the north side of the St. Lawrence, with what looked like a steel plant on the south side of the river. In between us and the river is a low lying grasslands so we had a great view of the ships and other boat traffic going up and down the St. Lawrence, with no waves to disturb us. On our other side, we had the tree lined shore of Ile au Cochons. A one knot current kept all the anchored boats neatly lined up. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Later, we launched our dinghy and took a tour through part of the local channels around islands in the area, enjoying a very pleasant cruise past homes, small marinas, unoccupied islands, fishermen and lots of bird life, all in protected waters, but with current of the St. Lawrence river. Afterwards, we had a game of Sequence over Happy Hour with Bob and Jan on Wings. That night, we re-watched the movie Lion (Netflix), a wonderfully filmed true story, well worth watching if you’ve not seen it. A great end to a fun and rather exciting day, getting back on the mighty St. Lawrence River.</span></div>
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Adventures of Fran and Stephenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13217182448252927451noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1905445316771270903.post-3770231789040981252017-07-25T12:13:00.001-07:002017-07-25T12:13:25.698-07:00LAKE CHAMPLAIN - BOB & the SHERIFF'S MENOur route for this blog post<br />
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Friday July 21, 2017</b>: We are starting to feel a tad bit guilty about the wonderful summer weather we’ve been having for the past five weeks when we hear from family and friends how damp and chilly it has been back home in Ontario. But five minutes later the feeling passes and we are ok again.</span></div>
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Beautiful shoreline on Willsboro Bay</div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">We had a wonderfully quiet night at Willsboro Bay last night on the west side (New York) of Lake Champlain. This morning, we are up and underway by 0900 hours to a very popular anchorage at Malletts Bay on the east side (Vermont) of Lake Champlain. It does seem odd to be moving back and forth between two States on your boat, day by day. Once we got out in open water, we were surprised to fine waves for the first time on Lake Champlain. It’s mostly been dead calm ever since we got on the Lake, but we’d heard it can get quite rough with little notice. Anyway, the waves were not too uncomfortable, hitting our stern at an angle and causing the boat to swirl back and forth from time to time. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Malletts Bay is reportedly one of the most popular boating areas on Lake Champlain. It is actually two bays - a larger outer bay and a much smaller and more protected inner bay. Mallets Bay is separated from Lake Champlain by a long railroad causeway that is no longer used and the narrow entrance is at the location of an old swing bridge. The inner bay was our objective today and it offers numerous anchorages, depending on the wind direction. Here, the wind mostly blows either north or south, due to the mountain ranges on both sides of Lake Champlain. Today it was a strong south wind, so the protected anchorages were all on the south side of the inner bay. As we soon discovered, the south shore is also where all the marinas, cottages and mooring fields are located. So while it wasn’t hard to find a place to anchor, the scenery was not very appealing as you were virtually surrounded by marinas and boats on mooring balls. The more secluded and visually appealing anchorages were on the north shore with a strong south wind blowing into them. A short conference call with Bob and Jan (who were just leaving a marina in Burlington, Vermont) and we were off to our next choice of anchorage, Valcour Island, back on the New York side of Lake Champlain. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">With each passing day, we are seeing more and more Canadian boats and Quebec boats are dominating the scene. They outnumber New York and Vermont boats by a wide margin. Valcour Island has 1,000 acres of publicly owned forest, camping sites, 7 miles of hiking trails and five anchorages with good holding for anchoring and some even with beaches. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">During the Revolutionary War in the fall of 1776. Benedict Arnold took his fleet north on Lake Champlain to intercept the British Fleet under Guy Carleton, who was intending to attack the Americans at Ticonderoga. Benedict Arnold realized his fleet of 15 vessels faced a far superior British fleet, so Arnold positioned his fleet out of sight, along Valcour Island’s west shore, knowing the British would take the wider channel on the east side of the island. The British passed Valcour Island on September 23, 1776 with a north wind and after they passed, several American vessels left the anchorage to attack. The British fleet struggled to tack back into the north wind to engage the American fleet. A gun battle lasted late into the day, until the British fleet formed a blockade across the south end of the channel. Overnight, helped by darkness and fog, the American fleet slipped away and headed south for protection by Crown Point. The British pursued and a moving battle ensued until Benedict Arnold was forced to run most of his fleet ashore in Arnold Bay. The British finally reached Ticonderoga and were surprised to find the fort well protected with cannons and troops, so the British retreated to Quebec for the winter, setting the stage for a British defeat at Saratoga in 1777.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">We chose an anchorage on the north side of Valcour Island offering protection from the strong south wind. As then day went on, more and more boats arrived and the count was finally about 50 at dusk, with the bulk carrying either a Fleury-De-Lis, a Canadian Flag or both. Unfortunately, flag etiquette is not highly regarded by many of the boaters on Lake Champlain, with many flags being an inappropriate size and location on the boats. The water was pristine for swimming and certainly very refreshing to cool one down on this hot summer day. Despite the large number of boats in the anchorage, all were well behaved and a quiet night was enjoyed by everyone.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Saturday & Sunday July 22/23, 2017</b>: A gusty north wind greeted us early this morning, prompting us to move to another of Valcour Island’s anchorages for more protection from the wind and waves. This time, we moved to the west side of the island, just south of Bluff Point. This was a much larger anchorage and we were pleased to find another 37’ Nordic Tug named Calypso. Mid morning we lowered our dinghy and went over to introduce ourselves to owners Jeff and Linda from Plattsburgh, New York. They are new owners and had lots of questions about what changes and upgrades we’d done, so we had them over to see Tug’n later in the day.</span></div>
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Busy, entertaining anchorage at Valcour Island<br />
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Afterwards, we went to visit with Bob and Jan. Bob had just lowered his dinghy and was planning to take it for a run, as he'd had it in the lake since we’d left the salt water. Also, he’d not had a chance to give his brand new dinghy a fast run, up on a plane, so we volunteered to take some photos of him. After a short run, Bob stopped to adjust the trim of the motor. Moment’s later, we were surrounded by five local Sheriff’s deputies on two Sea Doos and one Boston Whaler with their blue and red lights flashing. One officer pointed to our dinghy noting “yours appears registered ok”. Then he looked at Bob’s dinghy and asked for registration papers. Bob carefully explained it was a new dinghy and despite his best efforts and those of the Zodiac dealer he bought it from, they were unable to register the dinghy in the State of Michigan until Bob and Jan got home. Well, that wasn’t good enough for the Sheriff’s men from the good State of New York. They wanted to see Bob’s identification and escorted him back to Wings. As Bob climbed aboard Wings, he said to Jan under his breath, “I’m in trouble”. Half an hour later, five officers of the law said their good bye’s leaving Bob with a ticket for $250, explaining that this was a serious matter of safety and they gave him strict instructions not to use the dinghy until it had been properly registered. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Bob, just before the Sheriff's men caught him</span><br />
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">While clearly a warning would have done the job, at dusk, the real safety issues occurred with several boaters on Sea Doos (no doubt the riders were fuelled by alcohol), tore in and out of the anchorage at speeds exceeding 50 miles per hour. By this time, there were over 100 boats in the anchorage, but unfortunately, there were no Sheriffs men in sight. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">We dutifully emailed Bob and Jan copies of the three photos we managed to take of Bob on a plane in his new dinghy. Those were very expensive photos!</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">In the afternoon, we went ashore to hike one of the trails to visit Bluff Point Lighthouse. It was clear we took a wrong turn heading to the lighthouse as our route had some very rugged ups and downs. A young family at the lighthouse pointed us in the right direction to take the shorter and more leisurely route back to our bay. </span></div>
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Bluff Point Lighthouse<br />
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">The Bluff Point Lighthouse was built in 1874 and was in service until 1930. From 1876 to 1881 it was manned by Civil War Veteran Major William Herwerth, who died on the job. His wife Mary was given command of the lighthouse which she maintained until 1902. When the lighthouse went out of service in 1930, it was bought by a dentist who used it as a summer residence. Later, it became part of the Adirondack State Park. The Clinton County Historical Association restored the lighthouse and it is now open on Sundays in the summer for tours. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">We stayed another full day at the anchorage and completed a few more chores including some more stainless steel work as well as changing the main engine sacrificial anodes from zinc (used in salt water) to magnesium (for use in fresh water). Your engine, shaft, propellor, rudder etc are vulnerable to galvanic corrosion from contact with the water. Sacrificial anodes are designed to corrode first, before the more noble metals on your boat. Different anodes are required for salt water, vs brackish and fresh water. As you can see from the photo, our zinc anodes did their job well and were just about past their “best before date”. </span></div>
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Our old zinc anodes have done their job<br />
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">It was another lovely day on Lake Champlain with a mostly sunny day. Activities included another swim, a visit to a nearby marina to buy a bag of ice, another game of Cross-Crib where Bob and I lost to Jan and Fran for the third straight time and much entertainment watching boats come and go in this busy, beautiful anchorage.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Monday July 24, 2017</b>: It is a cloudy day with all day rain forecast. We are nearing the end of our stay on Lake Champlain as we gradually move further north towards the Quebec boarder. The wind swung around to the south early this morning and is forecast to pick up to 20 knots so a move was imperative. We chose Nichols Point at South Hero Island, a distance of just under 10 nautical miles. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">While underway, the rain got heavier, the wind got stronger, the waves got bigger and the temperature dropped. It’s been more than a month of hot summer weather and today we are now back in long pants, having hot tea instead of iced tea. We quickly got the anchor down and then hibernated in the cabin, reading, cooking, writing and planning the next stage of our trip with the upcoming boarder crossing, the Richelieu River and Chambly Canal. Each boat does their homework and then we confer with Wings and make our cruising decisions. Both boat crews are very agreeable and these decisions usually take only a short while.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'helvetica neue'; font-size: 11px;">It continued to rain off and on all night and the temperature got down to 14 degrees C (a duvet night).</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'helvetica neue';">Our rain day at Nichols Point</span><br />
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<b>Tuesday July 25, 2017: </b>We woke up to a cool morning, but the rain seems to have stopped. We decided to try one more anchorage on Lake Champlain before heading into the Richelieu River tomorrow. Pelots Bay was just under 7 miles away. While fairly non-descript, it is well protected. Interestingly, the trees on one side of the bay appear to be turning colour already - this is way, way too soon.<br />
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No plans. Nowhere to be. Just a relaxing day.<br />
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Weed harvester at work in Pelots Bay<br />
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<span style="font-family: 'helvetica neue'; font-size: 11px;"><br /></span>Adventures of Fran and Stephenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13217182448252927451noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1905445316771270903.post-81777888458699503802017-07-21T13:13:00.001-07:002017-07-21T13:13:36.494-07:00CHAMPLAIN CANAL & LAKE CHAMPLAINHere is our route for this blog posting<br />
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Saturday July 15, 2017:</b> Today we started up the Champlain Canal. This is the 55 nautical mile route that will take us from the Hudson River to Lake Champlain. Technically, we are still in the navigable section of the Hudson River for a further 31 nautical miles. But this section of the river, plus the approximately 24 nautical miles of man made canal and 11 locks, make up what is known as the Champlain Canal. There is still some commercial traffic on the river, mostly barges being pushed by hefty tugs.</span></div>
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Jan on Wings in one of the Champlain Locks</div>
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Stephen aboard Tug'n in a lock</div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Today we made it from Mechanicville to Fort Edward, which was named after a British fort. Fort Edward was located at the “Great Carrying Place”, a portage around the water falls on the Hudson, used by Native Americans for thousands of years before European colonization. During the French / Indian wars, British General Pineas Lyman constructed a fort at this location in 1755 and it was later named Fort Edward after the grandson of King George II.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Shortly after we arrived, the Fort Edward Yacht Basin wall gradually filled up. We are starting to see more Canadian boats on the system, all from Quebec. Once again we were treated to free docking, hydro and water. How wonderful. While we stayed on Tug’n for dinner, Bob and Jan headed off to the Anvil Inn to celebrate their 20th wedding anniversary. They reported they had an outstanding meal at this location, which was originally a blacksmith shop build in the mid 1700’s. </span></div>
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A section of the original Champlain Canal in Fort Edward</div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Sunday July 16, 2017</b>: The Champlain Canal was originally built from 1817 to 1823. It had 23 locks, a limiting depth of 5 feet and an overhead limit of 11 feet. The canal was rebuilt several times over the following 100 years. Some remnants of the original canal are visible in Fort Edward and we took a walk to see one section of this much smaller canal (see above pic). Boats on the original canal were 70 to 80 feet long and carried up to 150 tons of cargo. They were pulled by mules or horses on a path along side the canal. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Our objective today was to reach Whitehall and tie up on the Champlain Lake side of the canal to re-erect the mast on Bob and Jan’s boat Wings. The locks were well coordinated and we made good time. We saw one barge and two tugs plus about 10 pleasure craft today, the most in one day since we passed through New York. We passed Dave and Judy aboard “Katherine” and enjoyed a few minutes of chatting on the radio and across our bows as well as a blast of our horns. They’d had their visit in Whitehall and were now making their way back to Mystic, Connecticut. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">It was a very hot day on the canal and by the time we passed through lock #12, we were ready for a break and refreshment. As we looked around, the public tie up wall no longer existed. There was a modest looking marina there in its place and with no breeze, it did not look very inviting. So, after a quick radio conference with Wings, we decided to head on further to an anchorage near Fort Ticonderoga, a further 14 nautical miles. It was a very pleasant cruise down the relatively narrow southern end of Lake Champlain. As it gradually widened to about 1/2 a mile, the fort came into view and we anchored just to the south of it. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">The water had cleared up tremendously from the sediment colour of the Hudson River and Champlain Canal and our first order of business was taking a swim. It is hard to put into words the sheer joy of being able to dive into aqua green fresh water off the stern of your boat on a sweltering hot day. While cooling off, I took a brush and gave the water line a light scrub to remove the leftover markings from the river and canal. Wonderful, just wonderful. Some ice cold white wine followed by a BBQ’d dinner and another swim finished off a great day. While we missed out on exploring Whitehall, we had a great consolation prize.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Monday July 17, 2017</b>: After breakfast, we rafted up with Wings and helped Bob and Jan re-erect their mast. Afterwards, we had a leisurely cruise northward on Lake Champlain. The lower section of Lake Champlain is really quite narrow, but the rolling, tree covered hills on both sides makes it look very scenic and attractive. We were making use of a cruising guide given to us by Bob and Jan, which had rated anchorages in terms of their protection from weather and scenic appeal. From it, we’d chosen Cole Bay as our destination, about a 19 nautical mile run under beautiful sunshine, calm water and hot summer temperatures. As we approached our anchorage, ominous dark clouds were rapidly approaching. I checked the weather radar on my iPhone and determined the rain and thunderstorm would start just minutes after we’d anchored, so we hustled right in and anchored quickly. Right on cue, the thunderstorm started, the temperature plummeted and the rain started. Rain, lightning and thunder continued for more than three hours and it took a few more hours for the sky to finally clear up and the sun to re-emerge. In the evening, the wind picked up from the south and was quite a bit stronger than forecast, resulting in a rather bouncy night at anchor, but we seem to be getting used to the sound of wave slap on the hull.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Tuesday July 18, 2017</b>: Another beautiful summer day emerged with the sun rise. We are mostly getting up by 0600, energized by the bright sunshine through our port holes. We were underway by 0900 for one of the next highly recommended anchorages called Kingsland Bay, a relatively short run of only 9 nautical miles. It was a beautiful spot with a state park on one side, one particularly lovely home / property and a small beach on another side. The hilly shoreline was blanketed with lovely forest. After anchoring, I began the long overdue chore of cleaning the dinghy and applying a protective coating on the inflatable tubes to protect them from the UV. After lunch, we took a dinghy ride to a nearby marina to buy a bag of ice and see what else they had in their “Ships Store”. Skimming across the water at 16 MPH, feeling the wind rush through your hair on a hot summers day - what a joy. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">The wind died in the afternoon and the temperature rose. We were in the water for a dip every hour or so to cool down. We really have been blessed with magnificent summer weather for about four weeks now. </span></div>
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Kingsbay anchorage</div>
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One of many dips</div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Lake Champlain is a unique body of water. It is part of the Champlain Valley, which is part of a larger landform known as the Great Appalachian Valley which stretches from Quebec in the north to Alabama in the south. The lake drains north, through the Richelieu River to the St Lawrence Seaway.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">The region’s original Native inhabitants used the lake as a means of transportation. Early European explorers used it as a route into the new continent. It was of course named after explorer Samuel de Champlain who discovered it in 1609. Many naval battles were fought on the lake in its colonial period. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Vermont, New York and Quebec share the shoreline of this 490 square mile lake with a shoreline of over 500 miles and a length of 125 miles. There are over 70 islands on the lake, ranging from 13 miles long to some as small as oversized rocks. The water is clear and deep with many areas having depths of 200 feet or more and one area has a charted depth of 399 feet. The west shoreline is dominated by the Adirondack Mountains (New York side) and if one uses imagination, you could easily think you were cruising the west coast of Canada. The shoreline has seen little development and has many fine anchorages for the gunk holing boater. In fact, the scenic shoreline and wonderful anchorages result in this being just about one of the finest cruising areas we’ve seen.</span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-font-kerning: none;">One of 70 islands on Lake Champlain (looks like a moose?)</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Wednesday July 19, 2017</b>: A new summer day, a new anchorage! We only moved 3 nautical miles and found ourselves in another lovely, all-weather anchorage called Converse Bay. This good sized anchorage had a lovely wooded shoreline, plus several islands providing protection and great scenery. The morning was devoted to some more chores, the primary one being the anchor locker. Our anchor chain had spent a lot of time in salt water and it looked and felt rather cruddy. So, after we were well anchored, I let out all 175 feet of chain so it could soak and rinse off in the fresh water while I gave the anchor locker a good scrub and rinse. </span></div>
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Views of the Appalachian Mountains from our anchorage</div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Later, I used Bartender’s Friend (a stainless steel cleaner) to spot clean a small number of areas where the salt water had caused some minor rust stains. Afterwards, I polished the shiny stainless with a marine stainless steel polish. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">The day was getting good and hot again, so the rest of the time was spent relaxing, reading, taking regular dips in the lake and watching other boats come and go from the anchorage. Bob and Jan from Wings had spent the previous day and overnight in the nearby town of Vergennes and joined us in Converse Bay this afternoon. At one particularly hot point in the day, Fran and I swam some 500 feet over to their boat for a visit and some exercise - and then back to Tug’n. </span></div>
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Magnificent sunset at Converse Bay</div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Thursday July 20, 2017</b>: Today, we backtracked a short distance to fuel up at Point Bay Marina, who offered a particularly good price on diesel, before we headed off to Burlington, Vermont.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Burlington is the largest city in Vermont with a population of a little over 42,000. It is home to the University of Vermont, Champlain College and Vermont’s largest hospital, the UVM Medical Centre. In 2015, Burlington become the first city in the US to run completely on renewable energy. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">The town’s position on the east shore of Lake Champlain helped it develop into a port of entry and centre for trade, particularly after completion of the Champlain Canal in 1823, the Erie Canal in 1825 and the Chambly Canal 1843. Burlington became a bustling lumbering and manufacturing centre. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">In 1978, the ice cream enterprise Ben & Jerry’s was founded in Burlington in a renovated gas station and it went on to become a national brand (and one of our favourites).</span></div>
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Burlington's waterfront</div>
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Wearing my Canada 150 T-Shirt in Burlington</div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Due to the summer heat and the wonderful cruising area we were in, our stay in Burlington was brief. We spent three hours there, going for lunch at Gaku Ramen to address a need for Asian food, followed by grocery shopping. Then we were off to another anchorage named Willsboro Bay. It is a unique, fjord-like body of water whose western shore has very deep water, matched by very high, rugged cliffs. The southeast end of the bay is almost the only area one can anchor due to its shallower water. It offers a stunning view of the western shoreline and mountains and that alone was reason enough to visit and anchor there for the night. We swam, enjoyed happy hour in the cockpit, followed by a southwest chicken salad for dinner (one of my favourite meals on a hot summer day. The end of another great day that puts a smile on your face when you fall asleep. </span></div>
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Sunset over the Appalachian Mountains<br />
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Adventures of Fran and Stephenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13217182448252927451noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1905445316771270903.post-36774144008554182962017-07-17T07:49:00.003-07:002017-07-17T07:49:44.520-07:00CRUISING THE Hudson River<div style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Helvetica; line-height: normal;">
<span style="-webkit-font-kerning: none;">Here is our route covered by this blog post</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqp_nh-EJPJCqtYSnjZtr7qdstUCTLmi1WIjBwswzlM8suT9a_7ZAK0gaEHpu5S4M4rEjCHgyz1lmojEew36XrsGK3iXrNe6wMKpVr87DxR_DPGVbTvTe_1LjsUUknhJpAxhaZYNlFOjU/s1600/IMG_2214.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="210" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqp_nh-EJPJCqtYSnjZtr7qdstUCTLmi1WIjBwswzlM8suT9a_7ZAK0gaEHpu5S4M4rEjCHgyz1lmojEew36XrsGK3iXrNe6wMKpVr87DxR_DPGVbTvTe_1LjsUUknhJpAxhaZYNlFOjU/s320/IMG_2214.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">The Hudson River was inhabited by native hunters and gathers going back nearly 8,000. Archeologists have found sites with artifacts in numerous locations along the river showing evidence of their existence. Some 1,000 to 2,000 years ago, these native groups started cultivating crops including corn, squash, beans and tobacco and they established semi-permanent settlements along the Hudson River.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">In the summer of 1609, Samuel de Champlain was exploring the St. Lawrence River. He travelled up the Richelieu River with a party of Algonquins and Hurons, agreeing to help these two tribes in their campaign against their enemy, the Iroquois. For Champlain, providing this support helped secure a fur trade deal. Champlain was the first recorded European to see Lake Champlain. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Meanwhile, British explorer Henry Hudson, in the employ of the Dutch East India Company, was heading up the eastern seaboard from Virginia. There is an absolutely fascinating coincidence here. Less than 2 months after Champlain reached the south end of Lake Champlain, Henry Hudson reached the northern most point of his exploration on the Hudson River, reaching an area now called Albany. These two explorers were less than two days travel apart.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Not only was the Hudson River a heavily travelled route for trade between native tribes and between the native tribes and the French, English and Dutch, it was also the route used for many significant battles including battles between native groups, battles between the English and French for their colonial objectives as well as battles between the colonies and the British as the colonials sought to obtain independence etc. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Heading upstream on the Hudson River, there are many areas where there is no development in sight and it is quite easy to imagine native groups paddling up and down the river, or European explorers making their way up the river in their search for a short cut to Asia. Those who came long before us would be mightily shocked to see how we navigate the river today. Pleasure craft, commercial barges with powerful tugs pushing them along, or the occasional ocean going vessels make their way up and down the river daily. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Sunday July 9, 2017</b>: This morning, after a noisy night at anchor with lots of freight train traffic right next to our anchorage at Stoney Point on the Hudson River, we raised anchor and back tracked a mile to fuel up at Panco Fuel Dock. It is reportedly the best deal for diesel on the river, and indeed, at $2.59 per gallon for our 165 gallon purchase, we were very pleased. Then we continued our upstream trip, aided by a 1 to 1.5 knot tidal current pushing us along. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">While underway, approaching the Bear Mountain Bridge, we heard a call on the VHF marine radio to the “three boats approaching Bear Mountain Bridge”. This was a dive boat who seemed to think we were a police boat and they were calling the police to advise they were ready to “dive for the body”. I did a Google query only to discover that this is a very popular bridge for folks to jump from to end their lives. Very sad…</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">We continued a relatively short distance to Pollepel Island to anchor for the night. This island was made famous by the construction of Bannerman’s Castle in the early 1900’s. An eccentric Scot named Francis Bannerman became a dealer in military surplus. He bought this island on the Hudson and built a castle and other structures on the island to store his growing arsenal of munitions and military equipment. </span></div>
