Leaving La Palma, Canary Islands for Lagos, Portugal

Leaving La Palma, Canary Islands for Lagos, Portugal

After a fantastic two week tour with Wheel & Anchor in the Canary Islands, we headed off to Portugal's Algarve region to extend our holiday for another month. 

The Algarve is Portugal’s southernmost region, bordered by the Atlantic Ocean to the south and west and Spain to the east. Known today for its dramatic limestone cliffs, golden beaches, whitewashed towns, and mild climate, the Algarve has long been shaped by the sea — economically, culturally, and strategically.

History

Ancient Roots

Human settlement in the Algarve dates back thousands of years. The Phoenicians established trading posts here around 1000 BC, drawn by natural harbours and mineral resources. The Romans later integrated the region into their province of Lusitania, developing roads, villas, fish-salting operations, and garum (fermented fish) production. Remains of Roman ruins can still be seen throughout the region.

The Moorish Era (8th–13th centuries)

In 711 AD, Muslim forces from North Africa crossed into the Iberian Peninsula. The Algarve — whose name comes from the Arabic Al-Gharb, meaning “the West” — became an important cultural and agricultural centre under Moorish rule. They introduced advanced irrigation systems, citrus fruits, almonds, figs, and distinctive architectural influences that are still visible in towns like Silves and Tavira.

Reconquest and Maritime Expansion

By 1249, the Algarve was fully reconquered by Christian forces and incorporated into the Kingdom of Portugal. In the 15th century, the region played a key role in Portugal’s Age of Discovery. From ports such as Lagos and Sagres, expeditions sailed down the coast of Africa and beyond, launching Portugal’s global maritime empire.

The 1755 Earthquake

The catastrophic Lisbon earthquake of 1755 also devastated much of the Algarve, particularly coastal towns. Many buildings were rebuilt in simpler architectural styles that still characterize parts of the region today.

From Fishing to Tourism

For centuries, the Algarve’s economy relied on fishing, agriculture (especially citrus and almonds), and later fish canning. In the 1960s, with the opening of Faro Airport and improved infrastructure, tourism began transforming the region. Today, it is one of Europe’s most popular holiday destinations.

The Algarve Today

Climate and Landscape

The Algarve enjoys more than 300 days of sunshine per year. The western coast is rugged and wind-swept, with towering cliffs and surf beaches. The central Algarve features resort towns and sandy beaches, while the eastern Algarve is flatter and known for the lagoons and barrier islands of the Ria Formosa Natural Park.

Towns and Character

• Lagos – Historic maritime city with dramatic cliffs and a lively old town.
• Albufeira – A former fishing village turned major resort destination.
• Tavira – Elegant and quieter, with Roman bridges and traditional charm.
• Sagres – Windswept and rugged, long associated with Portugal’s exploration history.
• Faro – The regional capital and transportation hub.

Each town has its own rhythm — from energetic nightlife to peaceful cobbled streets.

Economy and Lifestyle

Tourism is the dominant industry, particularly from spring through autumn. Visitors come from the across Europe, and increasingly Canada and the US. Golf courses, marinas, sailing, hiking trails, and culinary tourism all contribute to the economy. English is widely spoken in tourist areas. Winters are quiet and mild, while summer brings a surge of visitors and a much livelier atmosphere. However, beyond the resorts, life retains a slower Portuguese pace. Many inland villages remain agricultural, producing olives, cork, citrus fruit, and wine. Markets sell fresh seafood daily, and cafés serve espresso and pastries at modest prices.

Many smaller communities still practice siesta time with shops closing from 1 to 3pm

What Makes the Algarve Special

• A rare combination of dramatic natural beauty and deep history
• A climate that makes year-round living attractive
• A blend of traditional Portuguese culture with an international feel
• Excellent seafood — grilled sardines, octopus salad, and cataplana (seafood stew)

Lagos, Portugal

We chose Lagos as our home base on the Algarve. Our one-bedroom apartment is beside the Lagos Marina and an easy walk to the Old Town — an ideal location. Each day we explored a little more, while gradually equipping our kitchen for home-prepared meals, punctuated with the occasional relaxed lunch at a local restaurant.

There are plenty of Canadians here, though it is clearly shoulder season. The larger waves of European vacationers will begin arriving in March and beyond. Portugal (and neighbouring Spain) endured a month of heavy rain and significant flooding before we arrived, so we are especially grateful to be enjoying mild temperatures and mostly pleasant weather since settling in.

Views from our apartment

Lagos (on coast near bottom left) is our home base for the next month 

Lagos local fish market

Lagos Marina

Local talent with a bird flying by

Lots of great board walks

Miles of beaches

Creative wall mural

A Slower Pace on La Palma - Farming the Sustainable Way

A Slower Pace on La Palma — Farming the Sustainable Way

With only about 200,000 visitors each year, La Palma remains one of the least tourist-heavy islands in the Canaries. Tourism plays a far smaller role in the local economy here, and you can feel it immediately. The pace is slower, more relaxed, and refreshingly unhurried — a very pleasant change.   

Today we enjoyed a wonderful visit to Eco Finca Nogales, a 10-hectare organic farm producing bananas, mangoes, avocados, coffee beans, and papayas. Much like the organic winery we visited on Tenerife, the philosophy here is simple: nothing is wasted. 

We were surprised to learn how labour-intensive banana cultivation actually is. After harvest, the remaining plant material is carefully gathered and placed in large concrete fermentation tanks to create nutrient-rich compost for the soil. Even the farm’s eight cows play an essential role — feeding on banana plant remnants, with their manure collected and returned to the fields as natural fertilizer.

