Across the Island to Tofino and Ucluelet

Across the Island to Tofino and Ucluelet

The next leg of our journey took us across Vancouver Island to its rugged west coast, where the land ends and the Pacific Ocean begins. Our first brief stop was Cathedral Grove in MacMillan Provincial Park—one of British Columbia’s most magical and accessible old-growth forests. Towering Douglas firs and red cedars reach heights of up to 250 feet and circumferences of 30 feet, with many trees over 800 years old. Walking among them is nothing short of awe-inspiring.

A brief visit to see the old growth forest of Cathedral Grove, MacMillan Provincial Park

To reach Tofino, the road passes through Port Alberni, a city nestled at the head of the Alberni Inlet—a long, fjord-like waterway ideal for boating, kayaking, and exploring Barkley Sound. The city was named after a Spanish officer stationed at nearby Nootka Sound in the 1790s and was settled in the mid-1800s with the arrival of the fur trade and logging. It grew into a major forestry and fishing hub by the 20th century. In 1964, a tsunami triggered by an Alaskan earthquake caused extensive damage to the town, though fortunately, there were no fatalities.

After charging our vehicle in Port Alberni, we continued westward on a very lumpy road (not fun pulling a trailer) and then north to Tofino. Long before European contact, this region was home to the Tla-o-qui-aht First Nation, whose deep connection to the land and sea spans thousands of years. Their traditions of fishing, whaling, and cedar canoe building are still honored today.

In 1778, Captain James Cook landed at Nootka Sound, further north on the island, sparking European interest in the Pacific Northwest. In 1792, Spanish explorers Galiano and Valdés mapped the coastline and named the area Tofino, after Spanish hydrographer Vicente Tofiño. The town slowly developed as an outpost and was connected by road in 1955—a turning point in its history. The creation of Pacific Rim National Park Reserve in 1972 brought environmental protections and a growing wave of tourism.

Tofino gained international attention in the early 1990s during the Clayoquot Sound logging protests—one of the largest acts of civil disobedience in Canadian history. Over 800 people were arrested protesting clear-cut logging. The movement led to changes in forestry practices and helped shape Canada’s modern environmental movement. In 2000, Clayoquot Sound was designated a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve in recognition of its ecological and cultural value.

Today, Tofino is a vibrant coastal community known for world-class surfing, whale watching, eco-tourism, and a thriving arts and culinary scene, all while maintaining a laid-back charm. The town is a model of sustainable tourism and Indigenous collaboration, with strong partnerships between First Nations and the local tourism sector.

We stayed at the relatively new Tsawaak RV Resort, located on Mackenzie Beach. During our stay, we took a whale watching tour with Ahous Adventures, an Indigenous-owned and operated outfitter. Along with ten fellow passengers from Canada, Washington State, and Austria, we saw several gray whales. Compared to humpbacks, belugas, or minkes we've seen before, gray whales show less of their bodies—surfacing every few minutes with just a subtle rise of their heads and backs, and their tails barely breaking the surface. Still, it was thrilling to be just a few hundred feet from these massive creatures. We also spotted harbour seals, rafts of sea otters, and several bald eagles.

Our campsite at Tsawaak

Tsawaak RV shares its property with the Best Western Tin Wis Hotel, and we took full advantage of sitting on their wide beachfront, watching paddle boarders and kayakers glide across the calm bay.

MacKenzie Beach at Tsawaak RV Resort

Whale Watching Tour (our first boat ride of the year)

Seals on the rocks

Back of a grey whale

Raft of sea otters

 

Lunch at the Brown's Social House on the beach

Pacific Rim National Park Reserve

This National Park Reserve occupies a large part of the land between Tofino and Ucluelet and it is one of Canada’s most ecologically rich and culturally significant protected areas. It recognizes the long-standing presence of the Nuu-chah-nulth First Nations, who have lived, hunted, fished, and traded here for generations. The park was created in 1970 following public outcry over potential development and logging in the Long Beach area. As a reserve, it acknowledges that land claims with Indigenous groups remain unresolved and respects Indigenous title.

The park consists of three distinct units, collectively drawing over 1 million visitors annually:

• Long Beach – the most accessible and iconic, famous for surfing and storm watching

• Broken Group Islands – a kayaking paradise with over 100 small islands in Barkley Sound

• West Coast Trail – a 75 km backcountry trail originally built as a rescue route for shipwreck survivors along the “Graveyard of the Pacific”

Today, the park is co-managed with local Indigenous communities, integrating traditional knowledge, language, and stewardship practices. Interpretive signage increasingly reflects the living Indigenous history of the region.

Last winter, we tried—and failed—to book a campsite at the incredibly popular Green Point Campground, despite being online at exactly 8 a.m. on the first day of summer bookings. Every site was booked in under a minute. So on our way to Ucluelet, we stopped in to tour the campground, and after seeing it for ourselves, we understood its appeal.