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Banneman's Castle</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTYB-pscn3Zx6sS75pqYoVU45J71JPL0jopLVK2S4iUZAifNLnzRGW4jTiTziMWrYHAsamMZbgCRfeUeeOfhCS8MUosOzzjodrTGPqxFiFEYG9G_8dF2nLEXbRcyldKQ6keQcwR8DyqaQ/s1600/IMG_2179.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTYB-pscn3Zx6sS75pqYoVU45J71JPL0jopLVK2S4iUZAifNLnzRGW4jTiTziMWrYHAsamMZbgCRfeUeeOfhCS8MUosOzzjodrTGPqxFiFEYG9G_8dF2nLEXbRcyldKQ6keQcwR8DyqaQ/s320/IMG_2179.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj69kJnApP7JqJNZ2bid8ph4pVFWFWBGtPDvOC0VomMwBhC0URzd3f6yAucoUrrCg5nJMTEOC4ctSOlZJU0QyGmH2hsRgLHEKrcI9xfdVNO7FSpWa2rAMsOXmBatnqdPgZw48CoxKO4W50/s1600/IMG_6546.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj69kJnApP7JqJNZ2bid8ph4pVFWFWBGtPDvOC0VomMwBhC0URzd3f6yAucoUrrCg5nJMTEOC4ctSOlZJU0QyGmH2hsRgLHEKrcI9xfdVNO7FSpWa2rAMsOXmBatnqdPgZw48CoxKO4W50/s320/IMG_6546.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Business shrank later in the 20th century due to increased government regulations and restrictions. Francis Bannerman died in 1918 and his castle was partially destroyed in 1920 when 200 tons of shells and gun powder exploded in an ancillary building. The property lay vacant for many years, finally being purchased by the State of New York in 1967. The military equipment was all removed and briefly, tours of the island were offered. Fire, vandalism and neglect left the castle in ruins. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">However, this island certainly provided an interesting backdrop for our anchorage today. We had a perfectly relaxing afternoon and evening on a glorious summer day.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Monday July 10, 2017</b>: Today we headed a further 29 nautical miles up the Hudson River to Kingston, New York where we took a dock at the Kingston City Marina so we could explore the town. To get there before noon, we left at 0700 hours and had a current against us for a few hours before the flood tide turned in our favour. Surprisingly, there has been very little boat traffic on the Hudson River so far. However, there has been an abundance of train traffic - freight trains on the west side of the river and commuter trains on the east side. One particularly long and impressive freight train had 138 cars and three engines. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Cruising up the Hudson River has been particularly relaxing with the calm water on the river and the backdrop of rolling hills, forests and small communities making for a particularly scenic trip. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">In Kingston, we headed to a particularly well rated restaurant with a name that resonated with us - “Ship to Shore”. What an absolutely delightful spot, filled with character, a great menu and friendly, helpful staff. For example, when Jan asked where a post office was so she could mail a letter, our waiter said, just hold on to it for 5 minutes and our postman will be in the restaurant shortly; he will take your letter for you. Sure enough, in a few short minutes a friendly post man was there. The food lived up to its reputation - we absolutely loved it.</span></div>
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Lunch at Ship to Shore</div>
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Fran aboard Tug'n in Kingston NY</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqIG6yxtaD_xqLybOBgVhVTg_MSinqb8nbBIT0VHc-jBV51Jkr-MsqMdcgxe5kyd8T2-oiwWIgZGOAYckWollSB1e7ZMNOO5XkVzJPlIoyTQOLnUK145CD02uMegmLGYWXt2ufno4Ht9w/s1600/IMG_7010.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqIG6yxtaD_xqLybOBgVhVTg_MSinqb8nbBIT0VHc-jBV51Jkr-MsqMdcgxe5kyd8T2-oiwWIgZGOAYckWollSB1e7ZMNOO5XkVzJPlIoyTQOLnUK145CD02uMegmLGYWXt2ufno4Ht9w/s320/IMG_7010.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Later, we explored a small, but interesting Museum of the Hudson River. It had </span></div>
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<li style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 11px; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-kerning: none;">history of the original native inhabitants of the valley and how they used it as a resource for their day to day lives</span></li>
<li style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 11px; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-kerning: none;">information on the European explorers who first visited the area</span></li>
<li style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 11px; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-kerning: none;">for more modern history, there were great photos and write ups on the glorious days of the paddle wheeler ships that took wealthy folk on river cruises. These vessels had huge ball rooms, great dining rooms and luxury accommodations and each ship tried to outdo the competition in its offering</span></li>
<li style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 11px; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-kerning: none;">Poughkeepsie was the site of ice boat regattas for many years where the worlds best and fasted met to compete. There was a wonderful video of interviews of older folk who recalled the days of racing along the frozen river trying to keep up to or even pass the commuter trains that could reach speeds of 70 miles per hour</span></li>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">It was really quite a marvellous little museum to visit.</span></div>
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Ice boats on the Hudson</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3Z_0G-IuBZLXZ5pK3Xh2HjHRanc1gZLrJCOxsFGbmrV6kCAwwdob59COiwkXBtsylCmByLcJyxR3LLvVA3aJQ_jle9Kcn9-40u5FehXNDBRbvI9v3cSMYqaBefEr-Z5zNQQv2DMhx6ss/s1600/IMG_7001.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3Z_0G-IuBZLXZ5pK3Xh2HjHRanc1gZLrJCOxsFGbmrV6kCAwwdob59COiwkXBtsylCmByLcJyxR3LLvVA3aJQ_jle9Kcn9-40u5FehXNDBRbvI9v3cSMYqaBefEr-Z5zNQQv2DMhx6ss/s320/IMG_7001.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Luxury paddle wheelers on the Hudson</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXpUIu82-va2RP4mnLKZP1Lv2xcu_O5CnjZQNxPhIIaI82AmxMjw7aPtuumveA24bdjTU7vIBzhNzDXIZNamIy5tdCEVjEpd2nW-QWLsYhiAuQoy6v3TGQeTTdc2wsad5KNT6pWj_RvXo/s1600/IMG_6996.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXpUIu82-va2RP4mnLKZP1Lv2xcu_O5CnjZQNxPhIIaI82AmxMjw7aPtuumveA24bdjTU7vIBzhNzDXIZNamIy5tdCEVjEpd2nW-QWLsYhiAuQoy6v3TGQeTTdc2wsad5KNT6pWj_RvXo/s320/IMG_6996.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Advertisement for luxury paddle wheelers</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlufvG1OoKUy-cFbRkFuxy0ZDwMt7230brS8oGS_VeyIeQqGL-nUX21ZU8DVuKfASJGe6fPuzj3i2RUywetivissY4437_KSUUG4hCe8vIjkPLNWpIKEDbZe6ZtGUjf5XOaghQXFEqc30/s1600/IMG_6997.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlufvG1OoKUy-cFbRkFuxy0ZDwMt7230brS8oGS_VeyIeQqGL-nUX21ZU8DVuKfASJGe6fPuzj3i2RUywetivissY4437_KSUUG4hCe8vIjkPLNWpIKEDbZe6ZtGUjf5XOaghQXFEqc30/s320/IMG_6997.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Next to the museum was a wooden boat building school with a few projects on the go including the refurbishment of the Woodie Guthrie wooden boat. </span></div>
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Woody Guthrie wooden boat restoration</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLrPxxO4hJ7d9wWAEnJMDU1eBnX-Mwsp7Ia9OEQThSNqYEh8VYR-oKMb2kHUQy0JK-B1YkmxD7NMCXUsUCDGz4pl5UostKarVh9ljsSVdzvfrURqs6TBlThZf5PrV-muUTml3Z91N73mU/s1600/IMG_7004.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLrPxxO4hJ7d9wWAEnJMDU1eBnX-Mwsp7Ia9OEQThSNqYEh8VYR-oKMb2kHUQy0JK-B1YkmxD7NMCXUsUCDGz4pl5UostKarVh9ljsSVdzvfrURqs6TBlThZf5PrV-muUTml3Z91N73mU/s320/IMG_7004.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Later, at the patio of a hotel next to the Kingston City Marina, there was a live band playing great Motown music that we really enjoyed. About an hour after they stopped, there was an informal jam session by various musicians including an accordion player, a fiddler, several guitars and a banjo player, in the park right next to the boats. How great is that. This was certainly an entertaining and fun stop.</span></div>
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Some of the lighthouses on the Hudson</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhE2-6TDOEopU-YaHTQRcpF8x16voAqagOeKCn57bZhpMkOLMitloleMnaniJr4_nOZUahRPlc_aqP5an8_NXAGnXGLzPSNqm8ZuBrMS1S9gWg1QnzRADA-EoY6ne-YJOg1cCVW5kgz3BU/s1600/IMG_6567.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhE2-6TDOEopU-YaHTQRcpF8x16voAqagOeKCn57bZhpMkOLMitloleMnaniJr4_nOZUahRPlc_aqP5an8_NXAGnXGLzPSNqm8ZuBrMS1S9gWg1QnzRADA-EoY6ne-YJOg1cCVW5kgz3BU/s320/IMG_6567.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfsjpL4Y3d2l9enfwaaCF7UZ9A0CBHspeYc_Yep7-uhKVjHQr8hRVf0x05ue1lXKjWGIPhdXUXyK2Tmx5X7arpqa9m3KCuFsRrhEzGd16bG2BBe6VTVKIgqFBiRvooGPbMQS1JMi4_b-c/s1600/IMG_7018.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfsjpL4Y3d2l9enfwaaCF7UZ9A0CBHspeYc_Yep7-uhKVjHQr8hRVf0x05ue1lXKjWGIPhdXUXyK2Tmx5X7arpqa9m3KCuFsRrhEzGd16bG2BBe6VTVKIgqFBiRvooGPbMQS1JMi4_b-c/s320/IMG_7018.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixXVFNAPXhXdyBAR6TtMmHDFefBSIWBNXKYzExKPQBpy7tzVk0PKjDTUghyzvJ4kGkdEgrEZbpN-oFHVGh_WrSLJf4Ajj8PmCHX1lsP8n0GUfSUipwznl6jPpYb5ynymJ4Rx2dmxBkdkY/s1600/IMG_2195.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixXVFNAPXhXdyBAR6TtMmHDFefBSIWBNXKYzExKPQBpy7tzVk0PKjDTUghyzvJ4kGkdEgrEZbpN-oFHVGh_WrSLJf4Ajj8PmCHX1lsP8n0GUfSUipwznl6jPpYb5ynymJ4Rx2dmxBkdkY/s320/IMG_2195.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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An old tug in Kingston</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjofi_DghcUN_3jA7bugKWXh4B_KfVugw_GfanCPbSY8-HBJ0YWhUZqT_TTm4YeRoXZA6msWK6Obcof1VUw2yR7G1r89TVagRUoeXNXF3ciltJnHf0QpjYYakeuM9olTkMMWpKB1bdKuXk/s1600/IMG_7014.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjofi_DghcUN_3jA7bugKWXh4B_KfVugw_GfanCPbSY8-HBJ0YWhUZqT_TTm4YeRoXZA6msWK6Obcof1VUw2yR7G1r89TVagRUoeXNXF3ciltJnHf0QpjYYakeuM9olTkMMWpKB1bdKuXk/s320/IMG_7014.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Tuesday July 11, 2017</b>: Today we headed a further 31 nautical miles up the Hudson to the small village of Coxsackie (pronounced cook-sackie). It was a very hot day and we were after some breeze, so we anchored just off the Coxsackie Yacht Club, partially behind an island. The river is getting much narrower now and the places to anchor (so you don’t interfere with river traffic) are becoming few and far between. Shortly we will be entering the Champlain Canal with a height restriction of 17 feet, so after anchoring, we helped Bob and Jan on Wings, to lower their mast. While undertaking this job, we saw our first ocean going ship on the river pass us. It was a lovely and quiet evening at anchor on the river and thankfully we could only faintly hear the train traffic far off in the distance on tracks that were much further away from the river. </span></div>
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Interestingly, all along the Hudson River, there were free pump our facilities (or just a nominal ~$2 fee), much like in Maine. As many of the boats in this area also boat along the Atlantic Coast and may well have been used to discharging waste overboard in the ocean, this is a very welcome service to ensure boaters do the right thing.<br />
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Wednesday July 12, 2017</b>: Today we headed to Waterford, a further 27 nautical miles. They is a uniquely located community. Just before Waterford, you pass through the first lock on the Hudson River, at Troy, New York. This is a “controlling lock” that effectively ends any further tides on the Hudson. Just north of this lock, at Waterford, boaters make a decision: head east (turn left) to enter the Erie Canal to make your way to Lake Ontario, or places further east like the Finger Lakes or even as far as Lake Erie. Or, head north (straight ahead), through the Champlain Canal, to Lake Champlain and further on to the Richelieu River and St. Lawrence River. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh55je0ZVIqDNNQaJpdgFn8fdHX00kKPmLdXsT4jKUSh0DZ3LFECBLR9jKwcdma95DafRr8vA4vO5XmR3OEFMpV4a4Qxkzm87dpf2qaCTBwnnwSsba-5k9yGg8Vg3Gy6zBqgu9KWcJ5p1I/s1600/IMG_7023.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh55je0ZVIqDNNQaJpdgFn8fdHX00kKPmLdXsT4jKUSh0DZ3LFECBLR9jKwcdma95DafRr8vA4vO5XmR3OEFMpV4a4Qxkzm87dpf2qaCTBwnnwSsba-5k9yGg8Vg3Gy6zBqgu9KWcJ5p1I/s320/IMG_7023.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Most boaters make a point of stopping in Waterford for at least a day. The stop is made even more enticing with free docking, free hydro, free water, washrooms and showers for up to two days. There are nearby grocery stores, good restaurants, places to walk and/or hike. The visitor centre is staffed by volunteers who are a wonderful source of information on all things related to the town. Clearly the program works. Cruising guides and word of mouth keep a steady stream of boaters arriving and they all spend money in the community.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">We were greeted by other friendly boaters who helped with our docking lines, including a couple named David and Judy, aboard a 1969 classic, wooden 36’ Grand Banks named “Katherine”. Later, David and Judy joined us aboard Wings for a Happy Hour and a game of Five Crowns, which was great fun. David proved beyond all doubt that this is a game of luck. It was their first time playing and David won the game!</span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-font-kerning: none;">David & Judy aboard Grand Banks "Katherine"</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNR7SMe38dnSq1BCQ00oTubO3yAylhEog5dbxTcr83KY2ajMK1YmmnJLVQfNUgl4OcA70SFarwtp6hfzlY0VCGAQG0d2R23MqFo7LLHQ1mooofZpbttEXQ_vvDK8nf5Qyhbnsm34DArd0/s1600/IMG_7028.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNR7SMe38dnSq1BCQ00oTubO3yAylhEog5dbxTcr83KY2ajMK1YmmnJLVQfNUgl4OcA70SFarwtp6hfzlY0VCGAQG0d2R23MqFo7LLHQ1mooofZpbttEXQ_vvDK8nf5Qyhbnsm34DArd0/s320/IMG_7028.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">I’d hazard a guess that most boaters visit a quirky restaurant in Waterford named Don & Paul’s. It looks much like it probably did in the 1950’s with an eclectic collection of memorabilia decorating all available wall space. The menu offers a good collection of basic breakfast and lunch items that are available all day long. The food quality is exceptionally good, very generous and unimaginably inexpensive. For example, my very large and delicious omelette and toast was only $3.50. Fran’s Philly Cheese sandwich was $5.00. The restaurant’s primary focus was catering to their local client base and the place was packed with locals who all knew each other. A room near the back of the restaurant had a pool table and a group of six to eight elderly local men were always playing a game. There was a special kind of interaction between the restaurant and their local clientele that added to the fun atmosphere of the place. Visiting here was great fun. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Thursday July 13, 2017</b>: Today was my 65th birthday and it was filled with lots of memorable activities. Best of all was the phone and FaceTime calls with our daughters and some of the grandchildren. I also had many calls and emails from family & friends plus numerous Facebook good wishes throughout the day. We fit in another visit to Don and Paul’s for breakfast - just as fun as yesterday’s visit. Finally, Fran made a magnificent salmon dinner which we shared with Bob and Jan. It was followed by cake and ice cream. There is nothing quite like a gourmet meal on ones own boat to make it a special birthday to remember. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLmYekT_5N4md3XIx_rvQe5HChZ-1oOoazn4_MHbPpouqpOSIgu8O75W9D0mQE0HyFKqsDMCtaZqKUREn6b9cWxrXms8sPshXBNWf4wSQEQVjFWJG_whfLaQE90QEz5cPEhgdeO37FQE8/s1600/IMG_6596.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLmYekT_5N4md3XIx_rvQe5HChZ-1oOoazn4_MHbPpouqpOSIgu8O75W9D0mQE0HyFKqsDMCtaZqKUREn6b9cWxrXms8sPshXBNWf4wSQEQVjFWJG_whfLaQE90QEz5cPEhgdeO37FQE8/s400/IMG_6596.JPG" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">After dinner, we were delighted to see three deer wandering about on the shores of the island, just across the channel from us.</span></div>
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A well maintained Lord Nelson 37' Tug</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcJwqs-43MgcONhuMi6g8CHVJdiE8Vp9nN7jvcAyxb8WIA6xOXG43r3rronUgjsqxSwA8VUmELSf8kVoygSKFzaIDVBc1I5IXG5uSivHx_Osdzr-tZp7Me7vOoojSgY2g86c2T0A8ssvY/s1600/IMG_7026.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcJwqs-43MgcONhuMi6g8CHVJdiE8Vp9nN7jvcAyxb8WIA6xOXG43r3rronUgjsqxSwA8VUmELSf8kVoygSKFzaIDVBc1I5IXG5uSivHx_Osdzr-tZp7Me7vOoojSgY2g86c2T0A8ssvY/s320/IMG_7026.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Friday July 14, 2017</b>: After a relaxing full day and a half in Waterford, we moved on into the Champlain Canal, passing through locks C-1 and C-2, making it a rather short day trip to Mechanicville, New York. These locks on the Champlain Canal are quite a bit bigger than locks on Ontario’s Trent Severn Waterway and Rideau Canals. We were also surprised and delighted that the Champlain and Erie Canal systems were celebrating their 200th anniversary and they were free this season. What a welcome and unexpected bonus. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Mechanicville, from a boater’s perspective, seems to live under the shadow of the very successful Waterford. We did a brief walk about, had a shore lunch and did some banking at the local TD Bank, but that was about it. I think we were the first customers of TD America's Most Convenient Bank, from Canada, to arrive by boat.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">We had a quiet evening with a movie and an early night.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">This week, I was reminded of folk singer Pete Seeger and the magnificent work he and his wife Toshi did, beginning in 1966, starting Hudson River Sloop Clearwater Inc. Their non-profit organization based in Beacon, New York sought to protect the Hudson River and surrounding wetlands through advocacy and public education. The organization is also known for its sailing vessel, the sloop Clearwater and for its annual music and environmental festival, the Great Hudson River Revival. </span></div>
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Pete Seeger aboard the Clearwater</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijIr9EHDIqs16NThnzz7Df6maidJEH7yB0HG_iRUewDMS2QQQ-w8x21BOTfuelmrPdXhjtJJzyqdnbVOeCeEsBfA8zCYsHda7iItMU2uxaqS6kQXGi877wVB8aRAjgPT2tGc9X_Js4Rd4/s1600/IMG_2212.PNG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="218" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijIr9EHDIqs16NThnzz7Df6maidJEH7yB0HG_iRUewDMS2QQQ-w8x21BOTfuelmrPdXhjtJJzyqdnbVOeCeEsBfA8zCYsHda7iItMU2uxaqS6kQXGi877wVB8aRAjgPT2tGc9X_Js4Rd4/s320/IMG_2212.PNG" width="320" /></a></div>
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The Sloop Clearwater</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiENFp7OP7z1TfJxVK8BXQuPThQd7nsJk2J6CxD-buPebBLSxkCcbDMnwLrM8lFNrRl_1xekHYXFYDxHyDlWm0hE8zGdRimYGO05Fvqkkrn4LuUlypN6tYaXCJai2Ep1L3nvMtIfsYeZ5U/s1600/IMG_2215.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="159" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiENFp7OP7z1TfJxVK8BXQuPThQd7nsJk2J6CxD-buPebBLSxkCcbDMnwLrM8lFNrRl_1xekHYXFYDxHyDlWm0hE8zGdRimYGO05Fvqkkrn4LuUlypN6tYaXCJai2Ep1L3nvMtIfsYeZ5U/s320/IMG_2215.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">The Clearwater and the Clearwater Festival worked to draw attention to the problem of pollution of the Hudson River. It included mercury contamination and sewage dumping as well as PCB contamination from GE which caused a range of harmful effects to wildlife and people who ate fish from the river or drank the water. Clearwater gained national recognition for its activism starting in the 1970’s, to force a clean-up of the PCB contamination, addressing pesticide run off and much more. Clearwater played a big role in the EPA’s decision to compel the Hudson River’s biggest polluters to remove their toxic wast from the water. In 2002, Peter Seeger was named a “Clean Water Hero” for his prominent efforts in the passage of the Clean Water Act, which has turned out to be one of the most effective environmental laws in United Stages. In 2014, after Pete Seeger’s death, the EPA sited Seeger’s “incredible work” and “his leadership was extraordinary” all of which helped make the Hudson River cleaner. A great man of our time.</span></div>
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Adventures of Fran and Stephenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13217182448252927451noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1905445316771270903.post-78775421689938166222017-07-12T11:24:00.000-07:002017-07-12T11:24:30.461-07:00NEW YORK CITY - East River to the Hudson River<div style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Helvetica; line-height: normal;">
Here is our route covered in this blog</div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz9QF2amsnujLXDG1k7kv7ll3QgULPtvV7aeMB3a12EdfN-Km5gd5tNvHA3V3RvyEZFng54w9Hshg7jO1ioq9VU56B5IpppO-g6ez54tBIjzeF6e6Mk5XvcWuPKSzHyAlSscI47hfk6Ko/s1600/Screen+Shot+2017-07-10+at+8.53.46+PM.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="248" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz9QF2amsnujLXDG1k7kv7ll3QgULPtvV7aeMB3a12EdfN-Km5gd5tNvHA3V3RvyEZFng54w9Hshg7jO1ioq9VU56B5IpppO-g6ez54tBIjzeF6e6Mk5XvcWuPKSzHyAlSscI47hfk6Ko/s320/Screen+Shot+2017-07-10+at+8.53.46+PM.png" width="320" /></a></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Saturday July 8, 2017</b>: After our evening rain at Port Washington, the sky cleared up for our trip through New York City’s East River and the start of our trip up the Hudson River. We timed our arrival at Throg’s Neck Bridge, at the start of the East River, so that during the first 7 miles on the river, we’d have a slight current against us. However, that meant we’d we’d arrive at the Hell Gate section of the East River right at slack tide. This area can have currents up to 5 knots making transiting of that section of the river much more challenging. We of course wanted to be as relaxed as possible so we could take in the sights and get some good photos. We’re only doing this trip once!</span></div>
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Long Island home near Port Washington<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRm5UI1aRHcX-ZnuwnE7uBhnWNgN8la4VDO9cVQR-oodFQwpB-dLZKTZ9hyUjtG9WKB7_HGrhQqZ4ptbRjLyEmUqk3pGUU4637PRbz2iAdWdvqOIjv7B-inxTq2iq6thEMint3HJesZyg/s1600/IMG_1973+2.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRm5UI1aRHcX-ZnuwnE7uBhnWNgN8la4VDO9cVQR-oodFQwpB-dLZKTZ9hyUjtG9WKB7_HGrhQqZ4ptbRjLyEmUqk3pGUU4637PRbz2iAdWdvqOIjv7B-inxTq2iq6thEMint3HJesZyg/s320/IMG_1973+2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhErbTjFGT9TcOzZbP_flKrjo_WTRUHQ7hhXMpbr-BDoJY0t41waVYHEaIb-TJQV26vt6jkr7yu2nJQcnT1i7xbc5FbGsjohfTO6e4X-JdOB1vuSPwYYNfqqo8ihzbQxieLLas4BNW3EQU/s1600/IMG_1990+2.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhErbTjFGT9TcOzZbP_flKrjo_WTRUHQ7hhXMpbr-BDoJY0t41waVYHEaIb-TJQV26vt6jkr7yu2nJQcnT1i7xbc5FbGsjohfTO6e4X-JdOB1vuSPwYYNfqqo8ihzbQxieLLas4BNW3EQU/s320/IMG_1990+2.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">We were not disappointed. The river currents were just as expected and all well behaved. Experiencing the river by boat is such a treat for the eyes. We saw:</span></div>
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<li style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 11px; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-kerning: none;">Bridges - we went under Throgs Neck Bridge; Bronx-Whitestone Bridge; Hell Gate Bridge; Queensboro Bridge; Williamsburg Bridge; Manhattan Bridge; Brooklin Bridge; George Washington Bridge and Tappan Zee Bridge (all very impressive)</span></li>
<li style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 11px; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-kerning: none;">Tugs pushing barges </span></li>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica";">Planes taking off overhead every few minutes </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica";"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimXWH82s5aXxtTpKUbA-AfvKrcwrdXmz3U_Wmtvzi_U3GOZNsliLrFx1Zh50r0TC_uIFdN2HPffAZuBAkjD-vqkUGRP1eTW8_RVKQVOmUZH77haiaHm172EHwGfw8AjhyB8JdDcMTZwIg/s1600/IMG_2033+2.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimXWH82s5aXxtTpKUbA-AfvKrcwrdXmz3U_Wmtvzi_U3GOZNsliLrFx1Zh50r0TC_uIFdN2HPffAZuBAkjD-vqkUGRP1eTW8_RVKQVOmUZH77haiaHm172EHwGfw8AjhyB8JdDcMTZwIg/s320/IMG_2033+2.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica";">One of many...</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwcaJP44wbckKumOlKnCiv51U0pNR7x5Ah_Fph6NqNNbX-UtX0PXteA-777GHIP3uo9wjLbgkYVds1DsUTwUOvaQQuL0t5jGZO6szqpfy0hkID5rHJ_0EW08KF5gLS6UWAnpVtRtPFnm8/s1600/IMG_2070+2.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwcaJP44wbckKumOlKnCiv51U0pNR7x5Ah_Fph6NqNNbX-UtX0PXteA-777GHIP3uo9wjLbgkYVds1DsUTwUOvaQQuL0t5jGZO6szqpfy0hkID5rHJ_0EW08KF5gLS6UWAnpVtRtPFnm8/s320/IMG_2070+2.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">We of course saw and were wowed by all the sky scrapers and the city skyline including the impressive One World Trade Centre replacing the Twin Towers downed in the 2001 terrorist attack. One World Trade took 7 years to complete and opened in July 2013. It is the 6th tallest building in the world at 1,792 feet tall, 104 floors above ground, 3,501,000 square feet of floor space.</span></div>
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UN Headquarters<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXzOyc5ilEuWTMAlZqW9woFEr7Eyifpamisb8XaHuukufNaV7De42iAxucdqBTqWlhXwapcdB3u-6kO3RlQ2MEGLeS6oIgRgP-zdvwB110Bml-BxAL7kl1UxmsBmHsD2mRTHqI7wXeS7c/s1600/IMG_2054+2.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXzOyc5ilEuWTMAlZqW9woFEr7Eyifpamisb8XaHuukufNaV7De42iAxucdqBTqWlhXwapcdB3u-6kO3RlQ2MEGLeS6oIgRgP-zdvwB110Bml-BxAL7kl1UxmsBmHsD2mRTHqI7wXeS7c/s320/IMG_2054+2.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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Recognize this building?<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-vASkIksnh55AEDIT7MQT-nVK5Cp_ZGnmi2nssoHKBexLIo_i_Ml_JVmwTZYDAvv4zAvkmsLHuB4Zg5_kY83cUXGAfXd-8wuMqmTRgxAMXRLM9BZmphjKHmX2PO64mhX6RSXahiEvh6k/s1600/IMG_2053+2.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-vASkIksnh55AEDIT7MQT-nVK5Cp_ZGnmi2nssoHKBexLIo_i_Ml_JVmwTZYDAvv4zAvkmsLHuB4Zg5_kY83cUXGAfXd-8wuMqmTRgxAMXRLM9BZmphjKHmX2PO64mhX6RSXahiEvh6k/s320/IMG_2053+2.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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Cool architecture - American Cooper Buildings (rental apartments)<br />
(a skyscraper hug? or Dancing Towers)<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQW-foKG03yEEFQqYIgmEfTrtz2T01Pe-GuanfJZSC9Yt7tWhm27_YsO-T8tn-VcLY_3oyxXQrM5dF8uXuNrLeXc67kTDFgmXZRsLfWe-HeczRZXQX5xDE18Twt4KHVWEhNkssOVWe85Y/s1600/IMG_2062+2.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQW-foKG03yEEFQqYIgmEfTrtz2T01Pe-GuanfJZSC9Yt7tWhm27_YsO-T8tn-VcLY_3oyxXQrM5dF8uXuNrLeXc67kTDFgmXZRsLfWe-HeczRZXQX5xDE18Twt4KHVWEhNkssOVWe85Y/s320/IMG_2062+2.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXOvRwZr7fq2s7j2hBIYIla3XHNz5-8Lz7sY84zS0zN2WtysjOdF4ysfuynMbkS97yhPvZTOVN6HcFRw5bBqN_WmQd9EXR3YkOYyG8A3U64dhbambGEABCPFw7BLBNgjktNztZGKfYrxA/s1600/IMG_2140+2.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXOvRwZr7fq2s7j2hBIYIla3XHNz5-8Lz7sY84zS0zN2WtysjOdF4ysfuynMbkS97yhPvZTOVN6HcFRw5bBqN_WmQd9EXR3YkOYyG8A3U64dhbambGEABCPFw7BLBNgjktNztZGKfYrxA/s320/IMG_2140+2.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Roosevelt Island Tram passes overhead<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhucIxeuhsy6T2sVlLNUCaxYPJTh2aFVburd0jDeOabN-UUsI1wiimbIsYXZoV-cOOEW25zljc_cfGsjpwM5fE1gfj3IF0rWuOOtJWo2S3KGyjxfMPWdxTJQhn8cKhX6U8s31bGSDba8CE/s1600/IMG_2048+2.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhucIxeuhsy6T2sVlLNUCaxYPJTh2aFVburd0jDeOabN-UUsI1wiimbIsYXZoV-cOOEW25zljc_cfGsjpwM5fE1gfj3IF0rWuOOtJWo2S3KGyjxfMPWdxTJQhn8cKhX6U8s31bGSDba8CE/s320/IMG_2048+2.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Helicopters everywhere<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7f5zARe2kTEGEiAS6hLv1UIPy6BLS_0JhWoy7A-auWPzCdUpJMTAX55T-kh1A1rmZ3ChaDU6MwGRYHQNq7qksMH_HnQjRh774xPqFMXqcSiS8GfCrvw8KGj7OULRvV3B8-RvPERD01uw/s1600/IMG_2083+2.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7f5zARe2kTEGEiAS6hLv1UIPy6BLS_0JhWoy7A-auWPzCdUpJMTAX55T-kh1A1rmZ3ChaDU6MwGRYHQNq7qksMH_HnQjRh774xPqFMXqcSiS8GfCrvw8KGj7OULRvV3B8-RvPERD01uw/s320/IMG_2083+2.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Southern tip of Manhattan - One World Trade building<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGGBhX2l8GSSls8xGZxTyPgdbvBj-h7xaVfpysi8FccAIL-0oWe9mz6hwtgqTAZ_jxhBi_5fO06eiPsgEk0sQvdLALos7sctzDnnXr1rc-ydo3GwLgvEyfK_4rxEPnfvCc6uKfj2AeE1I/s1600/IMG_2122+2.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGGBhX2l8GSSls8xGZxTyPgdbvBj-h7xaVfpysi8FccAIL-0oWe9mz6hwtgqTAZ_jxhBi_5fO06eiPsgEk0sQvdLALos7sctzDnnXr1rc-ydo3GwLgvEyfK_4rxEPnfvCc6uKfj2AeE1I/s320/IMG_2122+2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Other highlights included:</span></div>
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<li style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 11px; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-size: 13.2px; line-height: normal;"></span><span style="font-kerning: none;">Seeing a Fire Boat tug put on a water pumping display</span></li>
<li style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 11px; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-size: 13.2px; line-height: normal;"></span><span style="font-kerning: none;">Seeing the Statue of Liberty on Liberty Island and having Tug’n’s picture taken in front of her</span></li>
<li style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 11px; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-size: 13.2px; line-height: normal;"></span><span style="font-kerning: none;">Seeing the Hudson Tea building in Hoboken, where Ria and her family lived for about 5 years when they first moved there from Toronto.</span></li>
<li style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 11px; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-size: 13.2px; line-height: normal;"></span><span style="font-kerning: none;">Passing under the Tappan Zee bridge where two more bridges are in advanced stages of construction to replace the original bridge</span></li>
<li style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 11px; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-size: 13.2px; line-height: normal;"></span><span style="font-kerning: none;">Surviving all the immense boat traffic, especially where the East River meets the Hudson River, where the south tip of Manhattan is kitty corner to the Statue of Liberty on Liberty Island. Boats were coming and going everywhere and it was no small task to make sure you were following the “rules of the road” and trying to stay out of trouble. </span></li>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"></span>Tug'n and Statue of Liberty<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0nEg9U7iFQZncuO-nkAoZ-ByZUGsVSLcXwiwlyjKy7-WfSKq3LgarZV-oHqBQnhSH3sCzIdu2pmyqZlc4TcjHCI8BDtkxLliGpkCo08rgcuUXo407VM9jmEcMo1LrnkLoxUcptAm9860/s1600/IMG_2111+2.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0nEg9U7iFQZncuO-nkAoZ-ByZUGsVSLcXwiwlyjKy7-WfSKq3LgarZV-oHqBQnhSH3sCzIdu2pmyqZlc4TcjHCI8BDtkxLliGpkCo08rgcuUXo407VM9jmEcMo1LrnkLoxUcptAm9860/s320/IMG_2111+2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyiOXrHD2bkDN5XEeTbKTZ9YBbiuK7WJh0fcODoP-I5LwR3Ie4UDbOEIekAsz44ZirawmGUHDp48JMWnd2OIvhhfZSS8Ql2tmDPgG-6UwzTgXPnwMz0V3QdHYAViA2sasHKpRavH-fLiU/s1600/IMG_2103+2.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyiOXrHD2bkDN5XEeTbKTZ9YBbiuK7WJh0fcODoP-I5LwR3Ie4UDbOEIekAsz44ZirawmGUHDp48JMWnd2OIvhhfZSS8Ql2tmDPgG-6UwzTgXPnwMz0V3QdHYAViA2sasHKpRavH-fLiU/s320/IMG_2103+2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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NewYork City Fire Boat display<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidvV-dDqWqlmBNA-s9eBpM1XBjK3ftxkD-6bKGPe9Hkic_LNO_on5MXsMBHAlHUXnaWEKTz9ZJ4H3l5L-eFRgDR0iOR1ht43WJ_spVnZmnpTFJ5wIhSVakg90wGvNkBowfw9LaASlrnZk/s1600/IMG_2088+2.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidvV-dDqWqlmBNA-s9eBpM1XBjK3ftxkD-6bKGPe9Hkic_LNO_on5MXsMBHAlHUXnaWEKTz9ZJ4H3l5L-eFRgDR0iOR1ht43WJ_spVnZmnpTFJ5wIhSVakg90wGvNkBowfw9LaASlrnZk/s320/IMG_2088+2.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Retired British Airways Concord Jet<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqFUTB35qD3jFnP13IrbmExeYmc1N8BL-aJSvg_MGn5V11MlQTkRfPNtBAQBEsrYHdyMx0B-7GkmiCIjh1JkBjqZltTGFxcRJ9OTSMV5qEFsyD22JuaZS9bWw8x7MGksRSIkT5qiVYfF0/s1600/IMG_2132+2.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqFUTB35qD3jFnP13IrbmExeYmc1N8BL-aJSvg_MGn5V11MlQTkRfPNtBAQBEsrYHdyMx0B-7GkmiCIjh1JkBjqZltTGFxcRJ9OTSMV5qEFsyD22JuaZS9bWw8x7MGksRSIkT5qiVYfF0/s320/IMG_2132+2.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Hudson Tea building in Hoboken - Ria, Pat & family lived here<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXJmagdBdYUCCy3gvbiF3ImfdJwOASQZL1UkDfQVT0LeY99DzccqdkMJhkAcjhzpFv9EL-ANJox979VXkQ7KUuHa1jWnSAtY0cvDQd7KiJcDUGJJtl6i9kn1GAIznXOzd1S5PczR6JVng/s1600/IMG_2127+2.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXJmagdBdYUCCy3gvbiF3ImfdJwOASQZL1UkDfQVT0LeY99DzccqdkMJhkAcjhzpFv9EL-ANJox979VXkQ7KUuHa1jWnSAtY0cvDQd7KiJcDUGJJtl6i9kn1GAIznXOzd1S5PczR6JVng/s320/IMG_2127+2.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">It was a long 9 hour day underway and it was a relief to arrive at our anchorage at Stoney Point on the west side of the Hudson River, just past Haverstraw. We just got our anchor down before the sky opened up to deliver Tug’n another rinse of fresh water. We certainly enjoyed our well deserved Happy Hour refreshment. It turns out railway tracks follow both sides of the Hudson River. Our side of the river (west side) had the freight trains which we heard all night long and they each blasted their horns just as they went by our anchorage. Maybe we’ll try the east side tomorrow.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Tappan Zee Bridges under construction</span><br />
