Episode Two: Perth, Ottawa, Montreal
As I write this, we've been on the road for one week of our East Coast Adventure.
The first leg of our journey was a visit with good friends Chris and Karen at their lakefront property near Perth, Ontario. We left mid-morning and, instead of taking Highway 401 across the top of Toronto, opted for the 407 ETR toll highway from Milton to its eastern terminus. What a great decision! Traffic was light, making for a very relaxing drive. We then followed Highway 7 all the way to Perth, stopping only once for charging and lunch.
Although Ottawa is their primary home, Chris and Karen purchased this lakefront property 20 years ago. At the time, it featured a run-down log house and garage. Over the years, they engaged a trusted contractor and completely renovated and expanded the property, transforming it into a spectacular year-round family retreat.
Fran, Chris and Karen in front of their log home
"Camped" at Chris & Karen's
Over the next few days, we had a wonderful time catching up with Chris and Karen and their son Andrew. While there were almost biblical amounts of rain, we still managed to fit in a boat ride on the lake, a tour of Perth, dinner in town, several Blue Jays games, the Canada–Qatar soccer match, a day trip to Ottawa to tour the Royal Canadian Mint, marvellous meals prepared by Karen, and many lively conversations.
Karen & Fran (boat ride)
Nestled along the Tay River in eastern Ontario, Perth was founded in 1816 as a strategic military settlement following the War of 1812. Famous for its beautifully preserved 19th-century limestone architecture, it is a charming and historically rich town known for its scenic parks, colourful past, and a few unusual claims to fame.
Karen, Chris & Fran in Perth's picturesque Stewart Park
Perth architecture
The Mammoth Cheese
One of Perth's most famous stories is that of the Mammoth Cheese. In 1892, local cheesemakers created a staggering 22,000-pound wheel of cheddar that was displayed at the 1893 Chicago World's Fair. Today, a replica of the original Mammoth Cheese container serves as a popular photo opportunity and commemorates this remarkable feat of dairy engineering.
What happened to the original cheese, you ask? After its successful exhibition in Chicago, it was purchased by tea magnate Sir Thomas Lipton, shipped to England, and eventually cut into pieces, sold, and eaten in 1894.
Home of a World Champion
Perth is also closely associated with Canadian show-jumping legend Ian Millar and his famous horse, Big Ben. Just outside town lies Millar Brooke Farm, their longtime home. To honour their achievements, Perth erected a beautiful life-sized bronze statue of the pair in Stewart Park.
Big Ben
The World's Largest Kilt Race
Another claim to fame is Perth's Guinness World Record for the largest kilt race. The annual Perth Kilt Run was established in 2010 to celebrate the town's Scottish heritage. During Perth's 200th anniversary celebrations on June 25, 2016, a remarkable 3,670 kilted runners gathered to set the Guinness World Record for the largest kilt race ever held. Impressively, that record still stands today.
True to its heritage, the race begins with a piper-led march from the Crystal Palace to the castle-themed starting line on Basin Lane. Bagpipers line the course, and the festivities conclude with a lively post-race celebration featuring food, music, and refreshments. Chris and Karen have participated in this unique event, where traditional kilts are mandatory attire.
Another highlight of our stay was a day trip to Ottawa to tour the Royal Canadian Mint.
Canada's Royal Canadian Mint began operations on January 2, 1908, as an Ottawa-based branch of Britain's Royal Mint. Today, it operates facilities in Ottawa and Winnipeg. The Winnipeg facility produces all of Canada's circulation coins, while Ottawa serves as headquarters and manufactures collector and investment-grade precious metal coins.
During the tour, we learned about the differences between investor coins and collector coins. Investor coins are purchased primarily for the value of their gold or silver content and are produced in large quantities based on market demand. Collector coins, on the other hand, are issued in limited numbers and command higher prices because of their artistic designs, craftsmanship, and rarity.
One of the most impressive aspects of the tour was seeing the precision and attention to detail that goes into producing these beautiful coins. The Mint's reputation for quality is recognized worldwide, and many foreign countries contract it to manufacture their coinage as well.
Royal Canadian Mint
FIFA Collector Coin
100 oz silver bar at the Royal Canadian Mint
Ottawa, of course, offers many attractions for visitors, most of which we've enjoyed on previous visits. Popular destinations include Parliament Hill, the National Gallery of Canada, the Canadian War Museum, the Rideau Canal, the Canadian Museum of Nature, the Canada Aviation and Space Museum, and the Canadian Museum of History.
Notre Dame Cathedral Basilica in Ottawa
National Gallery of Canada
ByWard Market in Ottawa
Sharing a "classic" Beaver Tail and coffee in ByWard Market
The day before departing for Montreal, we visited the Perth Tesla Supercharger to top up the truck. Unfortunately, all eight chargers were out of service. Later that evening, our mobile app indicated the station was back online, so we returned to try again. Curiously, we continued to receive communication errors between the truck and the chargers and left without charging.
Fortunately, Chris and Karen have a Tesla home charger, which allowed us to bring the battery up to 55%—more than enough to reach the Tesla Supercharger in Brockville. Although other CCS charging stations were available, I wanted to determine whether the previous night's problem had been caused by the truck, the adapter, or the Tesla chargers themselves. Thankfully, everything worked perfectly in Brockville, confirming that the issue was isolated to the Perth station.
Along the route to Montreal, we met up with John and Teresa, the couple we travelled with as far as Thunder Bay last summer. They also tow their Airstream with an EV—a Tesla Model Y. We plan to travel together as far as the Halifax area this summer.
Our campsite near Montreal was at Parc National des Îles-de-Boucherville, a small campground in a beautiful island setting just across the St. Lawrence River from the city. During our Down East Circle Route trip in 2016, we spent several days anchored among these same islands. It remains a remarkably quiet and pastoral setting, despite being located beside Canada's second-largest city.
Approaching Montreal
Our arrival was dramatic. As we approached Montreal, the sky turned black and we drove through a torrential downpour that lasted about 15 minutes. Fortunately, the rain had stopped by the time we reached the campground.
Our rig with the GMC truck plus John & Teresa's rig and their Tesla Y
Enjoying an early morning walk near the campground
Our stay included lunch at the world-famous Schwartz's Deli for smoked meat sandwiches. After 98 years in the same location, the restaurant continues to use its original recipe, preparing everything on-site and serving customers at communal tables beneath walls covered with photographs of famous visitors. I believe it has been nearly 50 years since I last ate at Schwartz's, and remarkably, it looks exactly the same.
Schwartz's and their wall of celebrity photos
Schwartz's Smoked Meat sandwich
Poutine a la Schwartz
Between rainstorms, we visited Mount Royal to enjoy spectacular views of the city. We also spent time strolling through Old Montreal, admiring its distinctive architecture, exploring its restaurants, and enjoying some excellent people-watching.
Enjoying the views from Mt. Royal
Montreal is one of the oldest cities in North America, located on an island in the St. Lawrence River. The area was originally inhabited by Indigenous peoples, including the St. Lawrence Iroquoians. In 1642, French settlers established the settlement of Ville-Marie, which grew into an important fur-trading and missionary centre. Following the Seven Years' War, control passed from France to Britain in 1763, and Montreal developed into a major commercial and industrial hub. During the 19th and early 20th centuries, it became Canada's largest city and economic centre, attracting immigrants from around the world. Today, Montreal is renowned for its French-speaking heritage, diverse population, vibrant arts scene, and status as one of Canada's leading cultural, educational, and technological centres.
Next episode: on to Quebec City.