Mangos

Coffee beans planted next to bananas for protection from the wind and salt air

Coffee beans

Worker tending to the bananas

Cows consuming plant waste. Manure used to nurture the land

The visit included an impressive tasting of products grown or produced on the farm, complemented by local wine and beer, and coffee brewed from beans grown right there on the property. It was a true farm-to-table experience.

Avocados 

Guava with cheese

Bananas harvested today

Mangoes

What stood out most was how much science underpins the operation. Soil management, crop rotation, fermentation, and sustainability practices are all carefully monitored and applied. It was both educational and inspiring to see agriculture practiced so thoughtfully and intentionally.

Another memorable day on an island that seems determined to do things at its own steady pace.

Carnival Fever in Santa Cruz - Los Indianos

Carnival Fever in Santa Cruz — Los Indianos

Carnival in Santa Cruz de La Palma reaches its peak on February 16 with Los Indianos — one of the island’s most beloved and unique traditions.

The celebration commemorates the return of emigrants who once left La Palma for Cuba and later came home with stories of prosperity and Caribbean influence. Today, that history is honoured in spectacular fashion: a massive, joyous talcum powder “battle” set to Caribbean music, accompanied by rum, sugar cane juice, and plenty of laughter.

Participants dress entirely in white — elegant colonial-style clothing, linen suits, flowing dresses and Panama hats — before dousing one another in clouds of talcum powder. By the end of the day, the streets — and everyone in them — are blanketed in white. It is exuberant, playful, and wonderfully chaotic.

In the days leading up to the main event, the festive spirit is already building. Residents and visitors alike don colourful wigs and imaginative costumes, turning the town into a cheerful preview of what’s to come. I’ve captured a few photos to give you a sense of the atmosphere…

Tomorrow our tour group goes its separate ways, and Fran and I head onward to Portugal.

Another chapter begins.

Carnival in Santa Cruz de La Palma

Lola the parrot at our hotel

Volcanoes, Pastries and a Small-World Surprise - La Palma

Volcanoes, Pastries and a Small-World Surprise — La Palma

Today we explored the dramatic southern tip of La Palma in the Canary Islands, near the village of Fuencaliente, visiting both the San Antonio volcano (which erupted in 1677) and the site of the powerful 2021 Cumbre Vieja eruption.

The crater of San Antonio is remarkably well preserved and fully accessible. Walking along its rim was breathtaking — the scale and stark beauty are difficult to capture in photographs (though we tried!). One image of the 2021 eruption was taken from the nearby town of Fuencaliente at the height of the event — a dramatic reminder of how recently nature reshaped this landscape.

Pic of 2021 eruption taken from village of Fuencaliente

After our volcanic explorations, we stopped in Fuencaliente for coffee and some truly wonderful pastries at a local bakery — a perfect contrast to the morning’s rugged terrain.

Date palm in Fuencaliente 

On the drive back to Santa Cruz de la Palma, we were treated to an extraordinary sight: a blanket of low-lying clouds stretching across the ocean, with the snow-capped peak of Mount Teide on Tenerife rising above them in the distance — some 150 kilometres away. It looked almost surreal, like an island floating in the sky.

Lunch at La Lonja in Santa Cruz was exceptional. We enjoyed it so much that I forgot to take photos — except for the spectacular chocolate lava cake topped with dragon fruit sorbet. That one deserved documentation.

And as if the day hadn’t delivered enough surprises, we discovered during lunch that one member of our group had been my neighbour on Ontario Street in Toronto’s Cabbagetown in the mid-1970s.

What a small world.

What a fantastic day.

Fire Beneath the Surface - La Palma's Volcanic Reality

Fire Beneath the Surface — La Palma’s Volcanic Reality 

Today our tour crossed the island of La Palma to visit the Caños de Fuego volcanic caves — a journey through the island’s dramatic geological story.  

The northern half of La Palma is between two and three million years old and has not experienced volcanic activity for more than 400,000 years. In contrast, the southern half remains geologically active, with significant eruptions recorded in 1949, 1971, and most recently in 2021.

This morning we explored the site of the 1949 eruption, walking through one of the large lava tubes formed as molten rock once flowed beneath a hardened crust. Standing inside that cavern — created entirely by moving lava — was a powerful reminder of the forces that shaped this island. The surrounding landscape still carries ash deposits from the nearby 2021 eruption, layering recent history atop ancient geology.

Helmets on - ready to go

Glad to wear a helmet. I only hit my head twice!

Lunch offered a striking contrast to the morning’s stark terrain. We gathered on the rooftop terrace at La Colonial 25 in Los Llanos for an extraordinary seven-course meal — at least five more courses than we needed, but delicious nonetheless. The views, the food, and the company made for a memorable interlude.

Local village life

Wall mural

In the afternoon, we drove to a vantage point overlooking the 2021 eruption site along the Cumbre Vieja ridge. The scale of devastation is difficult to comprehend. The eruption lasted 85 days, destroying more than 3,000 structures and displacing over 7,000 residents, effectively erasing an entire community.

The lava field we observed is now a vast expanse of hardened rubble, estimated to be 15 to 20 metres deep in places. Officials indicate it may take at least another decade before sections can be safely excavated to reconnect isolated southern communities with the rest of the island. Temperatures within parts of the lava flow reportedly remain as high as 400°C — far too hot for heavy equipment to operate safely.

Lava flows where it wants

All that black stuff is lava

All that black stuff is lava

To witness both the beauty and the destructive power of volcanic activity in a single day was deeply humbling. La Palma is a reminder that landscapes we admire as visitors are, in fact, living and changing — shaped by forces far beyond human control.