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHXRSfPF0ZbIZNVnDVWOyVTI4o3RdbrigDQaEN8GS0RsZktcSZoZKnMVHIZU1_BbkPOWifMJpq5fuzGkODFR1FYMgfs7fs2zflACvUUt3x_7f4s2ahgRlbcW_JWQbFkWvY98eXBh7J4do/s1600/IMG_2157+2.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHXRSfPF0ZbIZNVnDVWOyVTI4o3RdbrigDQaEN8GS0RsZktcSZoZKnMVHIZU1_BbkPOWifMJpq5fuzGkODFR1FYMgfs7fs2zflACvUUt3x_7f4s2ahgRlbcW_JWQbFkWvY98eXBh7J4do/s320/IMG_2157+2.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
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Impressive tug on the Hudson River<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8Sy1woCOio9j2JhuOya5vbiBHiyrRaTRt0iytONiioC0N4mijBew3l0DkDw07KDNxhgErCt6ZE6QyKgcbPVkY-mNxVt7IpD_6S79kX2Sscx_-tZk1rplbTsayOGHg7SMT5xBVYEY4CAI/s1600/IMG_2159+2.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8Sy1woCOio9j2JhuOya5vbiBHiyrRaTRt0iytONiioC0N4mijBew3l0DkDw07KDNxhgErCt6ZE6QyKgcbPVkY-mNxVt7IpD_6S79kX2Sscx_-tZk1rplbTsayOGHg7SMT5xBVYEY4CAI/s320/IMG_2159+2.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Adventures of Fran and Stephenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13217182448252927451noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1905445316771270903.post-30008509189868868692017-07-09T12:43:00.001-07:002017-07-09T12:43:16.189-07:00BOATING CAN BE DANGEROUS - Block Island to Port Washington<div style="line-height: normal;">
<span style="-webkit-font-kerning: none;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica;">Here<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;"> is our route for this blog post</span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyG9e3cn9BF8XZWg8euEBNgKr7LwRBaCAYMriItQxp6jeLg68cnPXNnph8VIDsTNbrZTwuxzzWolMg1UanUdv-XaBI1Stsjtm2eE-HtBcujKzw5GSNdiPkAERtNudj-qEICyghZJ5Y-P0/s1600/FullSizeRender-2.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="221" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyG9e3cn9BF8XZWg8euEBNgKr7LwRBaCAYMriItQxp6jeLg68cnPXNnph8VIDsTNbrZTwuxzzWolMg1UanUdv-XaBI1Stsjtm2eE-HtBcujKzw5GSNdiPkAERtNudj-qEICyghZJ5Y-P0/s320/FullSizeRender-2.jpg" width="320" /></a></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Sunday July 2, 2017</b>: We’re going to stay another day anchored at Prudence Island, in Narragansett Bay. Its a great summer day with bright, beautiful sunshine, a light breeze and its going to be hot. After breakfast, it was time to wash the boat cabin & decks from three days in Newport Harbour in high winds. The wash, rinse & wipe down of the bow, pilot house, salon and cockpit took four hours, but it sure felt good when it was done. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">We spent a relaxing afternoon on board. I even took a swim, and while I was in the water, Fran handed me a brush to give the hull waterline a scrub. This was my first swim of the season and the water was lovely. </span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-font-kerning: none;">Swimming at Prudence Island anchorage!</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLxL_qK_hRtzAMUTbGet2Txea4Ne-RKr3d2dNEy2X2phlx-2-9T8G4cflzbRHFndUwGPC_AcfiS244a-BLr6xGXGSsaRkMXmKZjF0O1xYk7CsisXR3MTrYjK7nCUuhZRh3KzYu_Y9jx2g/s1600/IMG_1947.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLxL_qK_hRtzAMUTbGet2Txea4Ne-RKr3d2dNEy2X2phlx-2-9T8G4cflzbRHFndUwGPC_AcfiS244a-BLr6xGXGSsaRkMXmKZjF0O1xYk7CsisXR3MTrYjK7nCUuhZRh3KzYu_Y9jx2g/s320/IMG_1947.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">As we sat out in the cockpit and read our books, we were also quite entertained by the huge number of boats that came out to the anchorage for the day. However, far too many arrived running too fast and bringing big wakes with them affecting all the other boats in the anchorage. Three quarters of the boats were gone by sunset, leaving the anchorage calm and serene for the night. As darkness set in, we could hear the faint sound of fireworks far off in the distance. We learned that the local communities spread out the July 4th fireworks celebrations over multiple days. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Today was certainly a relaxing, feel good day that left us feeling very refreshed. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Monday July 3, 2017</b>: Its another beautiful summer day with a forecast high of 30 degrees C. After a few discussions with Bob and Jan on Wings, we decided we’d head to Block Island on Buzzards Bay today and then gradually make our way west along the Long Island shoreline towards New York City.</span></div>
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House on a rock - as we past Newport Harbour</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5gP763gf-ysdMi5Gej0NzSuGUa7WfldzCwBZPHoAgeesf8qNKLTVKe0bCuwQ-j1MZbQ-jckt5zIt9FvjvAX9ACbF6HsSPB9-RE-2YOoSqt1eQGfQwWJrAQp3FP1TlEz1eFiU3EkI9jAY/s1600/IMG_1952.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5gP763gf-ysdMi5Gej0NzSuGUa7WfldzCwBZPHoAgeesf8qNKLTVKe0bCuwQ-j1MZbQ-jckt5zIt9FvjvAX9ACbF6HsSPB9-RE-2YOoSqt1eQGfQwWJrAQp3FP1TlEz1eFiU3EkI9jAY/s320/IMG_1952.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Block Island is located out in the Atlantic Ocean off the coast of Rhode Island and it was named after Dutch explorer Adriaen Block. The island has a population of just over 1,000 and 40% of its 9,733 square miles are set aside for conservation. Block Island is known as a summer tourist destination offering cycling, hiking, sailing, fishing and beaches. It also has two historic light houses. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Block Island has a storied history of numerous conflicts in the 1600’s between its native population and the colonials. At one particularly low point, following the native murders of several colonials, the Governor of Massachusetts sent 90 men to Block Island with orders to “massacre all native men on the island”. Fortunately, after the fighting started, the bulk of the native population hid in the forests and only 14 were killed. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">While Block Island is part of Rhode Island, during the War of 1812 it was briefly occupied by British troops. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Block Island has no natural harbour, but it did have a salt pond almost 1 square mile. In 1895, a channel was cut into the natural “Great Salt Pond” as it is called. The resulting anchorage now offers wonderful 360 degree protection with good depth throughout and it is a favourite cruising destination capable of accommodating hundreds of boats at anchor and on docks and moorings at its four marinas. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Block Island has plenty of beaches and shore attractions and on this 4th of July long weekend, it was packed with something in the range of 400 to 500 boats. Surprisingly, the anchoring was all very orderly among all manner of watercraft from paddle boats, small sailing dinghies, right up to mega yachts. We took a picture of our radar screen showing red dots for all the boats in part of the anchorage to give you an idea of how full the anchorage was. </span></div>
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Channel into Great Salt Pond - Block Island</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvOi_hmVpHge0AEgccZALftYaE7oaxcL0L5yt_wulCtOq-ejP8lk71tTD-y34svikidOWpy_Ag4mxWQZknA9CqS3uSEkkuReJ41gD9WNl6fEwxzq0eSsEtRyD3zzqO_KnxJNdN7-1fGPE/s1600/IMG_1953.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvOi_hmVpHge0AEgccZALftYaE7oaxcL0L5yt_wulCtOq-ejP8lk71tTD-y34svikidOWpy_Ag4mxWQZknA9CqS3uSEkkuReJ41gD9WNl6fEwxzq0eSsEtRyD3zzqO_KnxJNdN7-1fGPE/s320/IMG_1953.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Screen shot of radar screen - each red dot is a boat!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgR7icX3s1KG_aAKHK3kPheijn3ouJLwROjbtWkbdt5NFlm5MxZc16dXeZFkacksPT973cfjViMVVl_g0VV0qKtnrx15HiA4nK5x5sYk9g8wmd2ll0_f-jMN6NObuJ5hm8JfI_D3i5ivxI/s1600/IMG_6929.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgR7icX3s1KG_aAKHK3kPheijn3ouJLwROjbtWkbdt5NFlm5MxZc16dXeZFkacksPT973cfjViMVVl_g0VV0qKtnrx15HiA4nK5x5sYk9g8wmd2ll0_f-jMN6NObuJ5hm8JfI_D3i5ivxI/s320/IMG_6929.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Busy anchorage at Block Island</div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">At night, the anchorage was really quite magical with the boats’ anchor lights plus many boats were lit up with coloured lights, neon lights, flashing lights, Christmas lights and more. It looked like a colourful floating village. </span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-font-kerning: none;">Block Island sunset</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhW04xwvXmIg-U-LG-MlAdRc8-YlvMVrEIKDOzBWmeB084ga3iwzfc6ZNEY2ahms_ylyHhrhHvlLey1T2TSqcR7ZkZzYfRGxPW0C7i4vmaf3jY9J4Y-k9x4rnKCgVq_7-l64MMvx3JMDAM/s1600/IMG_1957.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhW04xwvXmIg-U-LG-MlAdRc8-YlvMVrEIKDOzBWmeB084ga3iwzfc6ZNEY2ahms_ylyHhrhHvlLey1T2TSqcR7ZkZzYfRGxPW0C7i4vmaf3jY9J4Y-k9x4rnKCgVq_7-l64MMvx3JMDAM/s320/IMG_1957.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Tuesday July 4, 2017</b>: <b>Happy Independence Day to all our American friends</b>! It is another beautiful morning (which we are getting rather used to) and we are underway at 0750 to cross Block Island Sound to the eastern end of Long Island, New York (our fifth state we’ve been boating in this summer). Crossing Block Island Sound was very relaxing. There was no wind and the water surface was glassy with just some light ocean swells leftover from yesterday’s wind. The ocean swells ended when we got protection from behind Montauk Point at the tip of Long Island. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">As we approached our anchorage, we heard a distress call to the Coast Guard on Channel 16 on the VHF marine radio. A couple had anchored on the east side of Plum Island and the husband had gone for a swim. The current got him separated from the boat and it was too far for him to swim back against the current. The wife did not know how to operate the boat and her husband needed to be rescued fast. The Coast Guard, plus Tow Boat USA plus another boat all responded immediately. They sought clarification on the exact location of the boat and the swimmer and the wife had good, clear answers. But as time went by, she reported her husband was trying to swim to the nearby island and seemed to be having difficulty and she was clearly becoming more distressed. At about the 20 minute point after her first call, the wife reported she couldn't see her husband and pleaded for the rescue boats to hurry. Within a few more minutes the rescue boats were on the scene and reported they had recovered her husband, and needed EMS, but there was no comment as to his well being. After the wife’s pleading for more information, the Coast Guard asked for a cell phone number they could contact her on. There was no more information forthcoming and we began to think the worst had happened. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">It wasn’t until the next day that I did a Google query and learned the 63 year old man had died from the incident. It was an emotionally draining event to listen to and it remained on our minds for the next few days. It prompted us to talk through our own emergency procedures and discuss ways to make it easier to perform boat operating duties in a stressful situation. BOATING CAN BE DANGEROUS!</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">We chose Coecles Harbour (pronounced cockles) on Shelter Island for our stop today. The anchorage is known locally as the “jewel of the fishtail”, with fishtail referring to the shape of the mix of islands at the east end of Long Island. Coecles Harbour is a very well protected bay. We anchored in the one designated area for visitors and it was indeed a very lovely spot with beaches and a tree lined shore with lots of space for many boats. There were several Nordic Tug’s in the anchorage and we managed a short visit with very friendly couple aboard a local NT32 named Sun Rise.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">After a game of Five Crowns over Happy Hour with Bob and Jan, we enjoyed a lovely, quiet evening with a perfect sunset to end the day (trying to put the drowning event out of our minds).</span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-font-kerning: none;">Sunset at Coecles Harbour</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif19CXQ02OQl7joB5fjT3vCmMU9cyfp6bCoP6jjRcSyzmjw66X0ztFXYp3TzF14af6gqeGPPWgFlVQzcesYPzVWKdTrKAlbZ9Ic8eIrImG0_hvs4Io_IwtyX7TRKdBQoMgpXkhXueXbYk/s1600/IMG_1959.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif19CXQ02OQl7joB5fjT3vCmMU9cyfp6bCoP6jjRcSyzmjw66X0ztFXYp3TzF14af6gqeGPPWgFlVQzcesYPzVWKdTrKAlbZ9Ic8eIrImG0_hvs4Io_IwtyX7TRKdBQoMgpXkhXueXbYk/s320/IMG_1959.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Wednesday July 5, 2017</b>: We were up at 0500 hours this morning to prepare for our 0600 departure for Port Jefferson, a 50 nautical mile trip, westward towards New York City. There was a light east wind and by the time we got out of the harbour, we were enveloped in thick fog. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">To get out of Gardiners Bay at the end of Long Island, we had to pass through the narrow “Plum Gut Passage” which has stiff currents and some rip tides. We carefully made our way through the fog, feeling fortunate the boat traffic was light at this early time of the day. Thankfully, the fog lifted as we passed through Plum Gut in a two knot current that tossed us about for a short while before we were safely on our westward bound course in Long Island Sound. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">The sun came out and the wind and waves were from behind us, making for a very comfortable ride in the 1 to 2 knot current. Mid morning, our AIS showed us that a pleasure craft named Vibrant Curiosity was heading towards us. When I clicked on its icon on our chart plotter, I learned the boat (yacht?) was 279’ long and 46’ wide. That’s a lot of pleasure craft; way more than I can imaging running. Not many marinas could handle that sort of mega yacht. </span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-font-kerning: none;">Vibrant Curiosity - 279' pleasure craft</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg02engsEFAeP4_2zqnbt1Ig5CQxKiUbBiPufMMo4m84aGYqUUT93gjkhXiuJ9FJ1BJsrg3WsLEAJfzhWXOdYDvONa0_zZ1ZjDed5lXvXAfcYuL3hBr2EaSSDf0D460ozoUDwKbb-2FjT8/s1600/IMG_1962.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg02engsEFAeP4_2zqnbt1Ig5CQxKiUbBiPufMMo4m84aGYqUUT93gjkhXiuJ9FJ1BJsrg3WsLEAJfzhWXOdYDvONa0_zZ1ZjDed5lXvXAfcYuL3hBr2EaSSDf0D460ozoUDwKbb-2FjT8/s320/IMG_1962.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Port Jefferson was today’s destination and it has a very well protected harbour with a narrow entrance. The harbour is 1 1/2 miles long and 1/2 a mile wide with a small section set up for mooring balls and a very large area available for anchoring. There is regular ferry boat traffic brining people and cars back and forth to Connecticut as an alternative to driving through New York City to get off of Long Island. </span></div>
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En route to Port Jefferson</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiU7mhcYpYWL1qNwSKtGxXl2FfNoqN8rQ-dqOX40yf0EyDHGPzn82a8YN3mK5KUdJHQ7tAHZPal2HipQd_H7W9tFaUir7NU0jNPoqwSFqP0XTF1VAZMcLIQs05_oFl6E7-tLTspez-htzw/s1600/IMG_1965.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiU7mhcYpYWL1qNwSKtGxXl2FfNoqN8rQ-dqOX40yf0EyDHGPzn82a8YN3mK5KUdJHQ7tAHZPal2HipQd_H7W9tFaUir7NU0jNPoqwSFqP0XTF1VAZMcLIQs05_oFl6E7-tLTspez-htzw/s320/IMG_1965.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Port Jefferson is a picturesque waterside village that has been revived from its industrial days and long history as a shipbuilding community in the 1800’s. We spent the afternoon exploring the village, where Fran found a salon to get a hair cut. Later, we joined Bob, Jan and Paul, a long time friend of Bob’s who lives on Long Island, for dinner at the Steam House, a local seafood restaurant. Once again, the wind died, a lovely sunset emerged and we enjoyed a quiet evening at anchor.</span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-font-kerning: none;">Port Jefferson</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhODniY5ilhKzheahUifjRDeWCoIjs2_zVlpL6FbaYRCLO6i6gOlqdbRo3E7Gm-nMjfATdTJ-yJ0zsCDgfFEH_zb-3x-JojkgXf1H6T74_rAOff81ShjcQEYNJrpI3ROxPeGgf-Drltoc8/s1600/IMG_1971.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhODniY5ilhKzheahUifjRDeWCoIjs2_zVlpL6FbaYRCLO6i6gOlqdbRo3E7Gm-nMjfATdTJ-yJ0zsCDgfFEH_zb-3x-JojkgXf1H6T74_rAOff81ShjcQEYNJrpI3ROxPeGgf-Drltoc8/s320/IMG_1971.JPG" width="320" /></a> </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Thursday July 6, 2017</b>: Our next stop along Long Island is Oyster Bay. We had an overcast day, but light wind and modest waves, so it was a very comfortable run. While underway, New York City was gradually coming into view, far off in the distance. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Oyster Bay was boyhood home to Theodore Roosevelt, the 26th President of the US and location of his “summer white house”. It is also home to John Gotti, former boss of the Gambino crime family and singer, songwriter Billy Joel. Oyster Bay is a very pretty and well maintained town. Upon arrival on shore we were first greeted by the Roosevelt Memorial Park on the waterfront, followed by a railway track and the commuter train station for those who make the daily trek into New York city to work. There are lots of Roosevelt things identified in town including his “boyhood Presbyterian Church”, a statue, the local voting station Roosevelt voted at while a politician in the early 1900’s etc. </span></div>
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President Roosevelt</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjire2iyZnZWt-eug5X4XteowHEq4FaqzfQo0KeFLSTJJcIDXHNWVox6-1z9tH67rEnd9-f0-nJCAdMOHOwOcLyOef8d9L0Ic1VxDCMBPhXvLy0crgrw_MTJP5HDIKaP60dbC1HsdE7LDw/s1600/IMG_6947.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjire2iyZnZWt-eug5X4XteowHEq4FaqzfQo0KeFLSTJJcIDXHNWVox6-1z9tH67rEnd9-f0-nJCAdMOHOwOcLyOef8d9L0Ic1VxDCMBPhXvLy0crgrw_MTJP5HDIKaP60dbC1HsdE7LDw/s320/IMG_6947.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">We enjoyed a lovely walk about town, a light lunch at Spinnakers Restaurant and Fran & Jan found a nail salon for pedicures! Later, as the sun came out, we took a dinghy cruise through the West Harbour and under the lift bridge to Oak Neck. There were certainly many fine homes to view along the way reminding us that the Great Gatsby was filmed on Long Island.This was a great stop and a very well protected anchorage. </span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-font-kerning: none;">Oyster Bay - one of many local homes</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Friday July 7, 2017</b>: Well, it was unrealistic for those lovely sunny summer days to continue indefinitely. It is a cloudy, drizzly day and heavier rain is forecast. But the wind is 15 knots from the east (behind us) providing for a reasonably comfortable ride to our next destination of Port Washington. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">This is a favourite stop for boaters heading west to New York City and planning to transit the East River and Hell Gate to Battery Park. This transit through New York City has very strong currents and one needs to time your start properly to enjoy a comfortable ride. Currents at Hell Gate can reach 5 knots. The East River current is the exact opposite of Long Island Sound current. East River current ebbs west and floods east, while Long Island Sound current ebbs east and floods west. Interestingly, the name Hell Gate is a corruption of the Dutch word Hellegat, meaning “bright passage”. That make it sound a little better, I think…</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Port Washington is only five miles to the start of the East River making it easy for boats to stay here and wait for an opportune time to start their transit. We’d also been advised by Lee and by other boaters that there are free mooring balls for visitors to Port Washington. There are no mooring ropes on the mooring balls and we had some difficulty getting our mooring line through the relatively small shackle on the top of the mooring ball in a stiff wind. Fran finally came up with the best solution and executed it flawlessly. Shortly afterwards, the heavy rain and wind started and provided for the most wonderful boat wash that was so badly needed. As the sky finally brightened and the rain stopped, Fran, Bob and Jan headed off to town while I stayed back to give Tug’n a good wipe down. Eventually, the wind fully died and the sun came out and all was idillic again. However, just before sunset, dark clouds emerged from the west and we were hit by more heavy rain (another welcome boat rinse!)</span></div>
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Adventures of Fran and Stephenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13217182448252927451noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1905445316771270903.post-83355343604485573672017-07-02T14:13:00.001-07:002017-07-02T14:13:37.591-07:00PREPARING FOR THE CAPE COD CANAL CROSSING & ON TO RHODE ISLAND<div style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 11px; line-height: normal; text-align: center;">
<b style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;">(Maine, New Hampshire, Massachusetts, Rhode Island )</b></div>
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Here is our route for this blog pos<span style="font-size: 11px;">t</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOkspSwlJRyIH-g9doRWUtgM5Hjg-Jm6E76zdVyv8p3AxWlX4K0-V5AR90_jZatZxX6Vqlt3qT0xbTVNs82tzAPHCaE1QNuDn6Auq8k9XCqI3u-7AOCdDVZgjL3tp_SpX9GtxTCNPyUKU/s1600/Screen+Shot+2017-07-01+at+7.37.42+PM.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="269" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOkspSwlJRyIH-g9doRWUtgM5Hjg-Jm6E76zdVyv8p3AxWlX4K0-V5AR90_jZatZxX6Vqlt3qT0xbTVNs82tzAPHCaE1QNuDn6Auq8k9XCqI3u-7AOCdDVZgjL3tp_SpX9GtxTCNPyUKU/s320/Screen+Shot+2017-07-01+at+7.37.42+PM.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Saturday June 24, 2017</b>: Another fabulous sunny morning greeted us. Our run today was from York Harbour to Newburyport, a distance of just over 24 nautical miles. Our departure was timed for high tide slack water (about noon) so we should not have to worry about the strong current in the river. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Newburyport Harbour is located on the Merrimack River, about 3 1/2 miles up from the river’s entrance. As we approached the river, we could see miles of beautiful sand beach along the shore, accompanied by spectacular homes. The closer we got, we could see lots of people on the beaches enjoying this first sunny Saturday following the end of school the previous day. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Cruising guides warn that with adverse winds, this entrance into the Merrimack River can be very treacherous. There is a light on a 47’ tower at the entrance and when the coast guard have it flashing it is considered to be unsafe to enter or exit. There is a destroyed remains of a hull sitting on the break wall as a reminder to all as to what can happen.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">For us, while the wind was relatively light, the strong outgoing tide and river current from the narrow river caused substantial “standing waves” at the mouth of the river. This, combined with an endless stream of boats (speed boats, sail boats, fishing boats, slow boats like us, recreational fishing boats criss crossing the narrow channel etc), it was chaos! While we’d booked a mooring ball, upon arrival at Newburyport and seeing the strong current, we changed our minds at the last minute and opted for a dock. A harbourmaster dock hand did a terrific job helping us land, handling our registration and giving us a rundown on the old port area. </span></div>
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Shoreline homes / mansions</div>
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Tuna fishing boat with harpooning platform at bow</div>
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Entrance to Newburyport can be treacherous </div>
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Tug'n at Newburyport Harbour</div>
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Beaches near entrance to Newburyport </div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Newburyport is a small city of just over 17,000 with a rich, history as a seaport that was first settled in 1635. In the early days, fishing and shipbuilding were its primary industries. In the late 1800’s, Merrimack Arms & Brown manufactured the famous Derringer pistols. Newburyport also developed a whaling operation as did many east coast fishing ports. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Newburyport was also active in the underground railroad, rescuing blacks from slavery and the community was an early adopter of the abolitionist movement. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Following a relaxing happy hour aboard Wings, we set off to explore the old port area and make a reservation at the Sea Level Restaurant. Newburyport has done a magnificent job of breathing life into what was a rundown section of the community. The old port area is now thriving with a waterfront park, new harbour front docks, moorings, washrooms and showers, renovated / restored historical buildings, restaurants, boutiques, bakeries, ice cream shops, galleries, playgrounds and more. On this first Saturday following the end of the school year, the old port was packed with people enjoying the fine weather, watching the boats or getting out on the water on tour boats. It was great fun exploring the downtown and building up an appetite for a terrific seafood dinner at the Sea Level restaurant. The challenging navigation of the river and docking was well worth the effort.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Sunday June 25, 2017</b>: We were up early and I took advantage of the dock and water supply to give Tug’n a good wash to remove as much of the dried salt water spray on the hull, deck and cabin as I could, followed by a wipe down. After filling our water tank and having a brief crew meeting with Bob and Jan, we bid adieu to Newburyport and were on our way to Manchester by the Sea under a cloudless sky, warm temperatures and an ocean that for much of the run was windless and almost smooth (just a light ocean swell). Who knew the Atlantic Ocean could be so comfortable? Exiting the Merrimack River was almost as chaotic as our arrival with a flood tide meeting the river current and all manner of boats making their way in and out of the river in a very haphazard manner. For others thinking of stopping at Newburyport by boat, we’d recommend a weekday.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">To reach Manchester by the Sea, you have to head out around Cape Ann peninsula and the seaport of Gloucester to the well protected Manchester Bay and the town of just over 5,000. Like many communities along the New England shores, Manchester by the Sea was first settled in the early 1600’s and thrived for over 200 years as a fishing community. However, starting in 1845, Manchester by the Sea began to become the summer colony of choice for Boston society. Its lovely shoreside summer homes (mansions) certainly provides great eye candy for those on boats moored at the Manchester Yacht Club. We felt like royalty receiving a free night’s mooring and having the club tender take us over to the town dock to explore the downtown, pick up some provisions (and a delicious ice cream from Dusty’s) and then get a lift back to our boat in the mooring field. Wonderful treatment. </span></div>
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A fun float at entrance to Manchester by the Sea</div>
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Lots of moorings at Manchester by the Sea</div>
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Lovely homes around the harbour</div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Today, most of us think of the movie when we hear the name “Manchester by the Sea”, but our driver on the yacht club tender was quick to point out that the movie does not present the town in a good light and in fact many of the scenes in the film were done in other communities. Indeed, we found he was correct - the town is quite lovely, quaint, picturesque and fun to explore. It is well worth a stop by boat or by car.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Fran bought a coconut crusted haddock fillet in town that we cooked on the BBQ that night. What a wonderful treat. Afterwards, we managed to connect to the yacht club wifi and watch the last two episodes of Season 5 of “Call the Midwife” on Netflix. For anyone who hasn’t seen it, this is a terrific show. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Monday June 26, 2017</b>: Late last night, we were hit with a 20 minute squall; l with winds up to 35 knows followed by rain. Thankfully it didn’t last long. It did provide a nice wash of our deck and cabin which I wiped down under this morning’s beautiful sunshine. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">After several days of investigation, along with input from our boating friends Lee and Barb, we finally had a plan for transiting the Cape Cod Canal on Tuesday. More on the canal later, but to prepare for the crossing, we were headed to Scituate, Massachusetts today so we’d be in a good position for entering and transiting the canal.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">En route today, we’d planned a lunch stop at the town of Marblehead, which is famous throughout the yachting world as the “Yachting Capital of America”. Historically, it was a fishing village and today, the harbour maintains a small fleet of lobster and fishing vessels. But now more than ever, it is a key layover port for cruising and racing yachts from the world’s most serious yachting circles. The famous Marblehead-Halifax race alternates with the race starting in Marblehead on even numbered years. Scanning the harbour, one sees a fabulous array of cruising and racing yachts. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">More than that, the people of Marblehead are the most friendly and helpful you could ever want to meet. The Harbourmaster’s Office were wonderfully accommodating, agreeing to letting us tie up our two boats on their dock for a couple of hours while we went ashore for lunch and a brief walk about the town. They pointed us to dine at Maddies Sail Loft for lunch and it turned out to be a restaurant/pub frequented by locals, with a great menu and atmosphere. It was almost empty when we arrived but within a half hour, it was almost full with a group of locals who all knew each other, kind of like walking into a yacht club atmosphere. The food was terrific and extremely reasonable and while we didn’t have any alcohol for lunch, we witnessed a bartender poring the most generous drinks we’ve ever, ever seen. One wonders whether the other patrons ever made it home that afternoon.</span></div>