A campsite at the beautiful Green Point Campground

We also hiked Trail B through the Pacific Rim Rainforest. This is a temperate rainforest (unlike tropical ones), thriving on up to 120 inches of rainfall annually. Thanks to the ocean’s moderating influence, temperatures here are mild and rarely drop below freezing. The forest is home to ancient western red cedar, Sitka spruce, hemlock, and Douglas fir—many over 800 years old. The forest floor is a living tapestry of mosses, ferns, lichens, and devil’s club. Fallen trees decay into “nurse logs,” nurturing new growth in a powerful cycle of life, death, and renewal.

We were awestruck by the rainforest's beauty and the feeling of insignificance it evoked. Standing among these giants, it’s hard not to reflect on the damage caused by clear-cut logging. Thankfully, forestry practices, especially in BC, have improved and we’re now on a more sustainable path.

At the start of the Pacific Rim Rain Forest

Among the "old growth" trees

Ucluelet: History and Coastal Character

Like Tofino, Ucluelet has deep Indigenous roots, followed by waves of European exploration, settlement, logging, and fishing. The construction of a lighthouse at Amphitrite Point in the late 1800s improved marine safety and marked Ucluelet as a key coastal outpost. During World War II, it hosted a Royal Canadian Air Force radar station and coastal defense systems. After the war, the town grew steadily, driven by marine and forestry industries.

Today, eco-tourism, storm watching, hiking, whale watching, and cultural education are central to Ucluelet’s identity. The Ucluelet First Nation remains an active presence in governance and conservation.

We also managed a walk along the enormous and beautiful Combers Beach. Shaped by waves and wind, it’s the kind of place you could walk for hours, losing track of time and distance.

Combers Beach

A Dramatic Climate Difference

One of the most striking things about this part of the trip was the dramatic climate difference between Vancouver Island’s west and east coasts. On the west coast, temperatures were cooler and the air was damp and occasionally foggy. But as we drove back toward Parksville, the clouds parted, the air warmed, and we were soon peeling off layers and switching from sweaters to shorts.

A Stop in Parksville

We stayed at Park Sands Beach Resort, which sounds grander than it is—but it’s right on the water and offers access to a scenic boardwalk. While in Parksville, we enjoyed a few highlights:

• Dinner with fellow Airstreamers Paul and Lianne (whom we’d met briefly at Beehive Campground). They also bought their rig from CanAm RV and tow with an Audi E-Tron. We had a great evening sharing many stories and sushi at Nori Japanese Restaurant in Nanaimo.

• A visit to the Parksville Beach sand sculpting competition with friends Brigitte and Roland, formerly of Oakville and now proud Parksville residents. These massive, intricate sand sculptures are part of a qualifying event for the World Championships.

• A walk through the forest and shoreline trails at Rathtrevor Beach Provincial Park, followed by refreshments and dinner at Brigitte and Roland’s lovely home.

We continue to be blown away by the beauty and diversity of Vancouver Island and have already vowed to return and explore it even more deeply.

Food art at Nori Japanese Restaurant in Nanaimo with Paul and Lianne

Strolling the Parksville beach with Brigitte and Roland

Hundreds of Inukshuks on the Parksville Beach

A couple of the large number of massive sand sculptures at Parksville Beach

Strolling the Rathtrevor Provincial Park trails

Dinner at Roland and Brigitte's home

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Next episode: Heading further up island to Comox and Campbell River...

Up Island

Up Island

On Friday, July 11th, we began our journey up island. Our first stop was Brentwood College, beautifully situated on the east shore of Vancouver Island overlooking Saanich Inlet, for our nephew Jordan’s wedding. Most of the guests were staying in the college dorms, but we had booked a campsite at Beehive RV Campground, just a five-minute drive away.

Lookout at Malahat & the ever present
Mount Baker

Thankfully there was room for our rig on the Mahalat Lookout

Friday evening featured a casual meet-and-greet on campus with the wedding party and guests staying in the dorms. It was a lovely opportunity to connect with Natalie’s family, including her parents, grandparents, and brother. Her family has deep ties to Brentwood, and her father, Brian, strongly encouraged us to move our trailer onto the college grounds. Thanks to his help, Brian found us a beautiful, shaded spot near the dorms among mature trees.

Unfortunately, six of our family members flying from Toronto had their morning flight to Victoria cancelled. They were rerouted on different flights, arriving between 9:30 p.m. and midnight—well after the evening event had ended. We were sad they missed the chance to meet everyone ahead of the big day.

Two daughters, one son-in-law, two nephews, one niece & her husband at Brentwood College

Tug'n on Brentwood property

Our immediate family all ready for the wedding

The wedding ceremony was held on one of the loveliest corners of the Brentwood property, surrounded by lush landscaping and towering trees. Following a joyful and memorable ceremony—and a celebratory glass of champagne—we were bussed a short distance to a friend’s home for a wonderful reception, dinner, and dancing. The celebration continued with an after-party back at the dorm. On Sunday, Natalie’s grandparents hosted a delightful waterfront brunch, the perfect way to cap off the festivities.

Could there be a more beautiful setting for a wedding ceremony?

The bigger family - ours plus Fran's two sisters and their kids and grandchildren including the bride and groom

Later that day, we spent some time with our daughters and their families and even squeezed in a birthday celebration for me, including a birthday dinner with Morgan, Tim and Avery. After such a full weekend, it took us a good two days to recover from all the excitement and lack of sleep!