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Tug'n & Wings in Marblehead at the only dock</div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">We enjoyed our after lunch stroll, visiting a gallery that was running an art class, the Ships Lights’s store and snapping photos of some great examples of well maintained New England architecture in this quaint town. By 1345 hours, we were underway again for Scituate on a very calm ocean. We passed Boston off in the distance, not stopping as Fran, Bob and Jan had already spent time there. We will have to return by car some time so I can see this most famous city. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">In Scituate, right after we were settled on the yacht club’s mooring balls, we took the club tender into town for a visit to the grocery store and a walk about town, before returning to our boat for dinner and an early night. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Tuesday June 27, 2017</b>: Cape Cod canal is a man made canal through the southwest corner of the Cape Cod peninsula, connecting Cape Cod Bay in the north to Buzzards Bay in the south. The canal is 7 miles long, traversing a narrow neck of land that joins Cape Cod to the mainland. For about 14,000 boats per year, it shaves 137 miles off a journey along the coast. It can accommodate vessels up to 825’ long, 135’ high and with 32’ of draft. The tide on the Cape Cod Bay side is 9’ and on the Buzzards Bay side the tide is about 4’ and this difference creates swift moving currents that reach up to 5.2 knots and change direction every six hours. Apparently, the canal is also used by the occasional whale and dolphin. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">In the year 1623, the idea of a canal was first considered by the Pilgrims who scouted the land for potential routes but went no further with the idea. Then in 1717, the Jeremiah Gutter Canal was created, some distance to the east across a narrower portion of the cape and it remained active until the late 1800’s. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">The first attempt to build the canal in its current location happened in the late 19th century, but the organizers ran out of money and the project was not completed. In July 1909, construction of the canal finally restarted on a route taking advantage of, and widening of the Monomet and Scusset Rivers. Work was slowed by mammoth boulders from the ice age that required divers to blow them up. Also, winter storms regularly halted dredging. The canal was finally completed in 1916 as a privately owned toll canal that was 30’ wide and 25’ deep. The canal was so narrow and difficult to navigate, causing numerous accidents and tarnishing its reputation quickly.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">On July 21, 1918, a German U Boat surfaced and sank a tug and four barges in nearby Orleans and this prompted the government to take over operation of the Cape Cod Canal by Presidential Order. The government maintained and dredged the canal until 1920 and then bought it in 1928 to operate as a free waterway. The government undertook widening the canal between 1935 and 1940 to its current 480’ width and 32’ depth. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">During WWII the canal provided safety from U Boat attacks and Patrol Boats and Coastal Artillery provided further protection. On June 28, 1942, a cargo ship grounded and sank in the canal, shutting it down and exposing shipping to increased threat of torpedo attacks. SS Alexander Macomb was torpedoed July 3rd and sunk killing 10. The canal reopened July 31st after the cargo shop was removed with the help of 17 tons of dynamite.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">To transit the canal safely, it was recommended we enter the canal at slack water and take advantage of the current that would begin to flow from east to west shortly afterwards. After some investigation and calling the canal engineers to sort out conflicting information, we determined we needed to start our transit at 1311 hours, so we departed Scituate just after 0900 to time our arrival for slack water, just before the start of the ebb current. We actually arrived five minutes early and faced a small current against us, but it turned in our favour right on time and before long, it was pushing us along at about 3 1/2 knots. The shores of the canal were well used with bicyclists, people walking the shoreline trail, fishermen and more.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">The other key planning factor is ensuring you don’t enter Buzzards Bay when there is a strong SW wind opposing the outgoing current. Knowing this was going to be the case, we heeded another of Lee and Barbara’s recommendations to pull off the dredged canal near the west end and anchor in Onset Bay. Over the last few hours the day had turned cloudy, drizzly and cool and it was a great anchoring recommendation. However, by 1700 hours the sun was back out, the temperature was up and we got to sit out in the cockpit for happy hour. How lovely!</span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-font-kerning: none;">Location of Cape Cod Canal</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjodAQzqiqyVM3W4t8bH4M9napI-SNgmg5PmA6LZNbIQ1hDEFOEIokHasWK0KXv0P-B4ijfYr4JW2qORpn4urht2TMzHguZGBfZklsv9PVEwdw7guCenfY_OKHRlKWDLOCiwBZAeTaBFts/s1600/FullSizeRender-2.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="189" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjodAQzqiqyVM3W4t8bH4M9napI-SNgmg5PmA6LZNbIQ1hDEFOEIokHasWK0KXv0P-B4ijfYr4JW2qORpn4urht2TMzHguZGBfZklsv9PVEwdw7guCenfY_OKHRlKWDLOCiwBZAeTaBFts/s320/FullSizeRender-2.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Wednesday June 28, 2017</b>: The Elizabeth Islands extend about 14 miles off the southwestern end of Cape Cod. They are of varying size and all are privately owned by the Forbes Family, except for Cuttyhunk Island. Cuttyhunk is the westernmost of the island chain and it was named from the Indian word meaning “land’s end”. It was discovered in 1602 by English explorer Bartholomew Gosnold, who proclaimed himself ravished” by its beauty. It presents a primitive island atmosphere and an easy stopover for those en route from the mainland to Martha’s Vineyard. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">We were up at 0500 and underway by 0600 for an early morning run from the Cape Cod Canal to Cuttyhunk Island in the hopes of getting there in time for a mid morning brunch at the Cuttyhunk Fishing Club. This club was founded in 1894 and didn’t open to the public until 1998. It is a rustic club with furnishings, fittings and a ancient library, pretty much just like it was when President Roosevelt make the trek here for a fishing trip. We did in fact make it here in time and enjoyed a superb breakfast while sitting on the front porch looking out over the Elizabeth Islands and Vineyard Sound. It was a completely delightful experience. </span></div>
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Cuttyhunk Harbourmaster's Office</div>
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Cuttyhunk Fishing Club - brunch on porch</div>
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View from the Cuttyhunk Fishing Club porch</div>
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Cuttyhunk Island Postal Service</div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Just as we were paying our bill, we sighted Encore, a Nordic Tug owned by friends Lee and Barb from Rhode Island, who’d come out by boat to meet up with us. We’d met them in Quebec City last year and cruised together right through to the Bras D’or Lake. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Today, we met them in the Cuttyhunk Island harbour after they’d anchored their boat and together went for a hike to the highest point on the island to enjoy a 360 degree view to the surrounding waters and islands. It was really quite a breathtaking view to take in as we chatted and caught up with Lee and Barb. Later we enjoyed happy hour together on Wings and Lee helped us mark possible future anchorages on or charts, right through to New York City. After dinner, we had a further get together on Encore for Barbara’s Strawberry Shortcake - the end to another perfect day.</span></div>
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Dessert aboard Enclore with Lee, Bob, Fran & Barb</div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Thursday June 29, 2017</b>: Today was another early start for the run from Cuttyhunk Island to Newport Harbour in Rhode Island. This is Lee and Barb’s home waters, so we followed them, initially through quite wavy, rolling seas. One knew we were getting close to Newport, the boating mecca of the east coast, as the boats (yachts really) were getting bigger and bigger. Through info we could see on AIS, we passed numerous pleasure craft well over 100’ long. For us, that seemed like an unfathomable amount of pleasure…</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Newport Harbour is massive and I’m sure my heart skipped a few beats as we made our way towards our designated floating dock. It turns out, our stay here coincided with a 40th anniversary rendezvous for owners of Kadey Krogen yachts and they had a very large turnout making their section of the docking look like a boat show. The pictures below will tell you all you need to know about the size of the boating community and boats here in Newport.</span></div>
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Encore following a sailboat near Newport</div>
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Lots of mega yachts</div>
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Wings & Tug'n on a floating dock in Newport</div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Newport is a seaside community founded on Aquidneck Island in Rhode Island in 1639. It is known as a New England summer resort community and it is famous for its mansions. Newport grew rapidly in the 17th and 18th century, its growth spurred on by the arrival of Portuguese Jews who fled persecution in Portugal. They brought capital, business skills, trading contacts and knowledge which helped Newport to become a wealthy trading centre. These immigrants also introduced sperm oil from whaling to the United States. The Aaron Lopez family became fabulously wealthy with 150 ships involved in trade, plus the manufacture of candles, ships, barrels, rum, chocolate, textiles, clothes, shoes, hats and bottles. Rhode Island also became the most active port in all of United States in the slave trade, with 60% of slave-trading sailings launched from this tiny island. Many laws were being broken by this activity and quite a number of Rhode Island families made substantial fortunes in the trade. Many local merchants bought shares in these illegal voyages. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Today, Newport is a major tourist centre and boating centre with every conceivable boating service and expertise available. Also, the downtown is filled with a wonderful array of restaurants and boutiques as well as companies catering to the boating community.</span></div>
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Kadey Krogan Rendezvous</div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Upon our arrival, we were met by Danielle in a Zodiac to help us get to our floating dock / mooring. Later in the day we took a tender across the large harbour to downtown Newport to explore the community. Later we met up with Lee and Barb again for dinner at Lucia Italian Restaurant for a lovely dinner. </span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-font-kerning: none;">Another beauty</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Friday June 30, 2017</b>: As planned, Lee and Barb picked us up by car in the morning and took us on a variety of errands before we did a driving tour of the island to see many of the great mansions, parks and different harbour views. The large mansions were really quite mind boggling, both the size and beauty of the structures and the magnificent landscaping that surrounded them. It was beyond our ability to imagine how a family could live in one of these mansions; we think you would feel like you were wandering around in a luxurious hotel all by yourself. </span></div>
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One of many mega mansions</div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Mid afternoon we said our good byes and thanks to Lee and Barb for all their generous help and were back on our boats with provisions, a full propane tank and a full tummies. What a great time we’d had seeing Newport and catching up with Lee and Barb. </span></div>
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Starting the children young in sailing lessons</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvlWKh3GtQn17D5sPi9yliVbnrmRBcXkU-ps1LkLuO07ox9RjWO9ytOcg-QYeOhitfvttyZwMHTIpe41qmKzvT-bne2hQpU9tE0aEogpuLHvswmK9bH5EujkutKNMdBzTiiGskpGFLxRc/s1600/IMG_1888.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvlWKh3GtQn17D5sPi9yliVbnrmRBcXkU-ps1LkLuO07ox9RjWO9ytOcg-QYeOhitfvttyZwMHTIpe41qmKzvT-bne2hQpU9tE0aEogpuLHvswmK9bH5EujkutKNMdBzTiiGskpGFLxRc/s320/IMG_1888.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Saturday July 1, 2017</b>: </span><span style="-webkit-font-kerning: none; -webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(207, 35, 43); color: #cf232b;">HAPPY CANADA DAY. HAPPY 150TH BIRTHDAY TO CANADA</span><span style="font-kerning: none;">. Fran and I dressed in our Canada 150 T Shirts for the day. We had a FaceTime call to wish our youngest grandchild Alex a Happy 2nd Birthday. We got lots of “Happy Canada Day” wishes from our American Boating friends and it all felt very special. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Today we made our exit from Newport. As strong winds and big waves were dominating Buzzards Bay and Long Island Sound, we headed further into Narragansett Bay to the Prudence Island anchorage. It is a large and popular anchorage and this being a holiday weekend, many boats streamed in here all afternoon as we relaxed at anchor on a rather cloudy and dull day. But its always lovely to swing on the anchor in a well protected anchorage and it put smiles on our faces as we reflected on how lucky we are to be doing what we are doing.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Best wishes to all</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Happy Canada Day!</span></div>
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Adventures of Fran and Stephenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13217182448252927451noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1905445316771270903.post-12534003573912780162017-06-24T06:50:00.000-07:002017-06-24T06:50:15.459-07:00WAITING OUT THE WEATHER IN BOOTHBAY HARBOUR<div style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Helvetica; line-height: normal;">
Shoreline of Maine and our route for this blog post</div>
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<b style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9WV-TPfan9Qt1OMCNCe3ZD7LrbyxaZAPSjdYB5vno4Gj43ylJl3gDSJHAlKfIbR4JqP0CMe86YEMEcDuS_4zsluD5NMKFZbebFtLTBbKROst44CUd3zyz0aVVMCyCkw859ediCuQYMe0/s1600/Screen+Shot+2017-06-23+at+2.13.20+PM.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="204" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9WV-TPfan9Qt1OMCNCe3ZD7LrbyxaZAPSjdYB5vno4Gj43ylJl3gDSJHAlKfIbR4JqP0CMe86YEMEcDuS_4zsluD5NMKFZbebFtLTBbKROst44CUd3zyz0aVVMCyCkw859ediCuQYMe0/s320/Screen+Shot+2017-06-23+at+2.13.20+PM.png" width="320" /></a></b></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Sunday June 18, 2017 Continued from the previous blog post:</b> Well, the fog would periodically lift for a short while and then fill in as thick as ever, so we stayed aboard Tug’n most of the day, busying ourselves with odd chores amid phone calls with Happy Fathers’ Day wishes and wonderful smells of Fran’s cooking. Periodically we’d look for weather updates, but fog, higher winds and growing waves were all we could see in our near future. We launched our dinghy to join Bob and Jan on Wings for Happy Hour and later, a trip to the marina facilities for showers. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Monday and Tuesday June 19 and 20, 2017</b>: Not much change in the weather. On Monday, we had very strong winds through the harbour with quite a chop making us raise our dinghy every evening. Monday we spend a few hours doing more walking around Boothbay Harbour. We visited a gallery/shop with the most unique collection of things we’d never seen. We’re beyond the stage of wanting to collect more “stuff” but this shop really did have some tempting objects d’art begging to be held and purchased.</span></div>
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Beautiful / Unusual Object d'Art</div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDVnztC6mb1tNBxXpQOJudY2wgTRNk9ds0FuZvvrKzWZrU9GZUqCPDmDvzwi0rLnxgYRgisu0CLbg6EQIKxzWegQJZjppQnaDc7UYqKJLpF2EcdSSjk6uTFiUPy19LDPs9Q9ulZX3sAcc/s1600/IMG_6675.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDVnztC6mb1tNBxXpQOJudY2wgTRNk9ds0FuZvvrKzWZrU9GZUqCPDmDvzwi0rLnxgYRgisu0CLbg6EQIKxzWegQJZjppQnaDc7UYqKJLpF2EcdSSjk6uTFiUPy19LDPs9Q9ulZX3sAcc/s320/IMG_6675.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Lunch Tuesday was at The Boathouse Bistro where we shared a Lobster Club. While the service was mediocre, the lobster was cooked perfectly and was terrific. As we’d split the lunch we felt completely justified in returning to Kailer’s for another piece of warm blueberry pie and ice cream that we’d enjoyed so much a few days ago. Once again, it was a heavenly experience…</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Later, we managed to get reasonably close to the site of a rebuilding of a wooden schooner to take a few photos. It was a very impressive site and it is marvellous that the tradesmen skills for this type of work are still alive and well. It is hard to imagine the expense of such an endeavour.</span></div>
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Schooner Rebuild</div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Wednesday is looking like our weather window to start moving further southwest along Maine’s coast as the forecast shows the winds subside and the waves are down to the 4 foot range. In the meantime, we’ve had very strong winds right through the harbour. Thankfully, the shape of the harbour has kept most of the wave action away from us.</span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-font-kerning: none;">Panoramic shot of Boothbay Harbour</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Wednesday June 21, 2017</b>: Its the summer solstice (longest daylight hours of the year). Here the sun rose at 4:59am and it sets at 8:26pm - that’s 15 hours and 27 minutes. What a wonderful thing. Back at home in Oakville, Ontario sunrise today is at 5:38 and sunset at 9:03 for a total of 15 hours and 25 minutes. So we got an extra two minutes of daylight in Maine and we enjoyed every one of them.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Today we cruised from Boothbay Harbour to Portland, Maine. We had a 10 to 15 knot breeze and 1.2 meter swells on our beam that were quite well spread out. The occasional swell was about 2 meters, but all in all, it was very comfortable. We saw far more lobster boats than pleasure craft, but the closer we got to Portland, the more pleasure craft we saw out on the water. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Portland, with a population of almost 67,000 is Maine’s largest city. The Greater Portland Area has a population of over half a million people, more than one-third of Maine’s total population. Originally, the peninsula Portland is located on, was settled in 1632 as a fishing and trading village named Casco. When the Massachusetts Bay Colony took over Casco Bay in 1658, the town’s name changed to Falmouth. The town of Falmouth was destroyed multiple times in various conflicts. On October 18, 1775 in its final destruction, Falmouth was burned to the ground in the Revolution by the Royal Navy. Following its rebuilding, it was initially named The Neck and it began growing as a commercial port and shipping centre. In 1786, the citizens of the former area called Falmouth formed a separate town and named it Portland, after the Isle of Portland off the coast of Dorset, England. In 1820, when Maine became a state, Portland was its capital, but 12 years later the capital was noted north to Augusta. In 1851, Maine led the nation by passing the first state law prohibiting the sale of alcohol except for “medicinal, mechanical or manufacturing purposes”. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">In 1853, upon completion of the Grand Trunk Railway to Montreal, Portland became the primary ice-free winter seaport for Canadian exports and in the process became a significant railway hub and shipping port. Following nationalization of the Grand Trunk is system in 1923, Canadian export traffic was diverted from Portland to Halifax, Nova Scotia, causing a significant decline in the Portland economy.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Portland’s “Old Port” area went through a major transformation in the 1970’s when developers bought up derelict buildings and refurbished them into apartments, condos, offices and retail space. The “Old Port Association” was formed and they helped halt the city’s demolition of historic buildings. The end result is a wonderful district with cobblestone streets, renovated 19th century historic buildings, restaurants, boutiques and offices. Today it is a magnet for people and tourists, boats, marinas, yacht clubs as well as commercial vessels and lobster boats. </span></div>
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Two tugs in Old Port </div>
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Tug with extra tall "bridge" used when pushing a barge </div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">The Centerboard Yacht Club (CYC) was the most economical downtown choice for us on the South Portland side of the harbour. A terrific staff of young people operate the tenders to bring you ashore from the mooring ball. They kindly took us across the Fore River to Portland’s Old Port where we spend about three hours wandering the streets, window shopping and exploring. We had a desire for a hamburger for lunch and found a place (new to us) called Elevation Burgers. Their ads of grass fed beef, ground fresh on site and Peak Organic Beer won us over and it turned out to be an excellent choice. Later, we were repeat after an ice cream from Mount Desert Ice Cream. We met some lovely people at CYC in their lovely clubhouse, learning that the clubhouse was brand new this year. We can highly recommend the club with its reasonably well protected moorings and its great view of Portland across the narrow river.</span></div>
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CYC Tender bringing us back from the "Old Port"</div>
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CYC Yacht Club</div>
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Schooner entering Portland Harbour</div>
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Sunset over the Old Port </div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Thursday June 22nd, 2017</b>: Bob & Jan weren’t with us last night. They needed to replace their dinghy as their old one, at 16 years, was past its “best before” date and multiple seams were failing. They’d ordered a new Zodiac from a dealer in Yarmouth, Maine and spend last night there, with a plan to meet the dealer this morning and make the switch. Hopefully we’ll meet up at the next stop.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">We woke up to a beautiful morning. The deck was covered with dew, which had dissolved all the dried salt spray from yesterday’s run. A rinse with our fresh water wash-down hose and a wipe made our decks, cabin and windows look and feel fresh again.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">We were underway by 0920 for Biddeford Pool or Wood Island Harbour. It was a picture perfect day on the water with a light 10 knot breeze from the SW plus a < 1 meter ocean swell from the south, which was all very comfortable (at least for cruising on the open ocean). We passed mostly lobster boats, one fishing trawler and a couple of pleasure craft and dramatically fewer lobster pot floats. Biddeford Pool is a reasonably well protected basin made by Wood Island, Stage Island and Fletcher Neck. Biddeford Pool Yacht Club is further in, through a narrow channel but we found the Pool to be suitably calm and chose to anchor there. It is a very pretty location with lovely homes around the perimeter and a large beach to the north. Here it feels like the boating season is well underway as sailboats and small fishing boats are coming and going regularly from the yacht club. </span></div>
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Stage Island Monument </div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Stage Island has an unusual cone shaped monument with an interesting story. There had been so many shipwrecks on Stage Island’s shallow waters, as the shoreline in this area was quite nondescript, so the government decided a “day mark” was needed as an aid to navigation. In 1825, they awarded the $1,200 contract to three Portland stone masons, specifying the tower be 60’ tall. It was to be built from stones blasted from the shores of Stage Island. The tower reached 54’ when tragedy struck. The foundation had not been built on solid stone and when it gave way, the tower collapsed killing one of the three contractors and injuring three other workmen. The remaining two contractors were held responsible to rebuild the tower at their own expense. The second tower was successful and once completed, it was painted white. Today, the white paint is long gone and it is no longer considered an aid to navigation. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">In the 1800’s the island was used for grazing sheep, for drying fish plus a two family home was built there in the mid 1800’s. It was owned by two fishermen brothers and their families. One of their son’s was Waldo Verrill, born in 1858. He went on to become a lobsterman and a highly regarded Poet, publishing over 200 poems. Waldo was also an eloquent speaker and lecturer, who never strayed far from home. In a reminiscing article Waldo wrote in 1930 on lobstering in the early days, he said:</span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-font-kerning: none; font-family: Helvetica; line-height: normal;">“</span><span style="font-kerning: none;"><i>Maybe it was 55 years ago I started in the Lobster business here, I operated the smack Etta B. Rich between here and Portland. There was no well in the craft but lobsters were so plentiful and the run was so short, we got along all right without one. I would frequently take from 600-800 lobsters in two or three hours that would average two pounds or more a piece. I also bought from other lobstermen. Maine’s lobster business really started here at the Pool. Uncle Frank Verrill began way back, he would fill an 18 foot boat to the gun-whales and he did not save a lobster that weighed less than 2 pounds. That was the smallest while most of them weighed 3 or 4 pounds. Today, the demand is for the one-pound nine inch (sic) Canadian lobsters which have almost ruined our fisherman and their markets. </i></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><i> There used to be wonderful fishing right around the river mouth. The mackerel fleet all came in here, but it was the herring that made things hum. I have seen as high as 200 sail of herring fisherman anchored off there in Winter Harbor. The buyers used to speculate in herring just as one might in wheat or corn. Sometimes a big catch would change hands several times without being moved from the vessel. Fortunes were made and also lost in the business--Waldo Verrill" </i></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Regulations have changed dramatically and lobstermen report they only keep about 1 in 10 lobsters from their traps due to the narrow size range they are allowed to harvest, plus no female lobsters are taken. Their strategy seems to be working as the industry is thriving and the lobsters are well fed and reproducing rapidly. However, an article sent to me by my friend Bob in Poland talks about changes to the timing of lobster moulting (shedding their shells as they grow) due to warming of the ocean and the author wonders whether the strong controls Maine has in place will be enough for the long term health of the lobster fishery.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Later in the afternoon we launched our dinghy and explored the community of Biddeford Pool. We visited the yacht club, the local general store and did some beach combing at low tide while neighbourhood children with bathing suits on, played about in the shallow 14 degree C water. </span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-font-kerning: none;">Sunset at Biddeford Pool</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Bob and Jan aboard Wings made it to the harbour by 1830 hours having obtained their new dinghy. As the late day wind died down for a quite evening, we had brief discussions with Bob and Jan confirming plans to depart at 0730 tomorrow for York Harbour.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Friday June 23, 2017</b>: We were up and underway by 0730 with very light winds and a modestly rolling sea for our 25 nautical mile run from Biddeford to York Harbour. It was a pleasant and uneventful run with the highlight being passing a 102 Windjammer named SSV Harvey Gamage from Portland Maine. This schooner is dedicated to your programs on the water and she looked extremely well cared for. </span></div>
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SSV Harvey Gamage </div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">York Harbour has a narrow dog leg kind of entrance and we’d read during flood and ebb tides the current can run as much as 4.5 knots, so we timed our arrival at high tide and secured mooring balls from the town in the small basin. It is a very attractive harbour and both sides of the shoreline before the harbour and further on up the York River were lined with exquisite homes nestled among large trees with lovely landscaped properties. A very friendly harbour master came out to ensure we got safely secured to the mooring ball and to process our paperwork and collect our mooring fee. He also volunteered to drive one of us to Hanaford’s Grocery and as Jan had the longer list, she took him up on the offer and took Fran’s list to shop for us at the same time.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Bob and Jan launched and successfully tested out their new dinghy but managed to get soaked in a fairly heavy downpour. After they dried off, the sun came out again and they joined us for happy hour as we discussed tonight and tomorrow’s weather and our destination options for tomorrow.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">What a night we had with the evening flood tide while moored in the York Harbour river. We faced the full brunt of the 4.5 knot current with both our boats swirling back and forth, often burying the mooring ball 1 1/2' below the water's surface. The force of the water was so strong, our prop shaft began spinning (free wheeling), which is not good as the shaft seal was not getting its usual water lubrication from the engine. To stop the free wheeling, after a few attempts I managed to get a line around one of the shaft coupler bolts and secured it to one of the very stout engine mounts. As the current continued to batter us, I regretted putting the mooring line over a bow cleat instead of the much heavier bollard. I set the alarm for 2330 hours, just after high tide, so we could relocate the mooring line making it more secure for the next flood tide beginning at dawn. In the morning, we learned Bob on Wings got up at 0230 hours as their mooring ball was banging against the side of their hull in the slack water. When up on the bow of Wings, he noticed our two boats were starting to swing together (stern to stern) and he dashed back to the cockpit and managed to separate them when they were only one foot apart. Then he lined the stern of their boat with fenders in case the two boats came together again. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">We continue to learn...</span></div>
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Wing's mooring ball pulled under the water</div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggRk_F8lJq6EPTAEt8zFem2mUBn_oPd7LZ5dO1B2hdt_CwCfmAiiQBbNtxyFVa15pOF4Kh_6f_HN_zFVRN8YvlhlIUOtjGvlD5XgfQQQ5mJhi3DdkHfKw0R9y27vexWHpuIjnLsYaXUKs/s1600/IMG_6733.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggRk_F8lJq6EPTAEt8zFem2mUBn_oPd7LZ5dO1B2hdt_CwCfmAiiQBbNtxyFVa15pOF4Kh_6f_HN_zFVRN8YvlhlIUOtjGvlD5XgfQQQ5mJhi3DdkHfKw0R9y27vexWHpuIjnLsYaXUKs/s320/IMG_6733.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-font-kerning: none;">Two light houses from today. We love lighthouses!</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwEe4Mccm3UTiZVMxavN-EANyWPKz0btjxFHajZIwIWOpagOQb5KWgiRZiDWrz_oOpWHaXiry1lNTP38H8fTwlcFDqJLqiYmPhCsv-ow4jCKMN-Vq_USa2HGKc3M4iVE_PDAwsJxqeeCY/s1600/IMG_1829.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwEe4Mccm3UTiZVMxavN-EANyWPKz0btjxFHajZIwIWOpagOQb5KWgiRZiDWrz_oOpWHaXiry1lNTP38H8fTwlcFDqJLqiYmPhCsv-ow4jCKMN-Vq_USa2HGKc3M4iVE_PDAwsJxqeeCY/s400/IMG_1829.JPG" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtHtCMxj86ZeXGz6xkPrRSVCKLuP5YmehzUqCqKx6nhhMlev3_Zr02GQhdj-RmToFs68Xjw_jxh_Fa2D1keO4LnqieYKhU8sQrrcmmy6ep1tPCMYJxri486uC7K6AVIJwMk70WKoN045w/s1600/IMG_1838.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtHtCMxj86ZeXGz6xkPrRSVCKLuP5YmehzUqCqKx6nhhMlev3_Zr02GQhdj-RmToFs68Xjw_jxh_Fa2D1keO4LnqieYKhU8sQrrcmmy6ep1tPCMYJxri486uC7K6AVIJwMk70WKoN045w/s320/IMG_1838.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
Adventures of Fran and Stephenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13217182448252927451noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1905445316771270903.post-51085685961388040392017-06-18T07:47:00.001-07:002017-06-18T07:47:11.620-07:00ROCKLAND, BOOTHBAY & BEYOND<div style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 11px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>(Remember - you can click on any picture to see a larger version)</b></span></div>
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Here's a map of the coast of Maine & our route for this post.</div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr6OMR1Hlpo__VSbXfeGVx1iCE-3fj9zwVWSoheaQzjhtPvE44Lim6rAvwOoiSOM7h9eKED44xD2IMPqiWskw4ctKK4YraErMUML7w1ljM75WBsFOg8tFda_gkwArAkeQH-3R3JREY7Zo/s1600/FullSizeRender.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="232" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr6OMR1Hlpo__VSbXfeGVx1iCE-3fj9zwVWSoheaQzjhtPvE44Lim6rAvwOoiSOM7h9eKED44xD2IMPqiWskw4ctKK4YraErMUML7w1ljM75WBsFOg8tFda_gkwArAkeQH-3R3JREY7Zo/s320/FullSizeRender.jpg" width="320" /></a></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Wednesday June 14, 2017</b>: It was another beautiful morning in Camden and we are feeling this weather could become habit forming. We ventured over to the dinghy dock around 0900 for a little exploring around downtown Camden before meeting up with Bob and Jan for brunch at Boynton & McKay Restaurant. It was a fine recommendation from Charlie, a very friendly and helpful staff member at Wayfarer Marine. Upon entry, Fran and I were studying the blackboard menu when three friendly bikers whose dolled up Harley Davidson’s were out front, spoke up and raved about their breakfast choices. Their recommendations influenced us to order the “Two Eggs & Slow Cooked Beef Brisket on a Bed of Local Greens”. Fran also ordered their Blueberry Pancakes and Crispy Bacon and as is our usual practice, we shared the choices 50/50. What a first class breakfast. I’m making myself hungry again, just writing about it.</span></div>
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Camden's Harbour</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJ9jcSMpbh1P6s3e4Gxe5WKMgSHXDzKJ-_I2v-RvDRvQYQDsUi0G3Ak3Id0iG7HunozksvMOEQCsYSXNCfEHU9MdL43Ve2_je-gSkOlfeTvJdxq4Cmg5ih_VTlrgGEazTbQ6Yp7Q9z4Qc/s1600/IMG_6612.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJ9jcSMpbh1P6s3e4Gxe5WKMgSHXDzKJ-_I2v-RvDRvQYQDsUi0G3Ak3Id0iG7HunozksvMOEQCsYSXNCfEHU9MdL43Ve2_je-gSkOlfeTvJdxq4Cmg5ih_VTlrgGEazTbQ6Yp7Q9z4Qc/s320/IMG_6612.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Later, we met up with Ben Ellison again and he very generously provided us with wiring for two solutions to my cell phone signal booster, which I hope will work when we are in an area with some AT&T signal we can actually boost!! Thank’s very much Ben</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Afterwards, we made a brief stop at the Camden Yacht Club dock to rinse off a rather thick layer of pollen on our decks, followed by a holding tank pump out at Wayfarer Marine and then we headed off to Rockland, Maine, a further 9 nautical miles down the western shore of Penobscot Bay. </span></div>
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Cruise Ship in Camden's Harbour</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilz2aVgg3ZtFZj46Y-hrhYSsPLlur-f3hhFwuAbWlRUbNAhuUa_tO92IJ8x0C_Hq5TeNM-fHhl9PBrEhKyNmRjTzBHptjV7Cv3l8WZthtqBozxwOl5TMJ71T8vNMZbL4ftaMp0V8g2K7k/s1600/IMG_6620.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilz2aVgg3ZtFZj46Y-hrhYSsPLlur-f3hhFwuAbWlRUbNAhuUa_tO92IJ8x0C_Hq5TeNM-fHhl9PBrEhKyNmRjTzBHptjV7Cv3l8WZthtqBozxwOl5TMJ71T8vNMZbL4ftaMp0V8g2K7k/s320/IMG_6620.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Boating friends Laurie and John on Nordic Tug “Mirto”, whom we’d met last summer in Rimouski, Quebec had called us recently to see if we could meet up. They keep their boat in Rockland and they were about to head out for a week of cruising in Penobscot Bay. They very kindly offered to let us use a mooring ball they have that was not in use this week and upon arrival in Rockland Harbour, we spend a while cruising up and down the aisles of mooring balls looking for one with their name on it. We are still learning how to approach and connect to mooring balls and this attempt was not the most elegant, but we managed. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Thursday June 15, 2017</b>: The sun is shining again this morning, putting smiles on our faces. Rockland is the home port of a number of the great Windjammers in Penobscot Bay and there was one in particular we were interested in seeing - The Heritage, a 95 foot schooner, that was in port today. The Heritage is a 95’ long, 24’ wide schooner build by Captain Doug Lee and launched in 1982 as a purpose built vessel to accommodate passengers in comfortable lodgings while coastal cruising in Maine and giving customers an authentic schooner sailing experience. Unlike some of the older, converted “working boat” schooners, the Heritage has full headroom and plenty of below deck space for comfort. Her more traditional elements are, she operates without a motor (they use one of their tenders with a motor as a “push boat”); they cook for the 36 guests and 9 crew on a wood burning cast iron stove/oven and the sailing rig is an all authentic traditional schooner rig. We had a fantastic one week cruise aboard The Heritage in 1997, 20 years ago this summer. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">After breakfast, we headed off to see the Heritage and found three crew aboard her on their day off. Captains Doug and Linda were not on board, but the crew kindly invited us aboard for a visit and we got to look about and marvel at how well she has been maintained. At 35 years old, she looked magnificent. Wandering about her decks made our hearts beat just a little faster imaging her under full sail making good speed in a 20 knot wind….</span></div>
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Pics of the Heritage</div>
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Cast Iron Stove in The Heritage's Galley</div>
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One of 2 small cannons aboard The Heritage</div>
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Daydreaming....</div>
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Heavy duty gear for anchoring</div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Afterwards we headed off to Journey’s End Marina to find John and Laurie aboard Mirto. Later that morning, Wings arrived in port and the six of us went off to lunch at Cafe Miranda for a wonderful meal. We are continuing our tradition of trying out the local chowder along the coast and today’s Haddock Chowder was right up there with the best. Over lunch John and Laurie answered all kinds of our questions about our route down to New York and up the Hudson River that will be very beneficial in the weeks to come. It was great to be able to spend these few hours together with John and Laurie and we’re hopeful they will make the trek to Georgian Bay and the North Channel in the next season or two from now. </span></div>
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Lunch at Cafe Miranda with Bob, Jan, John & Laurie</div>
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What a great Haddock Chowder looks like</div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">We spent the balance of the afternoon exploring Rockland and picking up a few provisions, including a magnificent, small blueberry and peach pie with a crumble topping from the Atlantic Bakery Company. Wow, what a treat that was.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Friday June 16, 2017</b>: As we contemplate moving out of Penobscot Bay and moving further down the coast of Maine, weather forecasts become more important as the open ocean conditions need to be taken into account. Today looks like the best travel day of the next few days so we were off our mooring and under way by 0645 hours for a 37 nautical mile run to Boothbay Harbour, under cloudy skies with a light drizzle. It was comfortable for the most part with some rolling sections from waves on our beam. The most protected part of the harbour from the forecast strong winds was at the Tug Boat Inn (appropriate for us in a boat named Tug’n). We took a mooring ball very close to their docks for very easy access to the downtown Boothbay. </span></div>
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Antique cars in Boothbay Harbour</div>
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Fran taking a break in the lap of a local moose</div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Boothbay Harbour’s economy is primarily driven by tourism as crowds arrive to go on boat tours to coastal islands, go on whale watching outings, art galleries, boutiques and restaurants. Special events include “Schooner Days” when the Penobscot Bay fleet all descent on Boothbay Harbour.l Earlier in its history, in the mid 1800’s, the town was a significant fishing centre. In bad weather it could hold 400 to 500 vessels seeking refuge. It had a fishery, a fish oil company, an ice company, two marine railways, a fertilizer manufacturer and a factory for canning lobsters. During WW11 and up to the 1950’s, the town build mine sweepers for the US Navy</span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 11px;">After lunch on board Tug'n, we went ashore to register with the Tug Boat Inn and explore the town. While the town clearly caters to the tourist trade, the streets are loaded with a wide range of boutiques, shops and restaurants and we had a lovely time wondering about and stretching our legs before retreating back to Tug’n</span><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 11px;"> </span><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 11px;">the as the rain began falling again.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Saturday June 17, 2017</b>: We’d had quite a bit of rain overnight, which is always welcome as it rinses our decks and they demand a wipe down in the morning, making Tug’n look her best. Gradually the sun emerged and it became quite warm as we headed ashore to do more exploring before our pre arranged lunch out. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">One of our first stops was a shop called Eventide Specialties who carry the most amazing selection of Extra Virgin Olive Oils from around the world, fused and infused olive oils, specialty olive oils and aged balsamic condiments in endless flavours etc etc. Initially, it was a little overwhelming when you stared at the five or six dozen stainless steel containers from which you could draw samples to taste. We really did not know where to start until one of the sales staff took us under her wing and got us a couple of samples and explained the contents of the cards on each one. The flavours caused us to emit many oohs and wows as we sampled their wares, eventually selecting a few purchases for our galley. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Lunch today was at Kaler’s, “Your Local Crab & Lobster House”. Yelp reviewers raved about their award winning Spicy Lobster Corn Chowder, so that is what we ordered, along with their Shrimp & Lobster Cakes. Both were breathtakingly good. Thankfully we still had room to share a piece of their blueberry pie and vanilla ice cream. It too was among the best we’d ever had (that’s two seniors who've tasted a lot of blueberry pies in their lives). It was really great! This boating and eating out in local seafood restaurants could get habit forming…</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">We spend another few hours exploring downtown Boothbay Harbour before returning to the boat and later, enjoying a game of Sequence with Bob and Jan over a happy hour refreshment. We also discussed the next leg of our journey, deciding on Basin Cove at Potts Harbour for its great protection from strong south east winds and over 2 meter waves forecast for Monday and Tuesday. The entrance to Basin Cove is rather shallow, so we decided we’d be best to enter it closer to high tide than low, necessitating an early start, so we planned on leaving at 0630 hours tomorrow. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Sunday June 18, 2017</b>: Happy Fathers’ Day to all the Dads reading this. We were up at 0530 to prepare for our departure, but the morning did not look too promising - fog, thick fog, with visibility of about 200’ at best. At 0600, on a brief radio call with Wings, we decided it was best to stay put. Normally, fog wouldn’t be a big deal. Two boats travelling together, both with their radar going, can provide for quite safe and comfortable travel. But, here in Maine, with lobster pot floats everywhere, we were nervous about the prospect of running over their floats and getting a line wrapped around our prop shaft, so we decided to sit tight. </span></div>
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Adventures of Fran and Stephenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13217182448252927451noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1905445316771270903.post-73554593096597957012017-06-14T10:55:00.001-07:002017-06-14T10:55:31.836-07:00WINDJAMMERS AND PANBO<div style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 11px; line-height: normal;">
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Coast of Maine with our route over the past week</div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxV7DA0pqCutMP5jmIK2sMMe4taQNWWW0qkt70SDRNXOfST_dYdT7-J9_s7L5TUT_oSAF11ulvd12KY61kV66UPavCwvtPtyUMSIPkumLTz3wzNwn5xl32oAbQHQJgxMrrJIJdIJPKMDQ/s1600/FullSizeRender.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="208" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxV7DA0pqCutMP5jmIK2sMMe4taQNWWW0qkt70SDRNXOfST_dYdT7-J9_s7L5TUT_oSAF11ulvd12KY61kV66UPavCwvtPtyUMSIPkumLTz3wzNwn5xl32oAbQHQJgxMrrJIJdIJPKMDQ/s320/FullSizeRender.jpg" width="320" /></a></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Monday June 12, 2017</b>; Another perfect day with bright sunshine, very light wind and the promise of warm summer temperatures. As pre-arranged, we were underway at 0900 hours for Castine Harbour, a 13 nautical mile run. Castine Harbour is on the Bagaduce River and the moderately narrow river causes a significant 2 knot current in either direction with the tidal flow, so when grabbing a mooring ball, it requires great coordination between the Captain and the Admiral. We chose to rent a mooring from the famed Eaton’s Boatyard. Owner Kenny Eaton has been a fixture in Castine for many decades and he distinguishes his business from others with such things as delivery of morning newspapers to a free lobster with your mooring fee in July and August (we were a little early for that benefit). A local author has written a book about Kenny and his friendly antics and his helpfulness to all. Inside his prominent and crotchety building is, what appears to a casual observer, the most disorganized collection of boating gear imaginable, both new and used. But if you ask Kenny for something, he knows what he has and where to find it. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Castine is one of the oldest towns in New England, predating Plymouth be about seven years. It was originally a fur trading post. During its tumultuous history, Castine changed hands 25 times among the English, French, Dutch, Spanish and American colonists. The entire town is on the National Historic Register with many fine examples of its historic architecture. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Today Castine is home to the Marine Maritime Academy, established in 1941 to train merchant seamen and now offering a range of courses in engineering, management, transportation and nautical & ocean science. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi-dUmzGwZXrr9BzxDOvaSQ5Q60NMTk3EIltiBzPMWh_FbuAuy8fv9J-V9oyevom9rL2qN7mKh2CNKbIx4QMOENe5GM7hr3uw0Brv-JXXHVvhOAZ3FqPNt9i3g2mGkq3sO4RUnAByFigw/s1600/IMG_6567.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi-dUmzGwZXrr9BzxDOvaSQ5Q60NMTk3EIltiBzPMWh_FbuAuy8fv9J-V9oyevom9rL2qN7mKh2CNKbIx4QMOENe5GM7hr3uw0Brv-JXXHVvhOAZ3FqPNt9i3g2mGkq3sO4RUnAByFigw/s320/IMG_6567.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Tuesday June 13, 2017</b>: </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">This summer weather is addictive - another sunny day, bound for temperatures in the high 20’s. We got underway by 0830 for Camden, Maine, about 19 nautical miles away on the west shore of Penobscot Bay. Camden was first settled in 1771 by folks trying to scrape by with modest farming in the mountainous terrain. Like Castine, Camden has a storied history of conflict. In the mid 1800’s the town had sawmills, gristmills and carriage factories. There were six shipyards launching six to twelve vessels annually. Lime quarries were also a significant source of commerce. In the late 1800’s Camden’s natural beauty was discovered by sportsmen and those seeking summer and autumn homes and those nostalgic for the sea. Thus began the property buying and grand summer homes being built by the wealthy from Boston, New York and Pennsylvania. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">One of the most enduring symbols of Camden and Penobscot Bay are the schooners or windjammers. Once, thousands of wooden sailing ships raced up and down the eastern seaboard in hopes of being the first to market with their cargo. Now a days, instead of carrying fish, granite and lumber, these venerable tall ships sail the bays of Maine, transporting guests back to the golden age of sail. Most of these ships are schooners, which have at least two masts, with the shorter mast forward. They were first built in the 1700’s, designed for speed and minimal crew. In their heyday, schooners were the workhorses of a young and thriving America carrying everything from coal and oysters to bricks and Christmas trees. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">By the 1930’s commercial sailing ships couldn’t compete with trains and steamships and they were on the verge of abandonment. An artist named Frank Swift from rural Maine saw the beauty of these schooners and through his paintings and finally through buying a schooner in the mid 1930’s and offering “Windjammer Cruises”, he single handedly started the revival of schooners in Maine. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Today, there are vessels in the Maine Windjammer Association, seven of which have been designated National Historic Landmarks. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Here are some pictures of this wondrous fleet. </span></div>
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Penobscot Bay Windjammer Fleet</div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">For boaters, the name Panbo and Ben Ellison may ring a bell. He is the Senior Electronics Editor for Passage Maker Magazine, Sail Magazine, Power & Motoryacht and others and he uses his boat is a lab for testing and reporting on new electronics. A friend and reader of our blog, Tim, who boats on Lake Huron and Georgian Bay was following our movements via the AIS website (<a href="https://www.marinetraffic.com/en/ais/details/ships/shipid:5038556/mmsi:316015007/imo:0/vessel:TUGN"><span style="-webkit-font-kerning: none;">https://www.marinetraffic.com/en/ais/details/ships/shipid:5038556/mmsi:316015007/imo:0/vessel:TUGN</span></a>) notices we were in the same harbour as Ben Ellison’s boat Gizmo. He encouraged us to go visit Ben, which we did. I introduced myself as an avid follower of the Panbo info emails and let him know how many of our Great Lakes boating friends read his material. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Ben was just finishing up an install of a Webasto Hydronic Heater, which I was very interested in and during our discussion, I was delighted to be able to solve a problem he was having with a wiring question. I also took the opportunity to discuss a problem I was having with our cell phone signal booster and Ben offered to see if he had an antenna extension and replacement cell phone cradle at home for me which will hopefully see our signal booster back in service.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Camden is a very picturesque town whose population triples during the summer. Its combination of historic buildings, attractive and busy harbour, great restaurants and boutiques makes it a great stopover. We stayed at the Camden Yacht Club on one of their inner harbour “float docks” and used their tender services to get back and forth to shore. everyone we met were so very helpful and friendly. Interestingly, an initiative by the State of Maine reimburses marina’s offering pump out services (for our black water holding tank) to help keep the ocean clean. Very impressive and how it should be. Canadian maritime provinces could learn from this example. </span></div>
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Stephen aboard Camden Yacht Club tender</div>
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We have seen small cruise ships in Castine and Camden. One can also see this area on one of those magnificent schooners whether its for an afternoon or w week. Interestingly, however, the summer boating season is not fully underway yet. Most mooring fields are quite empty and shops, yacht clubs and marinas say things will really begin to pick up at the end of June. I'm thinking, with this great weather and light crowds, our timing is pretty perfect. </div>
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Adventures of Fran and Stephenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13217182448252927451noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1905445316771270903.post-4411913427628875812017-06-12T17:22:00.001-07:002017-06-12T17:22:42.686-07:00THE CRUISING BEGINS<div style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 11px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Wednesday June 7th</b> is our launch day. Sunrise is very early hear, currently 4:52 am, meaning it gets light much earlier. We were up and out of bed before 0600, fed and freshened up by 0700 and completing last minute odd jobs prior to launch. At 0830, Wayne brought Atlantic Boat Company’s huge tractor and hydraulic trailer to Tug’n, knocked on our hull and called out that its time to launch. Atlantic Boat can only launch boats about 2 hours before high tide to 2 hours after, so you don’t want to miss that window. The day is perfect - a bright clear sky, 16 degrees C and a very light breeze. No matter how well prepared we are and how highly competent the boat yard staff are, my adrenalin level always jumps when it is time for launch or haul out. Seeing our boat high up in the air on a hydraulic trailer or a travel lift just fills me with nervous excitement. </span></div>
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Launch at Atlantic Boat Company</div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Launch goes without a hitch. Our big Cummins diesel fires up on the first try and seems excited by the prospect of another summer of cruising with us. We idle out into the bay going through a check list of tasks to be sure all is in order. After a short three mile run we are back in the bay to grab a mooring ball. I spend the rest of the day checking further equipment (generator, electronics, water maker etc) completing a tweak here and there to get things working the way I want. Our friends Bob and Jan on Wings get launched a couple of hours later and they are going through exactly the same steps with equipment check outs and solving the occasional head ache. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">The gentle wave slap on the hull on our first night on the water prevents me from getting the best sleep, but I’ll get used to it over the next few days. Prior to launch, we’d had a couple of happy hour discussions with Bob and Jan about where to start our cruising in Maine. We decided on heading southwest from Atlantic Boat Company to Deer Isle. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Last year, friends Lee and Barb, aboard a 37’ Nordic Tug named Encore, spend a few hours with us, marking good anchorages along the New England coast and we are now making use of their guidance. Deer Isle has many possible anchorages and we chose Pickering Cove as it will offer good protection when the forecast strong northerly winds arrive early Friday. The anchorage is a leisurely 9 nautical mile trip past many gorgeous waterfront homes. Lobster fishing seems to be thriving as we zig and zag our way along our intended route dodging hundreds of lobster pot floats. Following a straight line is absolutely impossible and our autopilot is getting a break as hand steering is the only way to avoid running over these floats and getting one of their lines wrapped around our prop shaft. I certainly don’t want to have to get in that 11 degree C water to do a repair. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Pickering Cove was lovely, with a few fantastic homes along the shoreline and only one large sailboat on its private mooring ball, there was plenty of room for us to anchor. This was our first anchoring of the season and we were not as well prepared as we should have been. We went through the mental calculations on water depth, plus tidal range to sort out the length of anchor rode we needed. But, we didn’t have our wash down pump working so when our first attempt at anchoring left us too close to a lobster pot float, without the wash down pump, we got lots of mud on deck. I scurried to get the wash down hose in place and turn on the pump only to realize the connection to the output side of the pump was not attached and sea water was being sprayed all about in our bilge. After successfully anchoring, I had quite a mess to clean up.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">The prevailing southwest wind caused a minor swell in the anchorage until the wind swung around to the north. In the afternoon, the bright sunshine gave us a brief high temperature in the low 20’s and we enjoyed a couple of hours in the cockpit doing some bird watching, reading and having a happy hour refreshment. After a lovely dinner and showers, we enjoyed a movie on our tv before an early night. </span></div>
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Happy Hour in the cockpit</div>
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Sunset at Pickering Cove on Deer Isle</div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Friday June 9, 2017</b>. We woke to a chilly 9 degrees, wind and rain (as was forecast). We stayed in bed until almost 0800 hours. As planned, we were underway by 1030 hours for a lunch stop at the town of Stonington on Deer Island Thorofare. It’s a picturesque town with plenty of white houses on a hill sloping down to the water where the bay is filled with lobster boats tending to all those traps we do our best to dodge. Stonington’s residents initially made their living harvesting granite at nearby quarries and running sardine canneries. Lobster fishing and tourism now drive the community’s economy. </span></div>
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Cold and wet in Stonington</div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">There is no real visitor docking here, but we managed to get approval to tie up at “The Landing” dock for a few hours, in the pouring rain, allowing us to walk into town fur lunch at the Harbour Cafe. We split a bowl of fish chowder and a plate of haddock and chips, that was most welcome after our outing on this damp and chilly morning. After lunch, we headed off further west to Perry Creek Cove on Vinalhaven Island, at the south end of the famed Penobscot Bay. As we cruised along, admiring the shoreline, the forests and the lovely homes, we were struck with how similar it looks to our home cruising area on Georgian Bay. The big difference of course is the salt water, the tides and the look of the rugged, seaweed strewn shorelines at low tide. But at high tide, one could easily believe you were cruising Georgian Bay.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Perry Creek Cove is a lovely, well protected anchorage which we were pleased to share with two other boats and of course a bunch of lobster trap floats. Vinalhaven Island's more recent history since the arrival of Europeans some 250 years ago, was focused on fishing, shipbuilding, logging & shipbuilding. Later, high quality granite was discovered in 1826 and Vinalhaven became one of Maine's largest quarrying centres for the next century. Today, the island's residents are focused on fishing and lobster and the island is also home to wealthy north easterners mostly from Boston, New York and Philadelphia. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Maine’s coastline has many islands, coves and channels and each one needs a name. It has been quite fascinating getting acquainted with the area as we sort out our cruising plans and reading the names one thinks those responsible for naming them must have had quite a lot of fun. Check out these names: Eggemoggin Reach; Naskeag Harbour; Burnt Coat Harbour; Isle au Haut; Mount Desert Island (that locals pronounce it Mount Dessert, probably due to the French origin of its early European inhabitants); Brimstone Island; Crotch Island. Trust me, there are many more entertaining names. I’m sure there is a story behind each one and I plan on doing some digging to see what I can find out.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Saturday June 10, 2017</b>: This morning was one of those days that is just picture perfect. Cloudless, mirror calm water, silent and breathtakingly beautiful reflections of the tree lined shore. The rain/dew mixture on deck begged for a wipe down, which I did before breakfast, pausing every few minutes to admire the beauty. A mom & pop small lobster boat swung by to tend to their traps in an efficient and orderly manner.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">By 1000 hours, we were underway for a new anchorage in southerly Penobscot Bay called Pulpit Harbour on North Haven Island. Our route took us between Vinalhaven Island and North Haven Island, past many gorgeous properties with huge homes (summer homes?) all in splendid condition and many with elaborate piers with ramps and floating docks, which is an engineering challenge with 10’ tides. </span></div>
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North Haven home</div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Pulpit Harbour is reportedly a huge favourite among the boating community and we found it littered with mooring buoys. Fran and I remembered it from a one week schooner cruise we had aboard The Heritage in 1997. We had anchored in Pulpit Harbour and sailed one of their lovely wooden tenders about the harbour. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Upon arrival, we approached a sailboat with a New York registration, to ask for guidance about the mooring balls and we were encouraged to pick up any of the mooring balls as most owners had not launched their boats yet. Come July, it would be a different story and the sparsely populated anchorage would likely be packed. So, we happily picked up a mooring and settled in. Shortly after, our new sailing friends Nick and Jennifer came by to tell us about a public floating dock we were allowed to use and a recommended shore walk to take. Nick and Jennifer are retired from the hectic New York advertising business and in retirement, Nick is an artist and Jennifer writes and publishes children’s books. Jennifer Berne has published four books: Manfish; Calvin Can’t Fly; Nighty-Night, Sleep Tight; and On a Beam of Light. We completed a lovely walk with Nick and Jennifer to the North Haven Grocery Store and Fran and I split a dish of ice cream - mmmmm. I think this is our first day where the temperature was warm enough to truly desire an ice cream.Afterwards, we did a few chores, enjoyed a game of Five Crowns over Happy Hour and then barbecued a pork tenderloin for dinner as the wind died and the sun set behind the Camden Hills off in the distance. Perfect.</span></div>