Hanging out in our Airstream Tug'n

Early Monday morning, construction crews returned to the Brentwood campus to resume grounds work, and parents began arriving to drop off children for summer programs. We made our exit in good time and continued on our way.

En route to our next campground in Nanaimo, we stopped in the charming town of Chemainus for a rest and walking tour.

Located on the traditional territory of the Stz’uminus First Nation, Chemainus gets its name from the shíshálh word Tsa-meeun-is, meaning “broken chest,” a reference to a legendary shaman and chief who survived a serious chest injury and was said to possess supernatural powers. The Coast Salish people have inhabited this region for thousands of years, living in harmony with the land and sea, especially relying on salmon for sustenance.

European settlers began arriving in the mid-1800s, drawn by the area’s rich natural resources. A turning point came in 1862 with the establishment of a sawmill at the mouth of the Chemainus River. It later became one of the largest in the British Empire, operated by the Victoria Lumber and Manufacturing Company. The mill attracted a diverse workforce—including Chinese, Japanese, and South Asian labourers—who played a vital role in the town’s growth, often under difficult and discriminatory conditions.

By the 1980s, changes in the forestry industry led to the mill’s decline, threatening the town’s survival. In a bold effort to revitalize Chemainus, community leaders launched The Chemainus Mural Project in 1982. They transformed the town into an open-air gallery, with large-scale murals depicting local history and culture. The project was a resounding success and turned Chemainus into a thriving cultural tourism destination.

Today, Chemainus is a delightful, walkable town known for its more than 50 murals and sculptures, the Chemainus Theatre Festival, local artisans and galleries, and a vibrant harbourfront.

Chemainus famous wall murals

Plant art

Totally Canadian

Fran and the 3 bears

From there, we made our way to Living Forest Oceanside RV Park in Nanaimo. The name says it all—this is a stunning campground nestled in a forest, with ocean views, cool breezes, and plenty of shade.

Tug'n at Living Forest Oceanside RV Resort

Like many places on the island, Nanaimo sits on the ancestral land of the Snuneymuxw people, whose culture was centered around fishing, hunting, and trade, with strong spiritual ties to the land and water. In 1849, the Hudson’s Bay Company discovered coal here and quickly launched mining operations. Immigrants from China, Japan, and Europe arrived to work in the mines, which unfortunately also brought harsh working conditions and discrimination.

While Nanaimo experienced several deadly mining disasters, it prospered as a resource hub. In the 20th century, as coal declined, the city shifted to forestry, fishing, and shipping. Post-WWII development brought suburban growth, the establishment of Vancouver Island University, and regular ferry connections to Vancouver. In more recent decades, Nanaimo has embraced tourism, tech, and education, while revitalizing its historic waterfront.

Nanaimo is now known for its arts scene, scenic parks, walkable seawall—and of course, its signature dessert: the Nanaimo Bar. This no-bake treat layers chocolate, custard, and a coconut-graham crust. The city even offers a self-guided Bar Trail for visitors to sample different takes on this indulgence.

While in Nanaimo, we walked the Harbourfront and were impressed by how thoughtfully the city has used its waterfront space. A personal highlight was a visit to the North Nanaimo home of our friend and former colleague, Allen. Though he was away during our stay, he invited us to enjoy his deck, which overlooks the Salish Sea (formerly the Strait of Georgia). He left binoculars, a compass, a nautical chart—and even a bottle of wine for us. We relaxed in the shade, soaking up the incredible view. What a memorable and generous gift.

Nanaimo Waterfront Boardwalk

Locals crabbing on a public pier

Lunch at Horang - a fabulous Korean restaurant in north Nanaimo

Enjoying the view of Salish Sea and the mainland from Allen's backyard

After a couple of days in Nanaimo, we continued north to Little Qualicum Falls Provincial Park, our first BC provincial park. It did not disappoint. The 440-hectare park, established in 1940, protects old-growth Douglas-fir forest. The campground is tucked among towering trees, and while there are no hookups, our batteries and solar panels (when the sun filtered through the canopy) kept us going.

Our campsite at Little Qualicum Falls PP

In the afternoon, we hiked through the forest to the Upper Falls, which were absolutely beautiful. During spring runoff or after heavy rains, this waterfall must be a truly powerful sight.

Little Qualicum - Upper Falls

Love these forests

On Thursday, we made a stop at the famous Coombs Old Country Market – Goats on the Roof, a quirky and beloved destination for more than 50 years. The market features an incredible selection of cheeses, deli items, baked goods, and hard-to-resist treats. Later that day, we reunited with our former Oakville neighbours, Brigitte and Roland. We had dinner together at the Shady Rest Restaurant Pub in Qualicum Beach, with its stunning view of the Salish Sea, followed by dessert at their Parksville home. It had been over four years since we’d last seen them, so we had plenty to catch up on—and we'll have another opportunity to reconnect next week.

Coombs Old Country Market - Yes, there really are goats on the roof

Dinner get together with Brigitte and Roland

Next stop: Tofino and Ucluelet!