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Tug'n & Wings on mooring balls in Pulpit Harbour</div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Sunday June 11, 2017</b>: It’s another beautiful, sunny morning. We were up by 0530, woken by the very early sunrise. Waking so early also goes together conveniently with falling asleep shortly after 2100 hours (9pm). Strong winds are forecast for later this morning, so we are on our way by 0740 for a short, 9 nautical mile run to an anchorage at Warren Island by Seven Hundred Acre Island. Warren Island is described as a wild, remote State Park. The State maintains 9 mooring balls that are rented on the honour system for $20 per night. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Shortly after lunch, Wings launched their dinghy and ferried the four of us to the dinghy dock. We met the Park Warden who gave us a map of the island in exchange for our fee and warned us about protecting ourselves from ticks and lime disease, which we’d prepared for. Warren Island used to belong to the William Folwell family, wool manufacturers from Philadelphia. Their dream home was completed over 10 years at a cost of $75,000 and was completed in 1901. It was built from spruce logs cut on the island and it included a large dining room, kitchen, ball room and 27 bedrooms all connected by a balcony. Summer days were filled with sailing, fishing, clambakes and visits to the mainland, but the highlight of every summer was their masquerade ball. All this activity came to an end in 1919 when the summer home was destroyed by fire. The property was donated to the state for a park. Remnants of the summer home’s foundation are still evident on the property. A walk around the well maintained property perimeter shows off its wonderful views of Penobscot Bay.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Today reached a high of 25 degrees - how perfect is that.</span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-font-kerning: none;">Some lovely summer homes we saw</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj19A0KbE6xcCSNTXRtkITJ6VQ8oIQT1lWPQ8rXa8ZcWilsJOfv-hi4JyyvC03CQH7sb0cjoxXpPW_-H0Ip95kXnwCKyR_gdkgTeAZ0bEHaGoG9zy6OnL83RKhe2kQEqmIX641oFKVALxI/s1600/IMG_1776.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj19A0KbE6xcCSNTXRtkITJ6VQ8oIQT1lWPQ8rXa8ZcWilsJOfv-hi4JyyvC03CQH7sb0cjoxXpPW_-H0Ip95kXnwCKyR_gdkgTeAZ0bEHaGoG9zy6OnL83RKhe2kQEqmIX641oFKVALxI/s320/IMG_1776.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
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Our walk on Warren Island</div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Sunset at Warren Island</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgY8bF5OJp-BEoi6mzTKv2WX8zn_oEtJiW9HEAxVXAoFjlub2lLF_NH0mpiFvm3r2rQCHAAKbwqEXAR7FNjt2j49TPbaWsRoVDLOhwABPxDl3ucKVOgnh0NWNfL7JffEUOD967kP13De_o/s1600/IMG_6537.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgY8bF5OJp-BEoi6mzTKv2WX8zn_oEtJiW9HEAxVXAoFjlub2lLF_NH0mpiFvm3r2rQCHAAKbwqEXAR7FNjt2j49TPbaWsRoVDLOhwABPxDl3ucKVOgnh0NWNfL7JffEUOD967kP13De_o/s320/IMG_6537.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
Adventures of Fran and Stephenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13217182448252927451noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1905445316771270903.post-43160465113966498592017-06-05T08:17:00.000-07:002017-06-05T08:17:56.034-07:00SEASON 2 - DOWN EAST CIRCLE ROUTE<div style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 11px; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-kerning: none;">Dear Family and Friends</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">We are about to embark on the second half of our Down East Circle Route adventure. Saturday May 27th, Bob and Jan (from Wings, the 35’ Nordhavn) drove from their home in Michigan to our home in Oakville. Then on Sunday, the four of us drove back to Brooklin, Maine to the Atlantic Boat Company where our boats have been stored for the past winter. Atlantic Boat Company moved our boats from their storage building out into the yard so we could have a few days to get them ready to launch. Our pre launch projects include:</span></div>
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<li style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 11px; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><b></b><span style="font-kerning: none;">Installing an AIS (Automatic Identification System) allowing us to see information (boat name, length, boat type, radio call sign, boat speed & direction) on other boats / ships in our area and for them to see our boat information.</span></li>
<li style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 11px; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><b></b><span style="font-kerning: none;">Replacing zinc anodes on the hull, rudder and skeg</span></li>
<li style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 11px; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><b></b><span style="font-kerning: none;">Check battery voltages and re-connect them</span></li>
<li style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 11px; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><b></b><span style="font-kerning: none;">Check/change impeller on Cummins diesel</span></li>
<li style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 11px; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><b></b><span style="font-kerning: none;">Update software on Chart Plotter</span></li>
<li style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 11px; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><b></b><span style="font-kerning: none;">Check all thru hull fittings</span></li>
<li style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 11px; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><b></b><span style="font-kerning: none;">Check steering mechanism</span></li>
<li style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 11px; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><b></b><span style="font-kerning: none;">Fill and start up water system and check system for leaks</span></li>
<li style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 11px; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><b></b><span style="font-kerning: none;">Install optional posts on mast for GPS and Furuno Weather Station for improved performance</span></li>
<li style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 11px; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><b></b><span style="font-kerning: none;">Replace carpets in engine room</span></li>
<li style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 11px; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><b></b><span style="font-kerning: none;">Apply Rain-X to windows</span></li>
<li style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 11px; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><b></b><span style="font-kerning: none;">Apply wax to exterior stainless steel </span></li>
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Outline of the Down East Circle Route<div>
<span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: 11px;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWmJ7NYQtt_jfR1SprByVbGaW3QMILgwTssleZ5J52nrW_xIcnOnfkTkmvwJGdCRqBXlvTlmWj47bhqIz_SPHViNQCE8XGHphF-mOXXRGhm5QIzUGUXhnSK_TDqU75TSbUahk8RKwlq2M/s1600/Screen+Shot+2017-06-05+at+10.20.45+AM.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="238" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWmJ7NYQtt_jfR1SprByVbGaW3QMILgwTssleZ5J52nrW_xIcnOnfkTkmvwJGdCRqBXlvTlmWj47bhqIz_SPHViNQCE8XGHphF-mOXXRGhm5QIzUGUXhnSK_TDqU75TSbUahk8RKwlq2M/s320/Screen+Shot+2017-06-05+at+10.20.45+AM.png" width="320" /></a></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Our loose plan for this summer involves:</span></div>
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<li style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 11px; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><b></b><span style="font-kerning: none;">Cruise the coast of Maine for the month of June</span></li>
<li style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 11px; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><b></b><span style="font-kerning: none;">Then head south along the coasts of New Hampshire, Massachusetts, Rhode Island and Connecticut to New York City</span></li>
<li style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 11px; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><b></b><span style="font-kerning: none;">Then head north, up the Hudson River, through Lake Champlain, crossing into Quebec and on to Sorel on the St. Lawrence River</span></li>
<li style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 11px; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><b></b><span style="font-kerning: none;">Then up the St Lawrence to Montreal and up the Ottawa River to Ottawa</span></li>
<li style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 11px; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><b></b><span style="font-kerning: none;">Then down the Rideau Canal from Ottawa to Kingston and finally, through the Bay of Quinte to Trenton and up the Trent-Severn Waterway to Georgian Bay and our home port of Beacon Bay in Penetanguishene </span></li>
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Our location in Brooklin, Maine<div style="line-height: normal; min-height: 13px;">
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Tug'n and Wings "on the hard"<div style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: 11px;">
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">This season, it will be just us aboard Tug’n and Bob and Jan aboard Wings making the trip back to the Great Lakes. Our friends Dave and Judy aboard Sir Tugley Blue have decided to spend the full 2017 season cruising the coast of Maine and hauling out again at Atlantic Boat Company next winter. Tentatively they will make the return trip to Lake Michigan in 2018.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>BLOG Comments and Feedback</b>: Last year, many of you tried to leave comments on our various blog postings but were unable to. Thankfully our friends Tim and Bice helped sort out this problem last fall and you are now able to leave comments on the blog. So, we look forward to hearing from you this summer with your comments and questions or to just say hello. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Some History of Maine</b>: The history of the area now called Maine spans thousands of years. The earliest inhabitants called the Red Paint People (3,000 BC to about 1,000 BC) were a maritime group known for elaborate burials using red ochre. They were followed by the Susquehanna Culture, the first to use pottery. By the time the Europeans arrived in about 1525 the inhabitants of Maine were Algonquian speaking Wabanaki peoples including the Abenaki, Passamaquoddy and Penobscots. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">The first Europeans to explore the coast of Maine sailed under the command of the Portuguese explorer Estevao Gomes in service of the Spanish Empire. They did not settle in the area, but they mapped the coastline. The first European settlement was made on St. Croix Island in 1604 by a French party lead by Samuel de Champlain. The French named the area Acadia. French & English settlers would contest central Maine until the 1750’s when the French were defeated in the French and Indian War. The French developed and maintained strong relations with the area’s Native American tribes through the Catholic missionaries. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">During the American Revolution, Maine was a centre of Patriotism, with less Loyalist activity than most colonies. Merchants operated 52 ships that served as Privateers attacking British supply ships. Captain Henry Mowat of the Royal Navy was in charge of operations off the Maine coast during much of the war. He dismantled Fort Pownall at the mouth of the Penobscot River an burned Falmouth (present-day Portland) in 1775. He was reputedly heartless and brutal, but historians note that he performed his duty well and in accordance with the ethics of the era. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">In 1779 the British started to seize parts of Maine, especially around Penobscot Bay, to make it into a new colony named New Ireland. The approach was promoted by exiled Loyalists so it could become a permanent colony for Loyalists and a base for military action during the war. The plan failed due to lack of interest by the British government and by the determination of the Americans to keep all of Maine.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Peace was signed in 1783 and the New Ireland proposal abandoned. In 1784 the British split New Brunswick off from Nova Scotia and made it into the desired Loyalist colony. The Treaty of Paris that ended the war was ambiguous about the boundary between Maine an the neighbouring British provinces of New Brunswick and Quebec and this would set the stage for the bloodless Aroostook War a half century later.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">During the War of 1812, Maine suffered the effects of warfare more than most sections of New England. US Army and Navy resources were concentrating their efforts on the west and few resources were assigned to the Maine region. Eventually sufficient militia mobilizations managed to discourage enemy interventions from the British army and naval forces from nearby Nova Scotia.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Maine gained statehood in March 4, 1820 (supported by over 70% of its 24,000 residents) as part of the Missouri Compromise in which free northern states approved the statehood of Missouri as a slave state in exchange for the statehood of Maine as a free state. In this manner, northern representation remained in balance with southern pro-slavery influence in the Senate.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Maine’s industrialization was focused on logging, lumber, shipbuilding and a disproportionally large merchant marine to deliver lumber all over the world. Later, the emphasis was on cotton textile mills and textile manufacturing, followed by pulp and paper. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Maine’s population includes significant immigration from Ireland, French Canadians from Quebec and New Brunswick and English & Scottish immigrants coming via Canada. There is also a significant group of Somali immigrants from the early 2000’s. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">In the mid 20th century, the textile industry was relocating to the lower cost American South. Shipbuilding was also in decline and in more recent years, even Maine’s most traditional industries have been threatened; forest conservation efforts diminished logging and pulp & paper; restrictions on fisheries put pressure on coastal communities.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Maine attempted to buttress retailing, service industries and tourism resulting in more outlet shopping centres, more state and national parks, increasing the number of visitors enjoying Maines vast unspoiled wilderness. However, since the 1970’s, Maine continues to be the poorest state in all of the USA with its exceptionally high levels of welfare.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Cruising Maine’s Coast</b>: Enough history. Maine is reputedly one of the best cruising grounds in the world. It combines the best of broad ocean passages, magnificent rivers, coastal islands and mountains, and even a fjord. Wildlife abounds, as do safe harbours, and apparently you can feel as if you are one of only a few lucky souls out there exploring in your own boat. We plan to find out.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">The typical cruising season in Maine lasts from the first of July through Labor Day. The days are warm, the nights are cool, and the prevailing southwest winds are light to moderate. So, we are on the early side of that time frame an hoping for better than average weather and temperatures.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Only 250 miles as the crow flies, Maine’s convoluted coastline measures more than 3,500 miles. A new computerized study using satellite images has logged the length at a whopping 5,500 miles with 6,200 islands. There is enough coast here for a lifetime of cruising.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">We’ve spent May 29th to June 4th living on the boat at the Atlantic Boat Yard, working away on projects. We made two trips into Blue Hill and Ellsworth with a loner car from Atlantic Boat’s General Manager and literally filled the car twice with groceries and other supplies. We’d planned to launch the boat June 5th and go on a mooring for a day or two to finish checking out our various systems. However, a very high wind forecast for one to two days is making us postpone our launch a little longer. In the meantime we managed to fit in visits to the village of Brooklin with its quaint General Store and Brooklin Inn, the Brooklin Boat Yard and the Wooden Boat School that offers live-in courses on the art of wooden boat building. </span></div>
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The Brooklin Inn<div style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: 11px;">
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The Wooden Boat School (Stephen & Bob)<div style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: 11px;">
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A Work in Progress at the Wooden Boat School<div style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: 11px;">
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Some of the Wooden Boat School fleet<div style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: 11px;">
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Bob, Jan and Fran<div style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: 11px;">
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">For anyone considering cruising this area, we give high praise to the Atlantic Boat Company. Their price was the most reasonable we found in this area of Maine and the staff are the most friendly and accommodating you could ever hope for. It’s been a great place to store our boat this past winter.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">The weather so far has been extremely variable. During one day, we’ve experienced fog, mist, brilliant sunshine, heavy cloud cover with frequent showers, calm winds, strong winds and temperature swings from 9 to 23 degrees C (that’s 48 to 74 degrees F). It’s been some variation of that list every day this week. It seems the best thing to do is enjoy those brief bits of lovely sunshine and warm temperatures when they come and be prepared to put your sweater and jacket back on quickly.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Many thanks for following our blog and we certainly look forward to your comments. We will definitely be launched and under way by the time you see our next blog post.</span></div>
Adventures of Fran and Stephenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13217182448252927451noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1905445316771270903.post-76946079381487981432016-09-17T06:46:00.000-07:002016-09-22T11:38:09.731-07:00FAIRWELL TO NOVA SCOTIAHere is our route covered by this blog post<br />
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On Thursday September 1st, we continued our journey southwest along the shore of Nova Scotia with a 42 nautical mile run from Lunenburg to Port Mouton (pronounced Matoon), passing numerous fishing boats along the rugged and rocky shore line. We did not go into the village of Port Mouton, opting instead to anchor at Carter’s Beach. This was a stunningly beautiful anchorage with a long and lovely white sand beach with lots of locals braving the cloudy, cool day to walk the beach. Some even went to far as to swim in the decidedly cold water. As it was just an overnight stop, we did not lower our dinghy and go ashore to explore.</div>
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On Friday, we were up and underway by 0630 under a clear sky and light winds, headed a further 39 miles to Shelburne, Nova Scotia. We took a mooring at the very hospitable Shelburne Yacht Club. Shelburne is a very picturesque town that was founded in 1738. The first Europeans to settle here were French Acadians who established a small fishing settlement. After the British expulsion of the Acadians in 1755, there were no further settlers in the area for almost three decades. In 1783, about 5,000 settlers came to Shelburne form the New York area. They were United Empire Loyalists who opposed the American Revolution and wished to remain loyal to Britain. The Crown offered them free land, tools and provisions to attract them to Shelburne. </div>
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At the same time, the Black Loyalists, a large group of black slaves who escaped from the rebels to British lines, were promised freedom and free land. They were evacuated and transported by the British to Shelburne, which became the largest free Black settlement in North America. But the Black Loyalists endured long waits for their land, they got smaller parcels than the whites and they faced discrimination from other colonists. In 1784 the whites conducted Shelburne Riots against the African Americans. </div>
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With multiple waves of settlers, by 1783, Shelburne’s population ballooned to 17,000 making it the 4th largest settlement in North America. However, with a lack of agricultural land and too few pioneers who knew how to develop the land, Shelburne’s population fell sharply. Its remaining population focused on fishing and ship building. </div>
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Another notable event occurred in May 1945 following Germany’s surrender to the allies, German submarine U889 surrendered to the Royal Canadian Navy in Shelburne. </div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;">Today Shelburne is a lovely town with a beautiful historic section. We enjoyed a great lunch at Charlotte’s Lane. Later, we learned the Shelburne Yacht Club has local restaurants cater dinners at the Yacht Club on Friday nights (instead of running their own restaurant), so we took advantage of the great deal they were offering</span></div>
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Historic Shelburne, Nova Scotia<br />
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Charlotte's Lane Restaurant, Shelburne<br />
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Our adventure for this summer was going to finish up in Maine and for several days, we’d been discussing how best to complete the crossing from Nova Scotia to Maine, across the Bay of Fundy. Initially, we’d planned on a series of multiple stops (Yarmouth to Brier Island, to Grand Manan Island and finally checking in to US Customs & Immigration at Cutler, Maine. This route would involve relatively short runs of between 30 and 50 nautical miles. Hurricane Hermine (4th named Hurricane in the 2016 Atlantic Season) was an unplanned complication that was going to cause multiple days of strong ocean swells that could cause us to have to wait in one of these ports. Also, these ports all had fixed piers (as opposed to floating docks) and tides of 5 1/2 meters all of which were vulnerable to the forecast southerly ocean swells. </div>
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The preferred route by my friend Denis and other local boaters we met, was a direct route from Shelburne to say Mount Desert Island in Maine, a distance of about 160 nautical miles. As it happens, the author of a popular Nova Scotia cruising guide, Peter Loverette was docked at Shelburne while we were there and he agreed to meet with us to discuss our plans. There were two key factors we needed to consider. One was rounding the southern tip of Cape Sable Island, nicknamed the “Graveyard of the Atlantic”. Its low lying land coupled with strong tidal currents and rip tides demanded respect and everyone recommended you time your passing to coincide with low tide. The other key consideration was arrival time near Maine as their lobster fishing season is year round and lobster pot floats start appearing about 15 miles offshore, so we wanted good daylight when we reached that area. At our cruising speed of about 7.8 knots, it would take us about 20 1/2 hours to make the crossing</div>
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Taking all this information into account, we concluded we were best to depart Shelburne around 1300 hours on Saturday September 3rd, round Cape Sable Island at about 1730 hours and get clear of a variety of other smaller islands and shoals south of Yarmouth before dark. Then we’d be on a straight course for Maine throughout the night and we could adjust our speed as needed so we’d not arrive along Maine’s lobster fishing shore before daylight.</div>
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Fran and I had done several “overnighters” on previous boats and were fairly comfortable with the idea. The others had a little less experience but all agreed this was our best strategy. Looking at the forecast for the coming seven days, there was no better weather window than what we had for the next two days. Despite our previous experience, I find my mind becomes a whirl of thoughts and a sound sleep is not possible. When we got up Saturday morning we were excited to get going, but kept ourselves occupied until 1300. Winds and waves were lighter than forecast. On our way to Cape Sable Island, I spotted a large flock of seagulls prompting Fran and I to grab binoculars to check what they were doing. What a wonderful surprise - a group of humpback whales were doing their organized bubble feeding and the seagulls were taking advantage of their activity too. </div>
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Rounding Cape Sable Island we got a great “push” from the tidal current adding as much as 2.8 knots to our speed for a while. Before it got dark, we figured out how to dim all the lights on the navigational equipment. We have dim red lights in the pilot house for night cruising and nearby switches for white lighting were taped over so we wouldn’t turn them on by mistake and mess up our night vision. As dusk arrived, we started our 2 hours on, 2 hours off shifts with Fran taking the first 2000 to 2200 hour shift. The three boats fell into a line about a half mile apart so we could always see the navigation lights of each other and we were in regular contact via VHF radio. The sky was a clear but moonless night, the winds remained light, there was very little boat traffic and the half meter swell has hardly noticeable. We simply couldn’t have asked for better conditions. As the boat was being steered by autopilot, for the person on “watch”, most of the time was spent staring at the radar screen to see if any other vessels showed up as a new blip on the screen. If one of us spotted something, we’d alert the other two boats so the three of us could keep track and determine if there was a risk to us. </div>
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I took the 2200 to 2400 shift, munching on peanuts and other snacks to keep alert. I also kept singing that famous song "Farewell to Nova Scotia" to myself.<br />
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<i style="color: #252525; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">Farewell to Nova Scotia, the sea-bound coast,</i><span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 14px;"></span><i style="color: #252525; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">may your mountains dark and dreary<sup class="reference" id="cite_ref-3" style="font-size: 11px; font-style: normal; line-height: 1; unicode-bidi: -webkit-isolate; white-space: nowrap;"><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Farewell_to_Nova_Scotia#cite_note-3" style="background-image: none; color: #0b0080; text-decoration: none;">]</a></sup>be.</i><span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 14px;"></span><i style="color: #252525; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">For when I am far away on the briny ocean tossed,</i><span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 14px;"></span><i style="color: #252525; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">Will you ever heave a sigh or a wish for me?</i><br />
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Fran surprised me on her 2400 to 0200 shift as she decided not to wake me and she continued on until 0400, which was a lovely treat. Through her shift, the three boats spoke regularly about the remaining distance to go before daylight and when we expected to see lobster pot floats and gradually slowed the boats down so we wouldn’t arrive too early. Sure enough, right after sunrise, the first lobster pots appeared. We were in 250 feet of water and gradually the numbers of floats increased dramatically. Soon, we could no longer use the autopilot as a straight course was impossible. It seemed to us like the “wild west of lobster fishing” making us wonder how there could be any lobsters left on the bottom. Fran woke up to quite a sight of lobster pot floats along with multiple whale and propose sightings all around us, such that Fran was afraid we'd hit one. </div>
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En route, we phoned in to Customs and Immigration announcing our arrival, providing our names, birth dates, Nexus numbers, passport numbers, our boat information, our starting place and our destination. They called back half an hour later confirming we were cleared but they’d meet us in the harbour to sell us our cruising permit. After an hour and a half of dodging lobster pot floats, we arrived at our destination, North East Harbour on Mount Desert Island. Here was another first time experience for us. In addition to regular docks and mooring balls, the marina had a series of 40’ docks anchored in the bay, but not attached to shore. These docks allow two boats on each one, thus squeezing more boats in the harbour than mooring balls. Some of these docks also had a fresh water tap as well, which was very convenient.</div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;">Mount Desert Island, home of Acadia National Park, looked very appealing to visit with its rich history dating back some 6,000 years. We will</span><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;"> have to explore it next season as our time here is going to be devoted to preparing the boat for winter.</span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;">Monday was Labour Day, so on Tuesday, we contacted the Atlantic Boat Company in Brooklin, Maine to discuss timing of our haul out for the winter and agreed on Monday September 12th at 0715. They can only haul boats out at high tide, so it was going to be a bright and early haul out. We spent the intervening time getting our boat ready for haul out and winter storage by doing a wide range of tasks including washing and waxing the boat; engine and generator oil and filter changes, fuel filter changes, water maker winterization, washing all bedding, clothes & towels that would be bagged and stored on board for the winter, defrosting the two freezers, finishing up all our food supplies etc etc. Suffice to say, it was hard to stay awake after 2000 hours each evening as we were so tired from all the work. </span></div>
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Recreational boats shared North East Harbour with many lobster boats who make daily treks out to pull up their traps, empty the lobster catch, rebate the trap and lower it again. Normally, they’d go to a commercial dock and unload their catch to an awaiting refrigerated truck before going to their mooring. One day Fran noted a loaded lobster boat was briefly moored behind us. We motored over in our dinghy to see the fishermen and Fran purchased two 1 1/2 pound lobsters and less than an hour later they were cooked and cooling off in our galley. She cooked them perfectly, shelled them and they were one of our best seafood treats of the summer.</div>
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Staring at this dashboard on our overnight passage<br />
across Bay of Fundy<br />
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Bay of Fundy sunrise<br />
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Mount Desert Island, North East Marina<br />
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Some big yachts in NE Harbour<br />
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Recreational & lobster boats at NE Harbour<br />
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Fran's two lobsters all cooked up!<br />
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We moved the boats 15 nautical miles over to moorings at Atlantic Boat Company on Saturday September 10th, a perfectly lovely day. Haul out occurred as planned on Monday, followed by more washing and waxing of the hull, winterizing the water systems etc. We picked up a rental van on Tuesday and departed for home on Wednesday at 0620 hours. It was almost 1,200 kilometres to Oakville with four drivers taking 2 hour shifts. All was going well until we got stuck on highway 401 east of Kingston where the highway was closed for the day due to a horrific crash. That cost us over 3 hours delay and we ultimately got home just before midnight. Bob, Jan, Dave and Judy stayed overnight at our place and then after a final group breakfast at Cora’s Restaurant, they were on the road again to their homes in Michigan.<br />
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Tug'n haul out at Atlantic Boat Company<br />
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<span style="font-family: -webkit-standard;">Final fairwell breakfast with Bob & Jan, Dave & Judy</span><br />
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This is the wrap up for the end of Season One of our Down East Circle Route Adventure. What a privilege and magnificent experience we had. We got a much deeper understanding of the history and culture of the areas we visited and their importance to the development and shaping of Canada. We learned much about cruising in salt water, coping with tides and currents and learning to anchor in tides. We enjoyed a wonderful diet of seafood this summer, both from our own galley and in local restaurants. Finally, we met the most wonderful and helpful locals. /Wherever we went, they were always curious about our trip and anxious to help us any any way they could. </div>
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We’ve enjoyed documenting our trip in this blog and loved all the emails we got from some of those who followed us along on our journey. Stay tuned for Season Two in 2017. </div>
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Best wishes</div>
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Stephen & Fran Hill</div>
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Tug’n</div>
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Here are the numbers:</div>
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<b>Distance Travelled</b>: 2,135.9 nautical miles</div>
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<b>Fuel Consumed</b>: 2,107 litres of fuel (~533 gallons)</div>
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<b>Engine Run Time</b>: 327.5 hours</div>
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<b>Days Away</b>: 111</div>
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<b>Nights at Anchor or Mooring Ball</b>: about 35%</div>
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<b>Nights at Marina Dock</b>: about 65%</div>
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<b>Provinces/States Visited</b>: Ontario, Quebec, New Brunswick, Prince Edward Island, Nova Scotia, Maine</div>
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<br />Adventures of Fran and Stephenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13217182448252927451noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1905445316771270903.post-7533592612728412072016-09-03T05:13:00.000-07:002016-09-16T12:47:47.018-07:00HALIFAX TO LUNENBURG - AUGUST 26 - 31, 2016Here are the destinations covered by this blog<br />
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Friday August 26th was taken up by a walk to the mall to pick up a few supplies and completion of a few boat chores in between periods of rain. A brief crew meeting with Wings and Sir Tugley Blue to discuss the coming weather confirmed our plans for heading further south west down the coast of Nova Scotia tomorrow. </div>
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The skies cleared out overnight and we awoke to a perfect day on Saturday. We were off to an anchorage called Rogues Roost, about 23 nautical miles away, in prime boating territory for Halifax boaters. Rogues Roost is close to the village of Prospect and is very popular with locals. It is a beautiful and well protected anchorage, lightly forested with lots of low lying brush on rock strewn rolling hills.<br />
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Nova Scotia Nature Trust is an organization dedicated to protect pristine land. The organization is funded by donations from private citizens, generally Nova Scotians. In 2013, they protected 13 hectares around Rogues Roost that they describe as “a coastal barren ecosystem with wet, exposed bedrock, lichen, scrub and salt marsh". They've also protected a big chunk of land along Nova Scotia's eastern shore. The Rogues Roost area is similar to Peggy’s Cove, without the tourists. Nova Scotia Nature Trust and its donors - what an enlightened group...</div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;">There were only two boats when we arrived, but by mid afternoon, there were over 15 boats in the anchorage and later, back down to 10 boats for the night. We enjoyed a beautiful afternoon and evening there and the dead calm overnight wind was perfect for sleeping.</span><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;"> </span></div>
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Passed heavily loaded container ship en route</div>
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to Rogues Roost</div>
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Tug'n at anchor in Rogues Roost<br />
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Sunday Aug 28th was another perfect day as we raised anchor preparing to head some 20 nautical miles across St. Margarets Bay to Deep Cove on Mahone Bay. Deep Cove was reportedly a hurricane hole where boaters like to head in bad weather and indeed it was. The one mile long cove has a narrow entrance, a long narrow channel averaging about 260 feet wide and a lovely basin at the end, surrounded by heavily forested hills. There are a number of great looking homes amongst the trees around the cove and numerous mooring balls for local boats, but there was plenty of room for our three boats to anchor. We had a lovely afternoon and after completing a few engine checks and maintenance items, we sat in the cockpit reading, watching osprey fly about and waving at boats coming and going. </div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;">As former sailors and owners of a Nonsuch 30, we’d been surprised by the number of Nonsuch sailboats in Nova Scotia. There were two in Deep Cove and one of them, named Aristocat, was previously a Georgian Bay boat (from Lions Head up on the Bruce Peninsula) we’d made an offer to buy, in January, 1989. At that time, the owners decided not to sell her and we found another. But it was fun to see Aristocat here in Nova Scotia looking very well cared for.</span></div>
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Wings at anchor in Deep Cove basin</div>
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Monday August 29th. This morning was cloudy with 12 to 20 knot winds, but in the relatively well protected Mahone Bay, we headed off to Mahone Bay Town. En route, we did a “drive by” the very picturesque town of Chester. Chester was officially founded in 1759 during the French & Indian War, however, its first permanent European residents came from Massachusetts in 1761. </div>
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During the American Revolution, Chester famously avoided a raid by American Privateers. The townswomen turned their red lined capes inside out to resemble uniforms of British soldiers and marched around the blockhouse in the early morning of June 30, 1782, successfully convincing the would be raiders at anchor to go and plunder another village. </div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;">Today, Chester is filled with lovely Cape Cod style homes and it has become a sailors’ haven famous for its mid August “Chester Race Week”. The bulk of its summer residents are from New England and Chester is one of the wealthiest communities in Nova Scotia.</span><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;"> </span></div>
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Chester harbour</div>
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Lovely Cape Cod style homes in Chester<br />
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Another stunning home in Chester<br />
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We arrived in Mahone Bay Town around noon and after anchoring, we met up with Bob and Jan from Wings for terrific lunch at Rebecca’s Restaurant. We always use a smart phone app called YELP to find good restaurants. So far, it has never let us down.</div>
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Malone Bay Town was also founded in the mid 1700’s and through the 19th century the town prospered with its wooden shipbuilding. Later, its economy declined with the advent of steel ships and steam power, but during WW1 and WW2 Mahone Bay’s shipbuilding prospered again, building schooners, tugs and barges. Later, the town was known for production of its innovated moulded plywood boats. Today, tourism is its prime economic driver and we enjoyed the walk around town checking out its shops and boutiques. </div>
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A mega yacht anchored near Mahone Bay Town</div>
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Well preserved homes and stores in Mahone Bay Town<br />
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Unusual craft on mooring balls in Mahone Bay Town<br />
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We shared this amazing Strawberry Shortcake!!<br />
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August 30 & 31st. Today’s 25 nautical mile run to Lunenburg was easy and comfortable in quite protected waters. Well before we arrived, we spotted the famed Bluenose II sailboat out for some “man overboard” drills. Shortly afterwards, as we turned at Battery Point the beautiful town came into view causing us to reach for our camera. This famed town with its great history of fishing, shipbuilding and sailing, its harbour filled with many wooden schooners on moorings is stunningly beautiful. In 1995 it was designated an UNESCO World Heritage Site to preserve much of Lunenburg’s unique architecture. </div>
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The village was founded in 1753 as one of the first British attempts to settle Protestants in Nova Scotia, intended to displace the Mi’kmaq and Acadian Catholics. German, Swiss and French settlers were brought in to colonize Lunenburg and the surrounding area. The British settlement posed a lasting threat to Mi’kmaq and their sovereign, traditional territory. The village was subject to numerous raids by Acadians and Mi’kmaq, unsuccessfully attempting to regain control of their territory from the British.</div>
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Today, Lunenburg continues to prosper through tourism, as a fishing port and boat building & boat repairs. We had a great visit to their wonderful Fishing Museum of the Atlantic that was staffed by former cod & scallop fishermen, captains and family of former fishermen. In the early days, schooners fished cod on the banks off Nova Scotia using hand lines with baited hooks over the side of the schooner. Later, dories were used to widen their coverage, with about 12 dories per schooner. Each dory had two fishermen who used hand lines with bated hooks and they were expected to fill the dory with about two tons of cod every few hours (about 100 fish at 20 pounds each). They’d row the dory back to the schooner and unload the catch by hand before heading off again. A fat rich diet kept the fishermen going through sixteen hour days in the often frigid conditions. </div>
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Steam powered steel hull boats with side loader nets replaced schooners and finally, trawlers with stern loader nets were the final solution. Sometime later, the cod were mostly gone and long after it was too late to save the fishery, the federal government shut it down in 1992 putting some 40,000 fishermen and fish processing plant employees out of work. The nutrient rich banks off Nova Scotia and Newfoundland were a wonderful natural resource that provided an enormous bounty of fish for almost 500 years. When you see the historical photos of the enormous catches of cod it is so very sad that this resource was mismanaged by the industry and by federal and provincial governments. </div>
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I spoke with a former engineer who worked on a side loader trawler fishing cod from the late 1950’s to the late 1980’s. He talked about fishermen not being required to go out when winds exceeded 50 knots, but Captains had the right to overrule this restriction and often did, under pressure from the company owners to produce more. He said there are many names on the Memorial to Fishermen Lost at Sea due to vessels being out in very adverse conditions. </div>
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Lunenburg was of course, home of Canada’s most famous schooner, the original Bluenose that is on every Canadian Dime. The original Bluenose was completed and launched in 1921 as a cod fishing schooner. Annual sailing races were held with the fishing schooners and Bluenose regularly proved she was the fastest. Bluenose won the last International Fishermen’s Trophy Race held in 1938. In 1939, former Captain Angus Walters bought her to prevent the sale of Bluenose at auction. Three years later, he sold her to the West Indies Trading Company as a freighter and in 1946 she struck a reef off Haiti and sank a few days later. It wasn’t until 1963 that the Province of Nova Scotia built the replica Bluenose II to serve as a provincial attraction. Lunenburg is home to Bluenose II, who continues to perform her duties as a major tourist attraction around Atlantic Canada and the Great Lakes and four years after her rebuild in 2012 she continues to look as good as new. </div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;">Lunenburg truly is a delightful town to visit with its great mix of restaurants and boutiques, its commercial harbour and dry docks for ship repairs, its fleet of traditional wooden schooners (that we saw enjoy a great Wednesday race night) and its colourful, well-preserved old-world architecture that fills the streets reflecting a strong European influence. It is one more highlight on our summer adventure!</span></div>
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Colourful downtown Lunenburg<br />
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Steve Dashew design FPB64 (a favourite of mine).<br />
The same boat we saw in Hawaii 18 months ago<br />
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Lovely sunset in Lunenburg<br />
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Classic sailboats at Wednesday night races<br />
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Bluenose II passes very close to Tug'n<br />
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Picton Castle enters Lunenburg Harbour<br />
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<br />Adventures of Fran and Stephenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13217182448252927451noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1905445316771270903.post-8698337846868102132016-08-26T14:32:00.001-07:002016-08-26T14:32:36.436-07:00ST PETERS TO HALIFAX - THE ATLANTIC OCEAN - AUGUST19 to 25, 2016<div style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Helvetica; line-height: normal;">
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Map of our route for this blog post</div>
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During our hour and a half in St. Peters, we got a holding tank pump out, topped our fuel tanks, bought groceries and filled one of our galley propane tanks. Then Tug’n, Wings and Sir Tugley Blue were off, through the St Peters Canal and lock, out across Chedabucto Bay and out into the Atlantic Ocean to head west southwest down the coast of Nova Scotia. </div>
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Technically, this is our first outing in the Atlantic Ocean and she was kind to us for our introduction. If you let your mind wander, you realize, far off to our port side (left), the ocean stretches all the way to Europe. That is a lot of open water! For sea conditions, we had 1 to 2 meter ocean swells from two directions - from the east and from the south. The good news was those ocean swells were well spread out. Also, there was a 10 to 15 knot wind from the northwest providing “wind waves” of 1/2 meter from that direction. Our course was west south west and while those swells and wind waves sound like a confused sea, it was really quite comfortable. Occasionally the swells combined to give the boat a big lift and it felt like our bow was briefly pointing up to the sky to climb on top of the water. </div>
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Along our 36 nautical mile trip to our anchorage at Yankee Cove I spotted a thin black and rather straight fin at the surface of the water (for about 4 seconds), about 30 feet off the side of our boat and I immediately thought shark. But looking at pictures in our cruising guide later, it was the wrong colour for a shark, it was too small a fin for a killer whale and it was straighter than the fin of a porpoise so I have absolutely no idea what it was, other than exciting.</div>
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Our anchorage at Yankee Cove was interesting. We entered a low tide so the shoreline was strewn with rocks covered in seaweed, reminding us that we were back in tides of about 5 1/2 feet as compared to about 6” in the Bras D’Or Lakes. The ever present evergreen forest covered the surrounding land. The spruce beetle attacked and killed many of the spruce trees some time ago and about 30% of the forest is dead, providing a rather unique look. There was an oyster aquaculture farm in the cove and we shared the anchorage with one other sailboat. It was a lovely and quiet evening, perfect for cooking our maple glaze salmon dinner on the BBQ. </div>
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Sunset in Yankee Cove - oyster aquaculture in<br />
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Saturday August 20: Today’s destination was Shelter Cove in Popes Harbour, about 71 nautical miles further along the Nova Scotia coast. Locally, the anchorage is known as Sally’s Cove. Once again, it was a lovely cruising day with somewhat smaller ocean swells and light wind waves. Watching the shoreline pass by, one couldn’t help but think of the immense challenge for early explorers from France, England and elsewhere attempting to navigate this rock strewn shoreline with its seemingly infinite number of islands, inlets, rocks and shoals, some just above the waters surface and some much scarier ones just below the surface. Tides, currents, plus fog, rain and mist would be serious obstacles to a safe passage along the shore. We learned at the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic that there are well over 10,000 wrecks along the shores of Nova Scotia and its possibly as many as 25,000. Those navigators and captains of centuries passed would surely marvel at today’s electronic navigation tools with chart plotters, radar, depth sounders and auto pilots allowing us straightforward navigation to each days destination. </div>
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Shelter Cove was recommended by our sailing friend Denis as a favourite. Indeed, it is a well named anchorage providing tremendous protection from the wind and seas and surrounding us with lovely scenery. It was a rather late arrival, but we fit in a short happy hour aboard Wings. We stayed put in Shelter Cove on Sunday and after completing some boat chores unique to salt water cruising (clean and wax stainless steel railings and fittings), we toured around the area by dinghy including a nearby beach that locals picnic at. We had a Happy Hour and game of Sequence aboard Tug’n. </div>
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We’d heard about another lovely beach one could explore by going to the head of the cove we were anchored in and traversing a 200 meter piece of land. This was apparently best done at low tide, so when the water rose, your dingy would be floating, rather than beaching your dinghy in a falling tide and not being able to drag it back in the water when you returned. So, after dinner, we went off to see this beach. We got our dinghy within 10 feet of shore and it hit bottom. I climbed into the water with water sandals and found myself ankle deep in black muck and quickly concluded this was not a great idea. I pushed the dinghy around and back into deeper water and with some difficulty got back in with muck covering me from my toes to my knees and making a colossal mess of our dinghy. Not all adventures end well…</div>
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Shelter Cove at low tide - seaweed covered rocks<br />
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Monday August 22nd. As usual, we studied the forecast first thing and then had a three way VHF radio discussion to make a travel decision. Our next destination was Halifax and the forecast would put the ocean swells on our stern corner resulting in a significant rolling, corkscrew kind of motion of our boat while underway. While the forecast was not great, it was much better than the next three days, so, at 0900 hours, we raised anchor and were on our way with Sir Tugley Blue and Wings. After a short while, Sir Tugley decided they’d return to the Shelter Cove anchorage. For the first few hours, about every fifth swell would give us a really good roll of up to 26 degrees to one side or the other, which can be quite tiring. We experimented with different speeds and concluded about 7.2 knots was significantly more comfortable than 8 knots. The further we went along, we were on a more westerly course and the ride gradually got more comfortable. </div>
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About an hour before the entrance to Halifax Harbour, I spotted a new target on our radar about three miles ahead of us and I started to “track” it with the radar tracking feature. Because of mist and light fog, we could not see it with our eyes. A minute later I was shocked to see the radar reported the target was moving at 81 knots and was off my screen in no time at all. The answer came shortly afterwards as the blip turned out to be a military helicopter. A little while later we came upon a smoke flare on the water that the helicopter had dropped and they were practicing approaching the flare and hovering about 50 feet above the water. There is always something interesting to observe on the water.</div>
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Entering Halifax Harbour is exciting. We saw two cruise ships tied up at the downtown Halifax piers as well as several container ships at the commercial harbour. The city of Halifax is located on a peninsula. Downtown Halifax and its commercial harbour are on one side of the peninsula and several yacht clubs, rowing clubs and fabulous residential housing/mansions are on the other side on what is called the Northwest Arm. Originally, at the suggestion of our friend Denis, we’d planned on staying at the Royal Nova Scotia Yacht Squadron on a mooring. However, on entering the harbour, the south east wind was causing waves to move up the Northwest Arm and it would cause quite a bit of wave slapping on the hard chines on our hull making a lot of interior noise for sleeping. We decided to go all the way to the end of the Northwest Arm to Armdale Yacht Club and took a mooring there with a little better wave protection. The trip up the Northwest Arm was amazing as we gawked at the waterfront properties along both sides. We had no idea Halifax was so picturesque. </div>
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Beautiful properties along Northwest Arm</div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjy8NPMXC_Cef3HkoFTLvwLkOcnrHiYYFpxWIuyaNoAfMqXnZgcvK1LteA_WuMzQOeugE2cIohXe2J35_0-vH0WZ07xpWi-oIaOlmfb7MlC8A2lc2j7LQamVDoB4z4WvywKoHfrE9bDUG0/s1600/IMG_1457.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjy8NPMXC_Cef3HkoFTLvwLkOcnrHiYYFpxWIuyaNoAfMqXnZgcvK1LteA_WuMzQOeugE2cIohXe2J35_0-vH0WZ07xpWi-oIaOlmfb7MlC8A2lc2j7LQamVDoB4z4WvywKoHfrE9bDUG0/s320/IMG_1457.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihggrNctBQhXDvF7fL3Q5jAIIt2MagajH_mDozzQQWd27yVcm7Z586_wyXxvgS8X6B7ymwJlnuEy2tPBEuRK4Sz3hY8yx3WXPPSdpwd_RKWG_7O22PKqSGMrYiNyTVfq4HQm7SUGqcNvQ/s1600/IMG_1459.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihggrNctBQhXDvF7fL3Q5jAIIt2MagajH_mDozzQQWd27yVcm7Z586_wyXxvgS8X6B7ymwJlnuEy2tPBEuRK4Sz3hY8yx3WXPPSdpwd_RKWG_7O22PKqSGMrYiNyTVfq4HQm7SUGqcNvQ/s320/IMG_1459.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
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Royal Nova Scotia Yacht Squadron<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir4uMa1staYj6YV_ALl1szfcRRvzXAbKSANBdaXu4MT6oiT79ogvtxGww_zaFbUXKW1h2d-C7T6teyPUBw-XaVDK-IaoGKEguQAsoxgr-1eUKh0GIpQvOA-I6OzCvADYDK0ydNa2dxXTA/s1600/IMG_1453.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir4uMa1staYj6YV_ALl1szfcRRvzXAbKSANBdaXu4MT6oiT79ogvtxGww_zaFbUXKW1h2d-C7T6teyPUBw-XaVDK-IaoGKEguQAsoxgr-1eUKh0GIpQvOA-I6OzCvADYDK0ydNa2dxXTA/s320/IMG_1453.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
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Denis had offered to take us around town by car to do our chores. He picked us up at 0930 and in the space of two hours we bought groceries, filled a BBQ propane tank, got a haircut for Fran, picked up beer, got cash from the bank, visited Canadian Tire and got back to the boat. What a wonderful treat that was as normally these activities might take a whole day. That left our afternoon open for a trip into downtown where we met Bob & Jan from Wings for a lovely lunch at the Bicycle Thief restaurant on the waterfront. After that, we did a tour of the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic. This wonderful museum included presentations/displays on:</div>
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<li style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Helvetica; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="line-height: normal;"></span>Days of Sail - stories of Nova Scotia’s magnificent sailing vessels</li>
<li style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Helvetica; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="line-height: normal;"></span>Shipwreck Treasures - Nova Scotia has well over 10,000 wrecks (possibly up to 25,000) and an immense amount of underwater archaeology as a result</li>
<li style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Helvetica; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="line-height: normal;"></span>Convoy Exhibit - tells how Nova Scotia helped in the struggle to supply Europe in the face of submarine attacks during World War II</li>
<li style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Helvetica; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="line-height: normal;"></span>Halifax Explosion - a moving exhibit on the 1917 Halifax explosion from the collision of two ships, one loaded with explosives, that levelled a large part of the city instantly killing about 2,000 and injuring more than 9,000 residents</li>
<li style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Helvetica; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="line-height: normal;"></span>Navy - an exhibit explaining the early hears of Halifax as a British naval power</li>
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and much more. One comes away from this museum with a deeper understanding of the immense seafaring history of Nova Scotia.</div>
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Lunch with Bob & Jan at the Bicycle Thief</div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPpDoeMdRHbsdHhZJXjRTSlmoy9y41etsu0RqbZd3MwttGTXkuIcJyssF6bDeb94VXdKmJuAiTgCIUzma7aLV_4zqZvH0DMs3bWtwPPHLh2iV6ef5PcOkzXjdlhDMwITSMvO05e3WiTQI/s1600/IMG_1474.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPpDoeMdRHbsdHhZJXjRTSlmoy9y41etsu0RqbZd3MwttGTXkuIcJyssF6bDeb94VXdKmJuAiTgCIUzma7aLV_4zqZvH0DMs3bWtwPPHLh2iV6ef5PcOkzXjdlhDMwITSMvO05e3WiTQI/s320/IMG_1474.jpg" width="240" /></a><br />
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One of many model ships at Maritime Museum<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjub6XJ7A7X5APtFifGUNq6IHm8j5u6WUvS6JP-RIJGlqArfs96i_AhBV9F4u4Xng2P_gYUOhMjx-ZX13F3_ykbWEbczgA1MsCO-V4gSHXcXxCppYQejkmvR0DmM1Gyr1fW_CKL2_IQswk/s1600/IMG_1506.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjub6XJ7A7X5APtFifGUNq6IHm8j5u6WUvS6JP-RIJGlqArfs96i_AhBV9F4u4Xng2P_gYUOhMjx-ZX13F3_ykbWEbczgA1MsCO-V4gSHXcXxCppYQejkmvR0DmM1Gyr1fW_CKL2_IQswk/s320/IMG_1506.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
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Canadian Hydrographic Society ship Acadia in service<br />
from 1913 to 1969. Also served in Canadian Navy in<br />
two world wars<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLHMXs2bps9lsWLFfqrjv3bsM8GzNJ9Mje7kC3-cmQzaFkNOs9q_0abFubIKmw_ELLzB-NHmeH4hPkqOhT9HBRpaLRFekMKAqITw-E5L87UrnSqombx2V04STeULVjEL2tyb8iK-1tq1w/s1600/IMG_1491.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLHMXs2bps9lsWLFfqrjv3bsM8GzNJ9Mje7kC3-cmQzaFkNOs9q_0abFubIKmw_ELLzB-NHmeH4hPkqOhT9HBRpaLRFekMKAqITw-E5L87UrnSqombx2V04STeULVjEL2tyb8iK-1tq1w/s320/IMG_1491.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
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Models of complete Canadian Navy (13 vessels) at<br />
the start of WWII. By the end of the war the Canadian<br />
Navy had 452 ships<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQBJD2cl4PhdJ26V6f_QH8iD16PzPYrvOW1jkTrb85hjMaTP972gbF5TG_mz1gAT2MnHPwgTXqRT26tQ65ekg5uAajHCet_Au6EgahNt_2KF8r5jTMCLx7byFlMcMRmok9ZKoUPWkz9-U/s1600/IMG_1518.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQBJD2cl4PhdJ26V6f_QH8iD16PzPYrvOW1jkTrb85hjMaTP972gbF5TG_mz1gAT2MnHPwgTXqRT26tQ65ekg5uAajHCet_Au6EgahNt_2KF8r5jTMCLx7byFlMcMRmok9ZKoUPWkz9-U/s320/IMG_1518.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
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On Wednesday, after a morning of washing and wiping the boat hull (removing all the salt crystals) we were picked up by Denis for a lunch with he and Denise at the Royal Nova Scotia Yacht Squadron. Their club is sensational, situated on the south side of the Northwest Arm. The club relocated here in the early 1960’s, converting a former lovely residence into a club house, digging out a basin, adding docks, moorings, two swimming pools, a junior sailing school and more. We had lunch out on their patio under a large awning overlooking the boats and the water and had a wonderful time catching up with Denis and Denise. The last time we’d had a get together was about 18 years ago in Oakville.</div>
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After lunch, Denis dropped us off at Pier 21.</div>
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Fran & I with Denise & Denis</div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiF0TwwtpuPiIKccdRE_i7hFeOC85REExn2eZoHXFJUvGiZCXen2dfGMLngPROoM3zDeK53WBpBC9bxwGZ-IUabZMun8Hw4KRCWB5tsSFQ_L2v5jEHVTMh4yImVlR9SStCkWQeRHcWkkX8/s1600/IMG_1526.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiF0TwwtpuPiIKccdRE_i7hFeOC85REExn2eZoHXFJUvGiZCXen2dfGMLngPROoM3zDeK53WBpBC9bxwGZ-IUabZMun8Hw4KRCWB5tsSFQ_L2v5jEHVTMh4yImVlR9SStCkWQeRHcWkkX8/s320/IMG_1526.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
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<b>Pier 21 - The Building of Canada</b></div>
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This is another wonderful museum managed by Parks Canada. Pier 21 was the gateway for over 1 million immigrants from Europe from 1928 to 1971. They all arrived by ship and were processed (medical, immigration, customs, temporary housing and for those headed beyond Halifax they would board the train right beside the warehouse for points west). </div>
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We were particularly impressed that the museum told the whole story, acknowledging what an enormous impact European immigration had on the First Nations population, who had inhabited what is now Canada for thousands of years before. Additional and notable components of the museum included:</div>
<ul>
<li style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Helvetica; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="line-height: normal;"></span>A video made up of interviews with immigrants to Canada covering where they came from, why they came to Canada, how they got to Canada, what their first impressions were, how they landed on their feet and what they are doing today. The stories were very personal and some made you laugh out loud and some made you cry tears of joy and sorrow</li>
<li style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Helvetica; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="line-height: normal;"></span>Explanation and acknowledgement of the abuse of Chinese immigrants brought here to build the railway across Canada and once completed, charging a head tax if they wanted to stay & refusing to give them citizenship or rights</li>
<li style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Helvetica; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="line-height: normal;"></span>Explanation and acknowledgement of the internment of Japanese Canadians during the second world war, confiscating their property and assets and denying them their rights as Canadian citizens</li>
<li style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Helvetica; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="line-height: normal;"></span>Acknowledgement of a variety of exclusionary immigration policies that barred immigration from many countries </li>
<li style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Helvetica; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="line-height: normal;"></span>Explanation and acknowledgement of racially charged events such as the Christie Pits Riots that pitted Jewish and Italian immigrants against anti immigrant white thugs</li>
<li style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Helvetica; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="line-height: normal;"></span>Detailed explanations of how Canada’s immigration policies evolved over the last 400 years to today’s far more enlightened and equitable policies. </li>
<li style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Helvetica; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="line-height: normal;"></span>Many examples of how immigrants helped build this country - Canadian Railroads (Chinese and Irish immigrants); Canada’s first subway in Toronto and the Rideau Canal built by Irish immigrants etc</li>
<li style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Helvetica; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="line-height: normal;"></span>Tour guides walked visitors through the process an immigrant would go through and what it was like arriving at Pier 21</li>
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<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Helvetica;">In the end, we felt very proud of the Canada we have today and the leadership it is showing with its immigration policies and the contribution immigrants have made to Canada’s rich culture, economy and way of life. </span><br />
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The sign immigrants to Canada would see upon entry<br />
into Pier 21. Language was a big challenge for the<br />
staff and volunteers<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOp3_HkdEn989qd86mHQPiuCvVveg_F0bJicP9LpxrH5jzeBBbTEAlMrhkD7Vpu0h8rlHAFTkqnhFMQzRE1yUMIQvTQAmK1szbVyVQ50TsTQ4KKcawFWv-psdzyfyFdyTYymcv5Qk6a6M/s1600/IMG_1532.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOp3_HkdEn989qd86mHQPiuCvVveg_F0bJicP9LpxrH5jzeBBbTEAlMrhkD7Vpu0h8rlHAFTkqnhFMQzRE1yUMIQvTQAmK1szbVyVQ50TsTQ4KKcawFWv-psdzyfyFdyTYymcv5Qk6a6M/s320/IMG_1532.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
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An historical photo of immigrants getting an explanation<br />
on what the process at Pier 21 would be<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHUdv8UMAjA1ytIife3qfRp2in9mpe210fWKU40RCMeRYll1BsWAaOBc37UP_ERVbHDnHPAiro9voMhAawy8zxMfr99HLQwdotDsuODmpESNGCu1RUybxMZ7mA8Mc14z0JlnYTM_J0P2E/s1600/IMG_1533.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHUdv8UMAjA1ytIife3qfRp2in9mpe210fWKU40RCMeRYll1BsWAaOBc37UP_ERVbHDnHPAiro9voMhAawy8zxMfr99HLQwdotDsuODmpESNGCu1RUybxMZ7mA8Mc14z0JlnYTM_J0P2E/s320/IMG_1533.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
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Thursday August 25, 2016</div>
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Today’s main event was touring the Halifax Citadel National Historic Site. The site was originally founded in 1749 as a strategic base for the British Royal Navy and a strong counterbalance to the French stronghold in Louisbourg on Cape Breton. The site has been home to four citadels, all built on the same high ground above the original town plot. The first three forts were built of earth and logs and served through the Seven Years War, the American Revolution, the Napoleonic Wars and the War of 1812. But after 1815 the British authorities decided that the old wooden forts defending Canada’s strategic strong points should be more powerful and permanent and built of stone. The new and current Citadel was built between 1828 and 1856. The star shaped fortress is formally known as Fort George and its massive masonry construction was designed to repel a land-based attack by Unites States as well as having a clear harbour view. It was inspired by designs during Louis XIV’s time. </div>
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In 1867 British North America became the Dominion of Canada, but the continuing importance of Halifax as a port for the Royal Navy saw British troops remain there until 1906. After that, the Citadel was occupied by the Canadian military and it remained active through two World Wars until 1951 when it was transferred to Parks Canada. Today, as a museum, it is staffed and organized as it would have been in 1869 when Queen Victoria reigned and the new Nation of Canada was just two years old. Exploring the ramparts and tunnels, talking with staff in period clothes and using the interactive tools one gains an understanding of what life was like in this bygone era. </div>
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The combination of visits to the Citadel, the Immigration Museum and the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic really gives one great insight into the extremely important role Halifax and Nova Scotia have played in Canada’s history. Each site does a wonderful job of presenting the history and we’ve had a great time enjoying the hospitality of Halifax. </div>
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The adventure continues.</div>
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Fran and Judy at entrance to Halifax Citadel<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_Vc_Q4dmpHJYI5Fn6hyphenhyphenBOJ2XsW9UIYHyfrbHv1IraPvkPR3ky-B0DpJbn7OInuueFnMJKierMGEJXiV33xWeCj4Wz2OHWW9u9ZCqLpjqKA4GIcqFt0hK4AbLwaunC8VkvUfxGQRQAyIc/s1600/IMG_1540.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_Vc_Q4dmpHJYI5Fn6hyphenhyphenBOJ2XsW9UIYHyfrbHv1IraPvkPR3ky-B0DpJbn7OInuueFnMJKierMGEJXiV33xWeCj4Wz2OHWW9u9ZCqLpjqKA4GIcqFt0hK4AbLwaunC8VkvUfxGQRQAyIc/s320/IMG_1540.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
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Courtyard inside the Halifax Citadel<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwInS9h_uJpnwFxvbWuXRQAQTNLmVcd17Jaf_JtMafN7WfooOBQTXy4zc4T1fbzI8mjSv3SzXDVV94x4_SKGUihy-Z1uVYpaaPMHzCa1wbHD4MFs3-Wdcsj2mVZGnq8tOlWOgJVmur4r4/s1600/IMG_1542.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwInS9h_uJpnwFxvbWuXRQAQTNLmVcd17Jaf_JtMafN7WfooOBQTXy4zc4T1fbzI8mjSv3SzXDVV94x4_SKGUihy-Z1uVYpaaPMHzCa1wbHD4MFs3-Wdcsj2mVZGnq8tOlWOgJVmur4r4/s320/IMG_1542.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
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Display of WW1 trenches in France<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5OEDTsbVzS5iKL3bYtknV2Fau6JcRJwlw9tRUvpCVr4A-kRI2r0pk6__Y_Ix8t-LiVebIJCTXM8n0a7ALU88MSLrl29l0g8HO7IXBbu8RWyMZAKCOGdjPoHkvSi-fASBI25V1oFf8wOU/s1600/IMG_1567.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5OEDTsbVzS5iKL3bYtknV2Fau6JcRJwlw9tRUvpCVr4A-kRI2r0pk6__Y_Ix8t-LiVebIJCTXM8n0a7ALU88MSLrl29l0g8HO7IXBbu8RWyMZAKCOGdjPoHkvSi-fASBI25V1oFf8wOU/s320/IMG_1567.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
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Posing for photo after noon firing of the canon<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihLj983AYn5wWB3yBlItHdvjnRVQxevE2v_oQN0oXfLPcTf86B5hxF4h0WxfgJq9ikONTS4i3NtC7_cEZt-dLFeFrA34vWCpWr0tXwRVpn1nBVj0SUA1CVlcvdq8ZNudzjkWUoKbbd1V0/s1600/IMG_1576.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihLj983AYn5wWB3yBlItHdvjnRVQxevE2v_oQN0oXfLPcTf86B5hxF4h0WxfgJq9ikONTS4i3NtC7_cEZt-dLFeFrA34vWCpWr0tXwRVpn1nBVj0SUA1CVlcvdq8ZNudzjkWUoKbbd1V0/s320/IMG_1576.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
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<br />Adventures of Fran and Stephenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13217182448252927451noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1905445316771270903.post-5915612138626078672016-08-24T06:58:00.003-07:002016-08-24T06:58:44.672-07:00BRAS D'OR LAKES - AUGUST 8 TO 19, 2016<br />
Here are the places we travelled during this blog<br />
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Monday August 8, 2016</div>
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After five days at the St Peters Marina, we were all more than ready to go anchoring and exploring the Bras d’Or Lakes. As you’ll see from the photo below, the Bras d’Or Lakes have a southwest to northeast orientation in valleys carved by the glaciers. While the surrounding oceans of the Atlantic Maritimes have big seas, fog, tides, currents and other navigational challenges, the Bras d’Or Lakes have barely 6” of tide, next to no fog, moderate seas and easy navigation. We’d all been gathering local knowledge from other boaters we’d met at the marina and gradually sifted through the many recommendations to come up with a manageable list of anchorages to choose from. </div>
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Our first anchorage was at Cape George Harbour in St. Peters Inlet, an anchorage favoured by local boaters. It was not particularly attractive and it had a steady stream of boats passing through, so we here happy enough to move on the next day to Little Harbour along the north shore of West Bay. It is a larger anchorage with a narrow entrance providing good protection from all directions. On our first night we were the only four boats in the anchorage. The second night we shared it with a ~55’ Selene trawler and a 90’ Burger yacht, among others. We’ve been surprised by the number of very, very large yachts that come to cruise Cape Breton’s Bras D’Or Lakes. It was delightful to be anchoring again and we kept ourselves busy with a few boat chores/projects and doing some exploring by dinghy as well as happy hours for board games with our gang.</div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;">On Thursday August 10th we moved a short distance to explore Malagawatch Harbour, eventually anchoring in River Cove. While it was pretty enough, we woke up the next morning to a deck covered with microscopic bugs the size of finely ground black pepper that were tough to wash away. Also, when raising the anchor we hauled up some sort of large, abandoned aquaculture container for muscles or oysters, which thankfully proved simple to remove. Our next stop for Friday and Saturday was through the Barra Strait into Great Bras d’Or Lake and into</span><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;"> </span><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;">Maskells Harbour. It is a snug, well-sheltered harbour surrounded by high rolling hills with a long, low-lying sand and rock spit almost closing off the entrance. So far, this is about the prettiest anchorage we’ve seen. The water was clear and about 20 degrees C, the sun was bright and warm and the wind was light, making it irresistible, so I gave in an enjoyed my first salt water swim of the summer. Various boats came and when during our two day stay. We were intrigued by a local practice of both sail and power boats to run them up on shore (power boats) or run the keel into the sandy bottom (sail) for a few hours, then back off and head home. An added bonus at Maskells Harbour were the two resident bald eagles who spent hours watching for fish and swooping low over the water to attempt making a catch. They failed to complete a catch while we watched, but based on their healthy glow, we assumed they'd enjoyed reasonable success.</span><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;"> </span></div>
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Tug'n at anchor in Maskells Harbour</div>
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Beach combing in Maskells Harbour<br />
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Lovely rolling hills in Maskells Harbour. Tug'n,<br />
Encore & Wings in background<br />
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On Sunday we made our way to Baddeck for a few days to enjoy this most charming waterfront village and boating centre. Approaching Baddeck one can’t help by notice the lovely large estate on the hill above a point of land called Red Head. It is Beinn Bhreag, the old home of Alexander and Mabel Bell. Baddeck residents are justifiably proud of their former resident whom most know is responsible for inventing the telephone. </div>
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Alexander Graham Bell was born on March 3, 1847 in Edinburgh, Scotland. Due to health issues experienced by Alex and his brother, the family moved to Brantford, Ontario in 1870 and shortly afterwards Alex moved to Boston to teach. Five years later, he had his telephone invention patented and then spend the next 18 years successfully fighting about 600 lawsuits over his patent. While on holidays in 1885, the Bell family visited Baddeck to see if it was as idyllic as advertised. Falling in love with it, they bought property and built their home and this became Alex’s base for a vast array of inventions over the remaining 37 years of his life. In 1952, some thirty years after his death, his family decided there was so much more to Bell’s life that the public should know, so they donated the bulk of his photos, mementos, gadgets and gizmos to the Canadian Federal Government, who agreed to set up a museum in his honour. </div>
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Parks Canada established the Alexander Graham Bell National Historic Site in 1952. The museum is wonderfully done and contains exhibits and explanations of Bell’s many inventions and experiments, including:</div>
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<li style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Helvetica; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="line-height: normal;"></span>Silver Dart - the first controlled powered flight in Canada</li>
<li style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Helvetica; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="line-height: normal;"></span>HD-4 - the hydrofoil that broke a marine speed record</li>
<li style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Helvetica; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="line-height: normal;"></span>experiments in sheep breeding</li>
<li style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Helvetica; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="line-height: normal;"></span>experiments with kite flying </li>
<li style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Helvetica; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="line-height: normal;"></span>world recognized work in the field of deaf education, Both his mother and wife were deaf, profoundly influencing his life’s work. </li>
<li style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Helvetica; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="line-height: normal;"></span>Bell’s most famous patient was Helen Keller, who came to him as a young child unable to see, hear or speak. She credits Bell with turning her darkness into light</li>
<li style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Helvetica; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="line-height: normal;"></span>Bell strongly believed that with resources and effort, they could teach the deaf to speak and avoid the use of sign language, thus enabling their integration within the wider society from which many were excluded</li>
<li style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Helvetica; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="line-height: normal;"></span>Alex and Mabel Bell’s own grandchildren did not know their grandmother was deaf until after she had died. They all assumed a family practice of taping the table when one was to speak was normal. That tapping action allowed Mabel Bell to know who to watch so she could lip read what they were saying.</li>
<li style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Helvetica; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="line-height: normal;"></span>National Geographic Society - while Bell was not one of the 33 founders, he had a strong influence on the magazine while serving as its second president from January 7, 1898 to 1903</li>
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<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Helvetica;">The Museum reveals the extraordinary heart and mind of a world-famous inventor whose genius helped shape the modern world. You can feel his legacy as you explore the remarkable artifacts, photos and full-scale replicas that mark his masterful career as an engineer, inventor, scientist and humanitarian. The Bell’s employed many Baddeck residents and stories still abound in the community from their descendants. Our tour guide’s great uncle worked with Bell in his laboratory at Beinn Bhreag.</span><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 11px;"> </span><br />
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In Baddeck at Alexander Graham Bell National Historic<br />
Site Museum. Fran & a working model of Bell's<br />
Silver Dart aircraft<br />
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Model of Bell's HD-4 Hydrofoil<br />
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Fran meeting up with Mabel and Alec Bell<br />
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The Bell Estate on <span style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Helvetica;">Beinn Bhreag</span><br />
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One of many lovely homes in Baddeck<br />
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<b>Ceilidh</b>: (pronounced kay-lee) A Traditional Gaelic social gathering with usually involves playing Gaelic folk music and dancing. It originated in Scotland and Ireland</div>
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When visiting Cape Breton, its Scottish heritage the Gaelic influence is impossible to miss. The Royal Cape Breton Gaelic College was founded in 1938 and it is dedicated to perpetuation of the Highland Scottish Gaelic culture. Its curriculum includes Gaelic language, Gaelic song, Gaelic history, Gaelic storytelling, Gaelic drama, Traditional bagpiping, Cape Breton fiddling, Cape Breton step dance, Highland dance, Bodhran, Harp, Whistle and weaving. The Gaelic heritage is a source of great pride for the Cape Breton residents of Scottish heritage. </div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;">We attended a Ceilidh in Baddeck. Nancy, a local resident has organized Ceilidh’s at the local parish hall, seven nights a week during the summer months for the past 16 years. The hall only holds 100 people and it is sold out every night. On the evening we attended, we had a fiddler and a piano player, both in their mid 30’s and they entertained us with a broad mix of Cape Breton and Scottish tunes, modern and traditional, ballads, jigs, reels and more. They are both teachers at the Gaelic College and perform regularly in Cape Breton and many other venues across the country. Both performers grew up on Cape Breton and were immersed in the Gaelic culture and Ceilidh gatherings since their youth. It was a great treat to experience this music and appreciate that this music’s roots in Cape Breton go back to the early 18th century and have changed very little since then.</span></div>
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The Ceilidh at Baddeck Parrish Hall</div>
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Baddeck Marine was the first time we’d ever used a mooring ball. When we first approached the “mooring field” it was alarming how close the boats are to each other. Each mooring ball is chained to a great block of concrete on the bottom and it has a large ~ 20” float on the surface of the water with two long pendants (ropes) that you pick up with a boat hook and tie to your bow cleats. In the rain we managed to tie up to the mooring ball and then we began to watch closely as the boats all swung on their mooring. We were nervous at first, watching the boats move to and fro, with different timing and you’d swear there would be collisions, but they all stayed in order and no bumps were witnessed. The closest we came to a collision was during a period with no wind and Tug’n just missed the boat in front of us, by less than 3 feet. We’ve been told there will be many more mooring fields in our future as we head further down the east coast.</div>
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Tug'n on right - in mooring field in Baddeck</div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;">While in Baddeck we had a day of heavy rain day and found a small leak in our forward hatch over our bed. Temporarily I taped the perimeter of the hatch to stop any further leaking, while I collected the materials I needed to fix it when the weather allowed. After two great days visiting Baddeck, we headed off on Monday August 15 for an anchorage on Boularderie Island called Island Point Harbour. It was a beautiful sunny day allowing us to snap a few photos of the Bell estate as we left Baddeck. Travelling up St. Andrews Channel to our anchorage we passed many outcroppings of gypsum. The soft white rock is easily carved by the wind, rain and waves into various shapes allowing one to see faces, animals, angels and more. Our anchorage was lovely and well protected, but with the good weather I was more focussed on getting the hatch repair completed than enjoying the scenery. Removal of the hatch and frame went very smoothly with the two thin paint scrapers and wooden wedges Dave (from Sir Tugley Blue) loaned me. Removing all the old caulking from the deck and frame was another matter. Four hours later the clean up was done. Dave kindly joined me and took the lead on re-bedding the hatch frame in a most expert fashion and now, thankfully, our bed is no longer vulnerable in the rain. Wednesday turned out to be another 18 hour rain day, so the re-bedded hatch got a good work out and survived the test.</span></div>
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Sculptured gypsum rock in Island Point Harbour<br />
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Thursday, we headed to one of the anchorages recommended by my sailing friend and former colleague Denis, who lives and sails out of Halifax. It’s called Marble Mountain and/or Clark Cove. Marble Mountain is the name of a small village on Bras D’Or Lake. The name of the mountain that was mined for marble from 1869 to 1921 is North Mountain. The enormous scar on the side of North Mountain can be see from miles around. In the early 1900’s, the mine employed over 1,000 men and supplied marble all over North America for flooring, counter tops and high end furniture. The town even had a power plant, built to supply electricity to the mine and local homes, while the rest of Cape Breton was still using candles and lamps for lighting. The area has many spots for anchoring and no visit is complete without a hike to the top of the marble quarry to soak up spectacular views of Bras D’Or Lake.</div>
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Views from top of marble quarry on North Mountain<br />
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Friday August 19th was the end of our visit to the Bras D’Or Lakes. We were up early and off to St. Peters to do some chores and then commence our journey down the south east shore of Nova Scotia in the Atlantic Ocean for the first time on this adventure. Stay tuned!</div>
<br />Adventures of Fran and Stephenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13217182448252927451noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1905445316771270903.post-4322277765426325012016-08-17T10:01:00.002-07:002016-08-17T10:01:25.464-07:00CAPE BRETON - CABOT TRAIL & LOUISBOURG FORTRESS - August 6 to 8, 2016<div style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Helvetica; line-height: normal;">
The Cabot Trail is a 298 kilometre scenic roadway loop in northern Cape Breton passing along and through the Cape Breton Highlands National Park. It is of course named after explorer John Cabot who landed in Atlantic Canada in 1497. Most historians believe his first landfall was likely in Newfoundland and not Cape Breton Island, although Premier Angus L. MacDonald attempted to re-brand Nova Scotia for tourism purposes, as primarily Scottish. As part of this effort he created both the names Cape Breton Highlands and Cabot Trail and construction of the initial route was completed inn 1932.</div>
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While in St. Peters, our group managed to rent two vehicles for two days of touring Cape Breton island. Day one was devoted to the Cabot Trail. We packed a lunch and also an overnight bag in case we found a motel or Bed and Breakfast with a vacancy, as the driving distances from St. Peters are rather long.</div>
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En route to the Cabot Trail we stopped in the Dingwall area for lunch and then had a guided tour of the St Paul Island Museum and Lighthouse. Nova Scotia has more lighthouses than any other province in Canada with ~ 150 at the present time. St Paul Island, 13 nautical miles off the northeast coast of Cape Breton Island, is locally known as the graveyard of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, with over 350 shipwrecks occurring there over the last 400 years. Because of the extreme danger to shipping through the Gulf of St. Lawrence to Quebec City, the British government decided to build two wooden lighthouses on St. Paul Island. The first southwest light was built in 1839, but was destroyed by fire in 1916. A cast iron replacement (the first in Canada) was prefabricated in sections in Ontario in 1915 and shipped to Cape Breton by train. It took two years to transport the sections to Cape Breton and move them to St Paul Island by boat and then bolt the sections together. This lighthouse was replaced in 1982 by an automated one and the cast iron lighthouse now sits in Dingwall at the St Paul Island Museum.</div>
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St Paul Island Museum & Lighthouse</div>
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The museum and lighthouse are a tribute to the light keepers and their families. From the photos and artifacts at the museum, it is hard to imagine a more remote and isolated existence. However, we were told folks lined up to apply for the job. Those who were married were given priority as it meant there was a backup light keeper (the wife) if the husband fell ill or died. These dedicated souls helped keep the lights burning and shipping safer, at considerable hardship for many years. Automation of course ended these careers but their story is forever linked to Canada’s early history.</div>
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The Cabot Trail and the Cape Breton Highland National Park are simply spectacular. The forests are endless. The switchback roadway climbs to high peaks with magnificent shoreline and ocean vistas. We passed many very fit cyclists loaded down with gear for their long and challenging tour of the Cabot Trail. We also passed many less fit folk on motorcycles enjoying the ride on the lovely winding roadway. Later in the afternoon we stopped for a great early dinner at the Rusty Anchor Restaurant along the northwest shore of Cape Breton for a feed of Crab Cakes and Sole Fish N Chips. We wisely heeded advice to do the Cabot Trail drive in a counter clockwise direction so most of the time we’d be pulling off to the right hand side of the road (and back on again) at the countless “lookouts” we stopped at for yet another photo. Despite our best efforts, we found no motel or B&B vacancies.It was a lovely day and we were blessed with perfect weather for this drive, but we were well worn out as we didn’t get back to our boats until just before dark.</div>
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Photos of Cabot Trail<br />
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Sunday August 7, 2016<br />
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Day 2 of our car rental took us back up to Cape Breton’s northeast shoreline to see the Fortress of Louisbourg. This 18th century French fortress is a National Historic Site and its also been designated a Unesco World Heritage Site. The original settlement was made in 1713 as a fishing port and it grew to become a major commercial port and a strongly defended fortress. Fortified walls eventually surrounded the town and by the mid 1740’s Louisbourg was one of the most extensive and expensive European fortifications constructed in North America. </div>
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Louisbourg suffered several key weaknesses. It was erected on low lying ground with low-lying hills around it and all its defences were directed toward sea-based assaults leaving land-based defences rather weak. Secondly, it was a very long way from France or Quebec from where reinforcements might be sent. As a result, Louisbourg was captured by the British in 1745 and it became a key bargaining chip in the negotiations leading to the 1748 treaty ending the War of the Austrian Succession. Louisbourg was returned to France in exchange for border towns in what is now Belgium. It was captured again by the British in 1758 in the Seven Years War after which its fortifications were systematically destroyed. </div>
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Starting in 1961 and throughout the 1960’s and 70’s, the Canadian Federal Government undertook a historical reconstruction of one quarter of the town and fortifications with the aim of recreating Louisbourg as it would have been at its height in the 1740’s. Unemployed coal miners were trained in French masonry techniques from the 18th century and other skills to create an accurate replica from drawings found in France. The work required interdisciplinary efforts by archaeologists, historians, engineers and architects. Today the site is run by Parks Canada and the fortress is staffed by locals in period costume helping visitors understand the history and what life was like in the 1740’s. It is an absolutely fascinating experience helping one gain insight Louisbourg’s importance in shaping Canada’s early history.</div>
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At the end of the day, after returning our rented cars, Jan (off of Wings) hosted a dinner in the marina clubhouse to celebrate Bob’s birthday. What a wonderful end of another perfect day on our Down East Circle Route adventure.</div>
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Pictures of Fortress of Louisbourg</div>
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Lunch, 18th Century style<br />
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Boatbuilding at Fortress of Louisbourg<br />
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Lighthouse Point, Louisbourg<br />
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35' Wings dwarfed by 90' Burger Yacht at St. Peters<br />
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<br />Adventures of Fran and Stephenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13217182448252927451noreply@blogger.com1